2022 Work Period - My Spyder

[Rednaxs60]

Have a list of work to be done before the touring season hits. My other thread: Initial Maintenance and Work from when I bought the Spyder last year is getting a bit long in the tooth - https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?139335-Initial-Maintenance-and-Work The second is on suspension: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?141448-Suspension

My list for February/March:

Dash Mount - thinking the TricLED - has 3 - 1" ram mount balls and 5 locating postions.
Accessory fuse block
Trailer wiring harness install
Trailer connector install
Front/rear shock spring change
Front trunk release check - spring action no longer works
Rear tire replacement - original 2014 tire still on
Oil/filter change will be done in May
Garmin Zumo 660 install
Quadlock cell phone bracket install

Probably more but this is a good start.

 

[RICZ]

Re the frunk latch.....I attached a plastic sheathed wire to the latch (did the seat too) and NEVER use the key. I have see too many failures here. I slipped a number 10 spring over the latch pin on the lid to help it pop open.
Re shocks......That treatise in that second link was one helluva lot of overthink when the shock mfrs already did the work for us. I was marinating over which way to go shock-wise and a forum member had a pair of slightly used front Elka Stage 2 for sale at a "I can't pass this up price" and I snagged them. Got them, called Elka and they gave me settings, I installed them and HOLY FLAT CORNERS Batman, they bumped the yee haw factor way up. Even 2 up, our F3L corners flat.
FYI....My weight with gear is 165# and the settings are; spring compressed 10mm / rebound, 12 clicks counter clockwise from the clockwise stop.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Parts are coming in.

Have trailer wiring harness.
Have the original Garmin Zumo 660LM - never been installed, brand new
New accessory fuse block arrived
Accessory fuse block relay on hand
New shock springs on hand - 300 lb-in for front, 600 lb-in for rear
Quadlock cell phone bracket ready for install

Waiting on the dash mount. Have to locate position for the accessory fuse block.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Ordered a couple of 36 mm wrenches fro rear wheel removal and oil filter cap. It's a two pack so the price for each is $18.00 CDN, least expensive I could find up here. Have a spare in case one breaks. Will be able to use with my torque wrench as a multiplier. Here's the CA web page: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09K4H23CS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Rednaxs60]

Rear tire ordered, going to use the Kenda Kanine and use Counteract balancing beads. Have ordered a Kriket for the drive belt tension. Just about everything on hand.

 

[Little Blue]

Rear Tire

Rear tire ordered, going to use the Kenda Kanine and use Counteract balancing beads. Have ordered a Kriket for the drive belt tension. Just about everything on hand.

Will you remove the rear tire or have someone else do the work? If you do this work I would install a better Tire.
Kenda Kanine is a terrible idea for a Tire. Just my .02 cents.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Still have the original Kenda tire from 2014 on the Spyder with lots of tread remaining, and 18K Kms on it. Could probably keep using, but hoping to do a cross Canada tour this summer to Newfoundland and back. Want new rubber all round. Put Kumho Solas tires on the front last year. Went to 2 tire places, and the Kanine is what is available. Will know how it lasts and performs after this summer tour.

Will be taking the tire off and taking in for tire replacement. Closest Spyder dealer is just over an hour north and I would have to leave the Spyder there. Two trips for one tire install, not.

Tire install will be part of the shock spring upgrade, and other changes I want to make.

 

[RICZ]

There are so many better tires out there for much less money, so why are you going with Krappy Kendas?

 

[cptjam]

If you make an appointment, and remove the wheel yourself, it’s a one shot deal.

 

[Rednaxs60]

There are so many better tires out there for much less money, so why are you going with Krappy Kendas?

Went to a couple of tire places here in Victoria, BC on Vancouver Island, and the one tire that could be had was the Kenda Kanine. We don't have the choice you fellows south of the border have, and the cost is significantly different. I'll see how it wears becasue our trip this year is to Newfoundland and back, probably some 15K Kms, not a bad run for two months.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Been stripping the Spyder to do work.

The trailer wiring harness is plug and play. Once I relaized the load on the signals was because the side mirrors were off, put the mirrors back on and all is well.

Rear tire has been removed to take to the shop for install of new tire. I had ordered two 36 mm wrenches, but only one came in the package, have returned to sender. Ordered a low profile 36 mm socket to use, will be here by end week. To remove the wheel nut, used a crescent/adjustable wrench and adjustable pliers to hold the other end. It was the original tire from the factory so the wheel has never been off, did a lot of hammering on the crescent/adjustable wrench. My 1/2 drive torque wrench only goes to 150 ft-lbs. Looking for one that will do the trick.

