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27,000 miles on front tires and still good

At 7000 miles and both fronts are worn on the insides. Any reason I can't swap them (dis-mount and remount so they still turn the same direction)
and get another 7k out of them?

Also, on another thread, someone said if you change the alignment yourself, the electronics doesn't like it. Fact or fiction?
 
At 7000 miles and both fronts are worn on the insides. Any reason I can't swap them (dis-mount and remount so they still turn the same direction)
and get another 7k out of them?

Also, on another thread, someone said if you change the alignment yourself, the electronics doesn't like it. Fact or fiction?
You can rotate the front tires by changing them from rim to rim. BRP recommends it now. I think that is a CYA approach, personally. The uneven wear is almost always a function of worn suspension parts, improper alignment, or a very heavy rider...sometimes a combination of these. If you do the alignment yourself, the steering sensors need to be reset after any adjustment. That will require the dealer hooking the Spyder up to BUDS. The complete procedure for alignment is in the shop manual.
 
At 7000 miles and both fronts are worn on the insides. Any reason I can't swap them (dis-mount and remount so they still turn the same direction)
and get another 7k out of them?

Also, on another thread, someone said if you change the alignment yourself, the electronics doesn't like it. Fact or fiction?


I don't think there's any harm in remounting the tires on the rim to even out the wear.


The way I understand it is if the front end alignment caused the handlebars to move, the steering angle sensor has to be re-zeroed. If your alignment kept the bars in the same location, I think you might be good without having to get a tech to zero the sensor.
 
The RS-S is a tick away from 5,000 miles (almost at patch/pin mileage!) and the tyres look like new. There is almost no wear at all. I am running the same pressures as Lamont. So I guess I got a good alignment right out of the crate. And I have been riding pretty hard. Of course, my Wifde now rides that one so take 100 pounds of load off of them! Heck, I think we'll see very good mileage out of those.

So far so good with 14, but I'm only at 1600 miles, so it's too early to tell... I would say that Wolfen got a hold of a bad tyre...
 
Alignment is critical for good tire wear on everything else with 2 wheels in front so it stands to reason the same applies to the Spyder. The front end components seem to be substantial so I doubt the major cause of misalignment is wear or damage.

Let us know how your front end alignment project goes.


This is looking to be a pain in the :cus:.

Tomberlin Outdoor in Augusta, Georgia wants $77 to do the steering angle reset and a torque offset reset. Columbia Powersports in South Carolina on Two Notch Road wants $84. Columbia Powersports on Fernandina Road says they have to align it again before they can do the reset and want to charge $130.

These guys are doing some serious price gouging for what appears to be a quick process in BUDS:

Click the Setting tab
Click the VCM sub-tab
Click the Reset Steering Angle button
Click the DPS sub-tab
Click the Reset Torque Offset button
 
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This is looking to be a pain in the :cus:.

Tomberlin Outdoor in Augusta, Georgia wants $77 to do the steering angle reset and a torque offset reset. Columbia Powersports in South Carolina on Two Notch Road wants $84. Columbia Powersports on Fernandina Road says they have to align it again before they can do the reset and want to charge $130.

These guys are doing some serious price gouging for what appears to be a quick process in BUDS:

Click the Setting tab
Click the VCM sub-tab
Click the Reset Steering Angle button
Click the DPS sub-tab
Click the Reset Torque Offset button

:yikes: Wow!

When we were in Daytona, Kurt from BRP hooked my wife's Spyder up to BUDS on his laptop and rode it around in the parking area for a little while. He reset her steering in a matter of no time, while ryding the Spyder.

The $84 you were quoted from Columbia Powersports is their standard 1 hour labor rate. When the Fernandina Rd. shop installed my rear tire, they charged me $70. I was expecting it to be more, but since the tire shop couldn't balance it they cut the price. I can actually understand them wanting to do the alignment themselves before resetting the sensors, as they made me sign a waiver before installing my BFG g Force Sport tire for liability reasons. The tech at the Fernandina Rd. location is supposed to be really good. The question is how far do you really want to ryde, and how much do you want to pay, for an alignment and sensor reset?

Best of luck with it.
 
The question is how far do you really want to ryde, and how much do you want to pay, for an alignment and sensor reset?

I'm not going to let someone touch my adjustments after I do the aligment, so I guess I'm stuck with Tomberlin.

I hope I don't own a Spyder when BRP stops supporting them. With no owner access to BUDS, maintenance will then become a serious problem.
 
I'm not going to let someone touch my adjustments after I do the aligment, so I guess I'm stuck with Tomberlin.

I hope I don't own a Spyder when BRP stops supporting them. With no owner access to BUDS, maintenance will then become a serious problem.

Best of luck with Tomberlin, and let us know how it turns out.

I hope something changes way before BRP stops supporting the Spyder, where there is a way for the owners to get their own copy of BUDS. Maybe just a pipe dream, but it sure would make life a whole lot easier for many of us who have to ryde so far to get to a dealer just to have codes reset.
 
