2024 RTL with 26k - after riding 75 plus miles in warm wx, then parking on a hard surface in the sun, 80 plus degrees for 1 hr plus, the bike will not start! If it's pushed under a shady covering and upper body panels removed, seat raised, gas cap removed, and waiting approx. 1 hr, the bike will cool somewhat then start and seems to run fine. This has occurred four times in last 6 months. The first time it occurred, another Spyder had exactly the same problem and used the same solution to restart. Anyone else have this problem? If so, what was your fix? My dealer has no idea/solution...
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2024 will not start after long ride then parked for 1 hr - Anyone else? What fix?
- Thread starter gkerrs
- Start date
Weird! What gave you the idea of removing body parts to make it start? 80 degrees is not hot. 110 is hot. Try giving it a "very quick" shot of starting fluid directly into the air filter intake. If it fires, then I'd say it's a fuel issue. I don't recall ever hearing or reading about this kind of problem before. Someone hopefully is going to chime in here with a solution. Sounds like a vaperlock that occurred on older vehicles, but that was back in the days of carburetors. Good luck finding the cause and let us know what it was.
CloverHillCrawler
Well-known member
Was it Overfilled before this happened??
I'm not saying this is definitely the cause, all of the posts above are good value and worth considering, but here's another one that many forget/ignore, until they've exhausted every other potential issue, when it should be amongst the very FIRST things you do on a Spyder that fails to crank. At the risk of sounding more'n just a bit like a broken record, Load Test the battery when it's warm and look for a cranking voltage of at least 12 volts!! 
While higher temperatures should increase the % of it's rated max voltage that a battery can supply when compared to what it can supply at lower temps closer to 0°C, those same higher temps that encourage us to go riding, also shorten the potential life of the battery!
And from about 2020 on, the cheap arsed excuses for batteries that BRP installed at the factory and issued as replacements were barely able to keep cranking the motor for too much longer than about 6 months anyway!! 
So if your battery is one of those piss-ant 300 CCA Haiju excuses for a battery with minimal capacity and less longevity, and your Spyder is getting close to or is already more than 6 months old, chances are pretty good that your Spyder's battery is no longer up to cranking a warm, high compression motor, AND starting up all the computers, sensors, changing gears to Neutral, etc all at the same time!!
And then there's also the increase in resistance in all the wires and computers etc that happens as the temp rises/things warm up that you need to factor in, too; so a battery that isn't too great to start out with and can barely start your extremely power hungry Spyder in mild conditions when it's brand new and fully charged anyway, rapidly starts to become increasingly incapable of doing the job!! 
So Load Test it, and don't accept a report of 'it's good' from a dealer - ask to see the voltage while it's cranking, and if it's not maintaining at or very near to 12 volts while it's cranking, get an new battery, only make sure it's got AT LEAST 350 CCA & 21 A/hr capacity; that it's been initialised properly (it takes about an hour for the 'acid' to soak into all the places it's needed if your battery has a 'BS' in or on the end of it's part number); and that it gets charged properly before installation - which means it hasta spend AT LEAST 8 hours on charge on a proper battery charger, NOT just on a battery tender or a maintainer!! If you fail to get/do all this, or if you blindly take the dealer's/retailer's word that it's been done, then expect to need to replace the battery again within a year or maybe two!!
Good Luck!
While higher temperatures should increase the % of it's rated max voltage that a battery can supply when compared to what it can supply at lower temps closer to 0°C, those same higher temps that encourage us to go riding, also shorten the potential life of the battery!
And from about 2020 on, the cheap arsed excuses for batteries that BRP installed at the factory and issued as replacements were barely able to keep cranking the motor for too much longer than about 6 months anyway!! So if your battery is one of those piss-ant 300 CCA Haiju excuses for a battery with minimal capacity and less longevity, and your Spyder is getting close to or is already more than 6 months old, chances are pretty good that your Spyder's battery is no longer up to cranking a warm, high compression motor, AND starting up all the computers, sensors, changing gears to Neutral, etc all at the same time!!
