2021 Spyder RT Limited- Left Front Running Lamp(s) out, need help troubleshooting

[shakin_jake]

Crappy pic, I know but, as the post title states, the left front running lamp(s) is/are out (not lit)

Jake likes to ride but he isn’t that swift when it comes to troubleshooting electrical issues, so how to proceed repairing?

Not interested in taking it to the local can’t am dealer. Want to repair on my own, with a little help from my friends (apologies in advance to Joe Cocker=


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

 

[Isopedella]

1st up I would pull off the connector at the rear of the lamp to check if there is power, I would use a multi meter for this.

If there is power probably the lamp is stuffed.

 

[Bfromla]

warranty, electrical headaches can be the worst, hopefully just loose connection, let them find out (any dealer)

 

[Isopedella]

My closest dealer is 1 hr away. They were appalling when I made some inquiries about a headlight and stuff.

If I need Dealer help I would drive the other direction for 2 1/2 hrs.
They were awesome on the phone and I got it sorted myself on their advice.

 

[shakin_jake]

~~~yes, roger that, check for power at the lamp connection. I’ve never attempted to gain access to this connection. Does anyone have instructions as to how to access the back of this connection? Or, another way to put this question, is there a manual available for sale that describes step by step, how to access the back of this lamp? I would be eager to purchase such a manual, if one exists


As an aside, when I rode Honda motorcycles, Honda motor company sold manuals with very good instructions with step by step information on how to carry out virtually any repair. I had such a manual for my 93’ Honda ST1100 and the 2002 Honda Silverwing Does such an animal exists for Can Am Spyders through the years?

I’d also welcome anyone that can explain the procedure, how to gain access to the back of the running lamp I’m having trouble with. Thanking any and all in advance!







Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

 

[tntnj]

Lamonster had a video on how to remove the panels. You will have to remove the to get access to the light.

 

[Mikey]

Well Jake, the first thing I would do before you start you trip down your rabbit hole, is get those starter fire blocks out of the space you're going to do the work in, that's because if things don't go well you may put a pile of them under your bike and start them!!:yikes: Then I would just sit back and look at the bike and break out the screwdriver and work light and start chipping away at the problem, man put it together and you can take it apart, it's just nuts and bolts! Good luck!! All else fails use your warrantee that you payed for!

 

[shakin_jake]

@tnt- I’ll poke around LaMonster’s site later to look for the video you mentioned. I’d still prefer to have a well written paper manual to work from, if such an animal exists for my Can Am Spyder. Being a car guy in another life growing up in Detroit there was a vendor who worked out of his home that supplied written paper manuals for virtually any car made. I always bought two of the same manuals from him. One was for the shop and I didnt mind getting the pages dirty nor greasy. The other manual was kept clean in my living room

@Mike-E. No chance of the fire starters congregating into a pile under the Spyder. The fire starters are used strictly with my Masterbuilt 560 gravity fed smoker grill, to cook vittles to eat. That said, and it isn’t my intention to turn this into a BBQ thread but, I only came into possession of those fire starters as i re-ordered another brand from Amazon, and they sent me these instead. I don’t care for how they light up lump charcoal in the afoirementioned smoker/grill, though they’re quite satisfactory used to light Kingsford blue. I also have a Rec Tec wood pellet smoker i prefer to use when smoking packer briskets & the occasional rack of pork ribs

The main reason you dont see Jake posting threads adding toys to his Spyder, he’s spending all his farkle dollars in order to support buying snake river farms gold grade Wagyu packer briskets. I’m trying to keep this addiction in check by limiting my packer brisket purchasers to one every other month=


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in awhile

 

[Isopedella]

Im on the same page as I too prefer the books. I do find watching the how to video very helpful. You do have to sort the wheat from the chaff with a few of them but the Lamonster ones seem ok and I have got a few good tips watching them. Worth a look I reckon prior to starting. Hopefully it may just be a loose connection.

On my F3 I can easily remove the frunk insert as its 4 pushpins from memory. You may be able to access the back of the light in the cavity in there. But I am guessing.

Cant help thinking thats its new and , well if a new light is required it wont be 50c. But thats up to you at the end of the day.

 

[spyderdave]

I have a 2020 RTL and a service manual, but you might be a little dissappointed in what follows.

That light is called a "signature light"; it is, as you probably know, an LED display rather than a bulb. I believe the part number to be 710006812 & it's about $140.00. Two screws, from the back hold it into the formed plastic nose of your RTL; if you if you search an OEM parts website you can check it out.

The service manual that I have is a downloaded version; I could not find a copy in print at the time. This manual describes the procedure for testing the function of the signature light circuit from the connector plug under the right side "fang panel" where the frunk module joins the main frame; if it fails testing, the manual simply states, "repair circuit" (nice, huh!) I see no step by step description of how to get to that light in the lighting section and the body panel section only gives only details how to remove the entire frunk module. All I could find is an exploded view of that module; nothing that serves as guidance.

In looking at your pic, it appears that the other signature light is functional, so I would say any testing is moot. My guess is that the display is bad, in and of itself. If you want to trouble yourself and foot the bill for what should be a BRP "warranty covered" part; best wishes.

 

[shakin_jake]

Im on the same page as I too prefer the books. I do find watching the how to video very helpful. You do have to sort the wheat from the chaff with a few of them but the Lamonster ones seem ok and I have got a few good tips watching them. Worth a look I reckon prior to starting. Hopefully it may just be a loose connection.

On my F3 I can easily remove the frunk insert as its 4 pushpins from memory. You may be able to access the back of the light in the cavity in there. But I am guessing.

Cant help thinking thats its new and , well if a new light is required it wont be 50c. But thats up to you at the end of the day.

~~~There may be a you tube video, I just thought about that after reading your reply. I’m fairly busy with work so I’ll check later


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

 

[shakin_jake]

I have a 2020 RTL and a service manual, but you might be a little dissappointed in what follows.

That light is called a "signature light"; it is, as you probably know, an LED display rather than a bulb. I believe the part number to be 710006812 & it's about $140.00. Two screws, from the back hold it into the formed plastic nose of your RTL; if you if you search an OEM parts website you can check it out.

The service manual that I have is a downloaded version; I could not find a copy in print at the time. This manual describes the procedure for testing the function of the signature light circuit from the connector plug under the right side "fang panel" where the frunk module joins the main frame; if it fails testing, the manual simply states, "repair circuit" (nice, huh!) I see no step by step description of how to get to that light in the lighting section and the body panel section only gives only details how to remove the entire frunk module. All I could find is an exploded view of that module; nothing that serves as guidance.

In looking at your pic, it appears that the other signature light is functional, so I would say any testing is moot. My guess is that the display is bad, in and of itself. If you want to trouble yourself and foot the bill for what should be a BRP "warranty covered" part; best wishes.

~~~thanks for the info. I’m not concerned about purchasing the light, if it turns out to be a dead light display. I bought my Spyder from Cycle Zone Power Sports, the Topeka Kansas Can Am dealer, the sales manager there has always treated me fairly (I bought ny Ryker from him too). I have an idea the part, if defective would be handled under warranty. My only concern is if the part is available, if it needs to be replaced, what with all the supply issues we hear of

Fortunately, this errant light is strictly a cosmetic issue. If it needs replacing and if I have to wait, at least it isn’t keeping me off the saddle


Life is beautiful!


Jake
Reddick Fla.