I hope something changes way before BRP stops supporting the Spyder, where there is a way for the owners to get their own copy of BUDS. Maybe just a pipe dream, but it sure would make life a whole lot easier for many of us who have to ryde so far to get to a dealer just to have codes reset.

Getting BUDS is easy enough. The difficult part is the USB-to-CAN Interface and the cable from the interface to the Spyder.

Hopefully, there's a Russian hacker out there that also likes Ski-Doo's. ;)
 
This is looking to be a pain in the :cus:.

Tomberlin Outdoor in Augusta, Georgia wants $77 to do the steering angle reset and a torque offset reset. Columbia Powersports in South Carolina on Two Notch Road wants $84. Columbia Powersports on Fernandina Road says they have to align it again before they can do the reset and want to charge $130.

These guys are doing some serious price gouging for what appears to be a quick process in BUDS:

Click the Setting tab
Click the VCM sub-tab
Click the Reset Steering Angle button
Click the DPS sub-tab
Click the Reset Torque Offset button

I just did the front end alignment myself and took it to the dealer to have the resets done . They charged me .23 of an hour 19 bucks + tax.

I think I would look at another dealer that will at least kiss you before he
*&^# you.:yikes::yikes:

If they can reset it and do an alignment for 130 bucks thats one heck of a bargain. I would ask them how they would do the alignment as it is quite involved .
 
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I have about 9K and my fronts are just about bald. I received new tires and Ride-on last week. I'll be replacing them myself, as soon as I find the time to get to the Car-Care facility on Ft. Gordon.

I'll be doing my own alignment, too, but need to find a dealer to hook up BUDS and reset the steering angle and torque offset.

I replaced my tires today. The supervisor at the Car-Care facility initially had doubts they could do a motorcycle, but they had no problems at all. They even let me watch (try to do that at your dealer).

I asked the tech to spin my rims without the tires so I can eliminate any possible source of alignment issues. Even before the machine gave its read-out, we could see the left rim was bent. The right rim was perfect and only needed a few weights. After I left the shop, I found they were too thick and were hitting the brakes. I pulled them off since I'm installing Ride-On.

The self-alignment is on hold pending a new rim.

ETA: Found a set locally from SpyderWolf.
 
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Today I received BRP's position on warranty replacement of worn front tires, in my case, the insides of both are more than half gone at 7000 miles. "BRP does not consider this to be an abnormal wear pattern" Below is the right tire viewed from the front, note the difference between the outer (left side in photo, tread looks new) and inner edges.

They also say the alignment should be checked/adjusted every 6000 miles per the manual, but that's not covered under warranty either and requires a computer reset that I can't do at home.
 
Today I received BRP's position on warranty replacement of worn front tires, in my case, the insides of both are more than half gone at 7000 miles. "BRP does not consider this to be an abnormal wear pattern" Below is the right tire viewed from the front, note the difference between the outer (left side in photo, tread looks new) and inner edges.

They also say the alignment should be checked/adjusted every 6000 miles per the manual, but that's not covered under warranty either and requires a computer reset that I can't do at home.

When did you take that picture of my tire? :roflblack:

Exactly the same...right side too. However since I bought two new Kenda tires you can bet I'm going to rotate the three "good" tires I now have on hand as long as I possible can. As soon as I see tread wear on the right, that one comes out of the rotation and the other two go in the rims. Rinse, repeat. :D
 
Pierrelogic, it can't be a photo of yours because you can see in the photo its a (faster) yellow one!

Anyway, there's obviously a consistent alignment issue with Spyders and I was hoping BRP would acknowlege it, but no such luck.

Back in the 90's, the rear tires on Acura NSXs consistently wore out at 10k miles, so they issued certificates to the owners for a free new set of rear tires AND issued a service bulletin to change the rear toe-in specs. I was hoping BRP would do something similar for their Spyder.
 
Pierrelogic, it can't be a photo of yours because you can see in the photo its a (faster) yellow one!

Anyway, there's obviously a consistent alignment issue with Spyders and I was hoping BRP would acknowlege it, but no such luck.

Back in the 90's, the rear tires on Acura NSXs consistently wore out at 10k miles, so they issued certificates to the owners for a free new set of rear tires AND issued a service bulletin to change the rear toe-in specs. I was hoping BRP would do something similar for their Spyder.

The right one on my yellow Spyder looks a little worse than that, but I also have 12,000 miles on it now. Thanks for doing the leg work on this though. I believe that tire is out of round on mine, but also figured it was to late to pursue it since I already put so many miles on it. :dontknow:

Anyway, it looks like a new set of Bridgestone Potenzas may be in my future now.
 
When did you take that picture of my tire? :roflblack:

Exactly the same...right side too. However since I bought two new Kenda tires you can bet I'm going to rotate the three "good" tires I now have on hand as long as I possible can. As soon as I see tread wear on the right, that one comes out of the rotation and the other two go in the rims. Rinse, repeat. :D

Same here. Right tire on the inside.
 
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