'22 RT starting slowly after sitting on tender - replacement Battery?

[FrogmanDave]

The difference was how it was turning over after I put the new battery in. From Day One when I picked it up, it always seemed like on startup it was turning over kinda slow. With the new battery, it spins right up.

Oh OK, I understand now. I installed the NOCO NLP20 from LaMonster and my Spyder turns over better than it ever has. That Haijiu is pure crap and should have never been used by BRP. The size and especially weight difference between the OEM and NOCO battery is astounding!

 

[MarkN]

For y’all ordering your batteries on line, what do you do with the old ones?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

For y’all ordering your batteries on line, what do you do with the old ones?

Take it to any Auto parts store ..... they are actually worth money or keep it, if you buy from a local source in the future they may want it or add a CORE charge ..... JMHO ... Mike :thumbup:

 

[mmeechan]

Question: the Yuasa instructions online say that after you've added the electrolyte from the bottles that the "...new battery is approximately 75-80% charged. After the “stand” period described in step 6, charge the battery to bring it to a full state of charge. The battery charger used for initial charging should be able to charge at 12.8+ volts for an AGM battery."

so for that last line, do you need a special charger to deliver a constant 12.8 volts or will my Optimate 4 (which analyzes and adjusts the voltage as it charges) do the job?

 

[Mikey]

You're good to go, charge it up!!!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You're good to go, charge it up!!!

:agree: .... I have an Optimate #1.- and love it ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Woodaddict]

Question: the Yuasa instructions online say that after you've added the electrolyte from the bottles that the "...new battery is approximately 75-80% charged. After the “stand” period described in step 6, charge the battery to bring it to a full state of charge. The battery charger used for initial charging should be able to charge at 12.8+ volts for an AGM battery."

so for that last line, do you need a special charger to deliver a constant 12.8 volts or will my Optimate 4 (which analyzes and adjusts the voltage as it charges) do the job?

I would say you missed part on the instructions. Should use a 1 or 2 amp charger for 18 hrs or so. You had a bottle supplied with battery, that when bottle electrolyte is put in and cap pressed on, that is NOT charged to 75-80%. A slow charge is the best way to fully charge a new battery. I have a charger that can change per battery. I put in on AGM.
I just bought a Yuasa, and my instructions were as what I wrote above

 

[jjc54]

When my battery died in 2021 on my 2016 Spyder RTL I went to our local REXX battery and they had a KOYO KTX24HL-BS rated at 22Ah and 350CCA. They put in the acid and charged it overnight. Next day $75 and they replaced it. In my roadster operator's guide the only specification for battery is 12V and a nominal rating of 21Ah. I rarely use a tender as she rarely sits more than 2 weeks without a good exersize. If I do use the tender I put it on a timer set for 2 hrs/day. Heard too many horror stories of cooked batteries.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

When my battery died in 2021 on my 2016 Spyder RTL I went to our local REXX battery and they had a KOYO KTX24HL-BS rated at 22Ah and 350CCA. They put in the acid and charged it overnight. Next day $75 and they replaced it. In my roadster operator's guide the only specification for battery is 12V and a nominal rating of 21Ah. I rarely use a tender as she rarely sits more than 2 weeks without a good exersize. If I do use the tender I put it on a timer set for 2 hrs/day. Heard too many horror stories of cooked batteries.

I don't know which "Battery TENDER" you are using, so a timer may be necessary .... Most folks here use a "Battery MAINTAINER" .... which is designed to ONLY charge if the battery is below a certain level. To put less stress in your life, think about getting one of those! ..... JMHO ...Mike. :thumbup:

 

[mmeechan]

I would say you missed part on the instructions. Should use a 1 or 2 amp charger for 18 hrs or so. You had a bottle supplied with battery, that when bottle electrolyte is put in and cap pressed on, that is NOT charged to 75-80%. A slow charge is the best way to fully charge a new battery. I have a charger that can change per battery. I put in on AGM.
I just bought a Yuasa, and my instructions were as what I wrote above

https://www.yuasabatteries.com/resources/guides/how-to-activate-an-agm-battery/
Step 6.
For batteries with ratings of less than 18 AH, let the battery stand for 20 to 60 minutes. For batteries with higher AH ratings or having the High Performance rating (designated by an “H” in the part number/name), allow the battery to stand for 1 to 2 hours. Yuasa AGM batteries have amp hour (AH) printed on the front of the battery case. The stand or rest period allows the electrolyte to permeate into the plates for optimum performance.

Step 7.
You have nearly completed activating your AGM battery, the remaining step is to give it a full initial charge. After activating with the electrolyte, a new battery is approximately 75-80% charged. After the “stand” period described in step 6, charge the battery to bring it to a full state of charge. The battery charger used for initial charging should be able to charge at 12.8+ volts for an AGM battery.

 

[slhanks004]

I've been running on my YUASA battery for a few months now and no more slow cranking or VSS faults!

 

[jjc54]

I don't know which "Battery TENDER" you are using, so a timer may be necessary .... Most folks here use a "Battery MAINTAINER" .... which is designed to ONLY charge if the battery is below a certain level. To put less stress in your life, think about getting one of those! ..... JMHO ...Mike. :thumbup:

It is a stanley and it shuts off (light goes from yellow to green at 14.13v) but don't know at what voltage it kicks on back on. The $10 timer is only for peace of mind... it doubles for christmas lights. The 4 batteries I have heard about that got fried are from 2 individuals. I can't vouch for the abilities of these individuals but I know that one of the chargers had it's cords cut and thrown away.