Front shock springs have been changed to 300 in-lb springs. Set the preload at 1 cm. The rear shock spring came with a 525 in-lb spring, I upgraded to a 700 in-lb spring. The difference was the 525 in-lb spring is 6 inch in length, the 700 in-lb spring is 7 inch in length, lots of room either way. replaced the 700 in-lb spring with a 600 in-lb 6 inch long spring and set the preload at 0.5 cm. My Spyder has the ACS system so the preload is not crucial. Be about a week before I get the Spyder back on the road to trial the new setup.

To do the front shock setup, will be using the "A" arms for the guide. Will set the ACS at the lowest level, have the "A" arms level to the ground with myself on the Spyder. If I have to use more than 1 cm preload on the front to achieve a level "A" arm, will consider changing the shock springs to a 350 or 400 in-lb spring. Doing this in consultation with M2 shocks.

Installed the SAE connector at the rear of the Spyder. Will be looking at the 12 VDC connector in the rear trunk to determine if it is live at all times or not. If it is, I will tie into that circuit with the SAE connector and use it for passenger accessories, and battery tender.

Still looking for a place to install the new accessory fuse block.

The trailer connector came in. Install this week as well.

Dash mount bracket installed.

Broke one bolt that holds the belt tensioner on. Drilling it out, and hopefully be able to chase the threads and reuse, otherwise may just drill out and use a nut/bolt to secure.

Took the belt guard off, a royal PITA. Hopefully won't have to do too often.

While the rear wheel is off, going to fix the ACS ride position senor arm securing bolt. Don't like having to get a small vice grip in there to undo the bolt. The upper securing arrangement for this arm is a nut/bolt, so why can't the lower securing arangement not be the same.

More to follow.

 

[BertRemington]

Rivet nuts are your friend

Took the belt guard off, a royal PITA. Hopefully won't have to do too often.

I replaced the rear two bolt/nuts with machine screws into rivet nuts. Makes belt tension checks easy.

 

[Rednaxs60]

I replaced the rear two bolt/nuts with machine screws into rivet nuts. Makes belt tension checks easy.

Excellent idea.

 

[Rednaxs60]

More work done today. Rear wheel/brake/ and some panels on. Removed the rear wheel like IdahoMtnSpyder - of "It's yours - OWN IT" fame. Worked well, have not had to do any adjustments yet. The Kriket belt tensioner worked very well. Tire off the ground, came in at 140-150 lbs. Acceptable.

Had to go to the local hydraulic shop for the o-ring on the rear rim where the drive belt gear fits. A bit smaller but will do the job. Have contacted the local dealer and will pick up a new set of bolts/nuts that hold the rotor extension on, and a new o-ring for the rear drive sprocket.

Found out that I do not like the OEM yellow paste, quite messy and a PITA to work with. Cleaqned most of the bolts and nuts that I took off and used a bit of blue loctite.

Waiting for the socket I ordered before I can torque the rear axle nut. Bought a 36 mm wrench, has a 16/17 inch throw, does the job.

To put the drive belt guard on, used extruded nuts. When these are new, don't want to come off. Pics attached.

Tomorrow will start the Spyder and check belt alignment. Will start on the accessory wiring.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Getting the Spyder back together. Wheel on and aligned, belt tension set.

Trailer hitch connector installed, neat install, no Irish pendants hanging out.

Looking for real estate to install the accessory fuse block. Think I have a spot in front of the ECU on the left side. Longer bolts/screws with rubber washers, plexiglass cover, Fuse block and relay mounted with good double sided tape.

 

[Rednaxs60]

While I'm doing the rear wheel work, bought new rear brake pads when I got the Spyder. Did the fronts but not the rear. Touring this summer cross Canada so going to change out.

The OEM service manual indicates that to retract the caliper piston, rotate the parking brake lever to retract the piston - expect this to be counter clockwise. Have used the old fashioned way of needle nose pliers, may even get the proper tool to do the job one day. Anyone use the recommended service manual procedure?

 

[Peter Aawen]

While I'm doing the rear wheel work, bought new rear brake pads when I got the Spyder. Did the fronts but not the rear. Touring this summer cross Canada so going to change out.

The OEM service manual indicates that to retract the caliper piston, rotate the parking brake lever to retract the piston - expect this to be counter clockwise. Have used the old fashioned way of needle nose pliers, may even get the proper tool to do the job one day. Anyone use the recommended service manual procedure?