And then there's also the increase in resistance in all the wires and computers etc that happens as the temp rises/things warm up that you need to factor in, too; so a battery that isn't too great to start out with and can barely start your extremely power hungry Spyder in mild conditions when it's brand new and fully charged anyway, rapidly starts to become increasingly incapable of doing the job!! So Load Test it, and don't accept a report of 'it's good' from a dealer - ask to see the voltage while it's cranking, and if it's not maintaining at or very near to 12 volts while it's cranking, get an new battery, only make sure it's got AT LEAST 350 CCA & 21 A/hr capacity; that it's been initialised properly (it takes about an hour for the 'acid' to soak into all the places it's needed if your battery has a 'BS' in or on the end of it's part number); and that it gets charged properly before installation - which means it hasta spend AT LEAST 8 hours on charge on a proper battery charger, NOT just on a battery tender or a maintainer!! If you fail to get/do all this, or if you blindly take the dealer's/retailer's word that it's been done, then expect to need to replace the battery again within a year or maybe two!!
Good Luck!
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Well, I didn't interpret this as a fail to crank issue, I interpreted this as a "cranks fine but fails to start and run" issue. So, for the OP, maybe you can clarify this. But, as long as I'm here, if we re-define this, to not just as a hot start problem, but as a HEAT SOAK starting problem, then it opens up a few possibilities. But first, yes, have your dealer open a case with BRP. If they don't open a case and don't get direction from the mother-ship on how to spend their time troubleshooting this, then they don't get paid to do this as warranty work. And they are not going to care that much when they're not getting paid, when the paying jobs are waiting in the corner of the shop.
The attached picture shows the fuel system diagram. Yes, it's a fuel injected system, not carburated. But, it's not a full return system, meaning that fuel doesn't flow all the way to the engine and back. That portion of fuel tubing that is downstream of the Y-fitting, is a dead end leg that feeds the fuel rail and injectors. The only flow is what the injectors are demanding. So, in this case, that portion of the line may be susceptible to vapor locking or binding. And also, that portion of line has an extra layer of sleeving around the outside of it. Maybe to act as insulation, I don't know. But, it could be checked in order to see if everything is as it should be. But, I agree that 80 degrees seems hardly hot enough.
However, a more likely scenario is a bad Purge Valve that is not fully closing every time that the engine is shut off. What happens is that fuel tank vapors seep through the leaking Purge Valve and saturate the intake manifold. This displaces the oxygen. So, while there is plenty of flammable vapors in the engine intake, there is no oxygen to support combustion. So, you crank and crank and crank, and finally give up before the intake can suck in enough fresh air to fire it up. After everything cools down, and in your case also opening the gas cap, the vapors dissipate through the throttle body or condense, and it starts up just fine. In a heat soak starting scenario, a Purge Valve replacement is usually the first thing tried on any vehicle. (happened to one of my own) I think your dealer could easily justify replacing the purge valve under warranty. A leaking fuel injector can cause a similar effect.
Back in October, a fellow SL in Oz was experiencing a similar problem on a 2024. They were questioning if the fuel pump was running properly after a heat soak situation because they couldn't hear it. After the bike has been shutdown for a few minutes, put the Kill Switch in Stop. Turn on the key and let all of that startup noise finish, then pop the Kill Switch to Run. You might have to get your ear right down there under the seat. It should always run for three seconds no matter how hot it is. That thread ended without a resolution. Your dealer could do a fuel pressure check easy enough, also.
Sorry so long on this. Good Luck. (26K on a 2024. Well Done)
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That's correct, engine cranks fine but won't start. Two year old Yusa battery, I also carry a battery pack which I attached to supplement battery, no help. Bike had 1/2 tank of mid grade fuel containing ethanol, will try starting fluid. I suspected something was hot/vapor locked, pushed bike under shade tree, removed upper body panels, raised seat, and removed gas cap to aid in cooling. First time this happened was last August, ambient temp was 90° plus and bike was parked on asphalt with no shade. Another Spyder in our group had the same problem, cranks, but no start. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
EdMat
Well-known member
If its a purge valve problem as Snowbelt Spyder mentioned above, I wonder if using the flooded engine start procedure would work to purge the system faster? It would move the maximum amount of air thru the cylinders in the shortest time. Simply roll the throttle to full and hold it there while cranking. This opens the intake butterflies but does not supply fuel or spark, quickly clearing everything out.
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