 

[FrogmanDave]

It is a stanley and it shuts off (light goes from yellow to green at 14.13v) but don't know at what voltage it kicks on back on. The $10 timer is only for peace of mind... it doubles for christmas lights. The 4 batteries I have heard about that got fried are from 2 individuals. I can't vouch for the abilities of these individuals but I know that one of the chargers had it's cords cut and thrown away.

A battery left on a 'battery tender' or equivalent can and will fry a battery over time. I have fried several batteries in my lifetime by just leaving a battery plugged in all the time. What I've done in the last several years is put one of my machines on the tender for a couple of days every couple of weeks or so. I just alternate between the motorcycles and lawn mower from time to time. That seems to work the best for me. My new lawn mower and Spyder now have lithium ion batteries so tending won't be necessary for those batteries in the future. I'll probably still do it, but it is not necessary. Others will argue but these have been my results over many years of motorcycle ownership. As a side note, one of my good friends owned a motorcycle dealership for 40 years and he saw these same results many, many times during his career.

 

[Woodaddict]

Step 7.
You have nearly completed activating your AGM battery, the remaining step is to give it a full initial charge. After activating with the electrolyte, a new battery is approximately 75-80% charged. After the “stand” period described in step 6, charge the battery to bring it to a full state of charge. The battery charger used for initial charging should be able to charge at 12.8+ volts for an AGM battery.

What is missing from instructions here is charge with 1-2 amp charger for about 18 hrs. That is what my paperwork said (bought new just 1.5 weeks ago). That charger is considered a "slow" charger, and is best for a new battery. Slow charge is better initial charge

 

[ned64]

Had the same trouble the other day, on the 6th, when I went to start my 22 RTL to go on a ride. I tried it on and off for 2 days to see how it would start. Yes, I got the VSS fault, and it wouldn't turn over. Tried to start it again and it started and no fault. Went for a 3-hour ride and it started ok each time. It's been on a tender on and off all winter. Once back home, I got onto Amazon and ordered a new Yuasa battery. Opened the box today and filled it with acid. I will let it sit for a couple of hours and then put it on my charger. Printed on the side and on a sticker on the top of battery, it says - 2.1 amp charger for 5 to 10 hours. I will take out whatever kind of battery is in my Spyder and put in this battery.

You would think BRP would learn things about the Spyders they sell and improve them instead of making some things worse on them.

 

[ned64]

Installed the new Yuasa battery this morning. Spyder started right up. Reset the clock and ready to ride. Oh, if anyone wants that POS battery that BRP started putting in Spyders, if you're close to me you can have it for free... Just kidding, it has already gone to the recycling at the dump. Wouldn't want to give that POS battery to anyone!

 

[RealWing]

Bought the Yuasa YTX24HL-BS Battery to replace the original Haijiu 300 cca in my 2022 RTL before it left me stranded. Adding the acid is very easy and ensures you have a fresh battery. Left it about 4 hrs then charged at about 0.8 amps on my Optimate 3 slow charger.

 

[greer]

Folks, if you have a bike with that off-brand junk factory battery, I'd encourage you to replace it proactively. Mine suddenly went belly up in the Yukon Territory last year with replacements few and far between. Finally found one at NAPA in Whitehorse at the tune of $250.

Sarah

 

[Poppie65]

For those of you getting the VSS faults, where are they displayed when they show up?

 

[Poppie65]

I'm experiencing something similar to the original post, with some noteworthy differences.
23 RT S2S, purchased in Oct 2023. Drove it about 250 miles before winterizing. Kept it on the Optimate Maintainer through winter.

My buddy and I installed four front end light kits in Dec. We used the "Plug & Play" harness from Lamonster for the fender and mirror turns signal kits, while the Bright Rider frunk light and Double-AA lights were powered up from the Aux port under the starboard side body panel.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...4-What-did-you-do-to-your-Spyder-today/page71 (post 1774)
I installed the light kit on the upper storage trunk last month, also using the supplied "Plug & Play".

On Tuesday of this week I pulled the Sypder out of the corner, did a T-CLOC inspection, adjusted air pressures, removed the rag from the exhaust pipes, geared up and started it up for the first ride of the year. It cranked much slower than I expected after having it on the maintainer for most of the off season, but it fired up and ran very well. I put probably 50 miles or so before returning home with intensions of having it ready for my wife to ride when she got home from work. I shut it down, then about 10 minutes later went to fire it back up and it barely turned, over acting very much like a dead battery and did not start. I did not see any codes displayed during my attempts to restart the engine.

I pulled the Haijiu battery out and put it on my full size charger, which showed that it had 100% charge and 13.5 volts. The next morning I came onto the forum to look for posts with similar experiences, and found numerous mentions of low quality batteries. I came to the conclusion that this must be my problem. Since we have plans to ride the bike on Saturday I was eager to get this resolved ASAP, so I went to Battery Plus and picked up a new battery, grabbing the only one they had in the store that matched the size and specs. I'm sure it's not a high quality replacement, but I bought it and put it on the maintainer overnight then checked it after work today. It showed 100% charge, 13.6 Volts. I installed it, tried the start the engine and got the exact same results as the day before. I mean the EXACT same. Verrrry slow crank. Still didn't see any codes.

What are the damn chances that two fully charged batteries would produce the exact same results. I'd think that if this problem was in fact battery related then the engine rotation would surely be slightly different after installing the 2nd battery. So frustrating. I called the dealer, the next open timeslot they have isn't until April 3rd and I've locked that down, but sure would like to figure this out way before then. Anyone have ideas?