On your 2014, I don't think that 'rotating the parking brake lever' method will work! :dontknow:

I believe that method only applied to the NON Brembo brakes on the pre-2013 Spyders; so for 2013 & on Spyders, you need to use needle-nosed pliers or some other tool inserted into the holes in the top of the piston to 'screw' or wind the piston back in! . That's certainly been the case on my 2013 RT that's fitted with the Brembo brakes, and also on every other 2013 & on Spyder that I've looked at/replaced the brake pads on! :thumbup:

If you're doing the brakes yourself, just make sure you don't activate the Park brake while the caliper isn't fitted correctly over the disc with pads in place, or you might find it reeeaaaly difficult to wind the piston back in! And when you're removing the caliper, watch carefully to see where the shim (if there is one!) is fitted under the speed sensor as you undo that - cos there's a good chance ithat any shim/s will drop out as you remove the securing screw, but it's pretty important to get any shim/s back in their correct position, cos they are how the spacing/flying height of the speed sensor is established - get that shim/s in the wrong place, and the incorrect gap can trigger all sorts of annoying errors & might even trigger limp mode! . Oh, and don't turn the rear wheel with the ignition on while the fronts are still on the ground & not moving, cos that too can trigger all sorts of warnings & limp mode.... :cus:

Those errors & limp modes are usually easily fixed simply by buttoning everything up correctly & then (gently/carefully??) ryding your Spyder for 50 or so metres with a bit of turning & braking thrown in, but still, it's easy enough to avoid them altogether if you pay attention to putting the shim/s back in their correct place & you avoid turning/running the back wheel without turning the fronts at the same speed - just keep the ignition off until the job is done, and don't run the engine until all three wheels are back on the ground! :lecturef_smilie:

 

[Rednaxs60]

Peter - thanks for the answer. Had another look at the rear brake and I don't think the parking brake lever can be turned. Thanks for the info on the error issue. It's come to the fore. Was doing good until I increased the engine RPM. No error codes when at idle. The OEM service manual comments on this as well, cautions about checking belt alignment at idle only - oops.

Have the BUDS software so will be attaching and clearing the brake error code(s) before taking the Spyder out for a road test. Going to take the caliper off, measure the piston hole distance and check with the local go to store, Princess Auto - Canada's version of US Harbor Freight, otherwise needle nose pliers it is.

The shim under the ABS sensor is a one piece plastic spacer. No rear brake parts left over.

Received the 36 mm low profile socket today. It's what I ordered, but I did not take into consideration the axle sticking out. May order a deeper one. Purchased a 1/2 inch drive 20 to 250 ft-lb torque wrench - got a very good deal. Been a long time since I have torqued to 160 ft-lbs. Almost seems like I'll break/strip the nut before I hear a click. When I was in our Navy, we were taught to listen to the 'ring' of the spanner we used to tighten large nuts on high pressure steam equipment.

Thanks again.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Good work day. GPS mount and wiring installed. Cell phone dash mount and a voltmeter/USB connector installed. Using 6" RAM mount extenders. Installed a HELA DIN connector for my heated gear.

Wiring not complete, but have rationalized the requirement. Won't be adding an accessory fuse block. The HELA connector can be powered at all times, only used when I wear my heated clothing or for a battery tender. The SAE connector at the pilion position will be live all the time, only used for the passenger heated clothing and a battery tender. Nothing will be plugged in to these two connectors permanently. The voltmeter/USB connector has an ON/OFF switch, no worries here. GPS is on its own circuit.

Had to extend the GPS power wires because of wire routing issues. Completed and tucked away nicely.

During this work, parts were coming off or just moved out of the way to get the wire routing done. Windscreen off, right head light undoen and pulled out of the way.

To wrap the wires that I added I use TESA cloth tape. Find it to be better than the plastic electrical tape and more flexible.

Glove box undone and moved back. Had to do this to make the install of the HELA/DIN connector easier. Information on removal of the glove box and centre console is found in the 2013 OEM Service manual for this Spyder.

At a point where parts are now going back on.

Have attached some pics of the work done. The pic of the little plastic pieces are used to secure plastic wire tie wraps. All black and blend in nicely.

Work over the next few days is to change rear brake pads, clear the brake failure codes, install panels and get the plate sticker.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Went for a ride up island to the Spyder dealer, good day for a ride. Needed some small bits, screws and such to put the Spyder panels back on, also needed a good excuse for a morning ride.

Got the wiring completed and tested. All's good. Did use the fuse block for the wiring install. Reason for this is to keep the fuses in one spot and not have in-line fuses in various spots. It is in a very accessible spot.

Installed the fuse block in front of the ECU on the left side. Used the same screw holes, 1/4" spacers to keep the fuse block away from the ECU for air flow. Should work fine. Only concern may be water ingress, will monitor.

On to the rear brakes.