2021 Rear Trunk Lock

[rhallanger]

happen to see a youtube video on the Spyder rear trunk.. it doesn't lock when you lock it.. I tried mine.. and it really doesn't lock..

anyone know if BRP has put out a recall? Not that it is a safety thing.. guess I am wondering how many 21's have this problem..

Rick.:dontknow:

 

[SpyderStephen]

The dealer can correct the situation by adjusting the locking stud. My April 21 RTL case locks and doesn't open unless using the key. I didn't know there was a problem until it was a topic of discussion at Spyders in the Ozarks.

 

[Lawman]

Shawn Smoak talked about it on his youtube channel. An easy fix

https://youtu.be/MVq0_JgBZXU

 

[Lawman]

Shawn Smoak talked about it on his youtube channel. An easy fix

https://youtu.be/MVq0_JgBZXU

Here is part 2. https://youtu.be/2ymUwJnCNrs

 

[RICZ]

As you saw in the videos, the latched are very adjustable. But then, many have the problem with the "open trunk lid" dash warning. I have seen and even tried various mechanical fixes that worked, only for a while. Then I devised a simple fix that has worked permanently, so far. I cut a piece of soft foam into a brick shape large enough to fill the cavity above the switch. Now the operating pin on the lid gently compresses the foam, activating the switch without harming it.

 

[Drwerner]

Crap! I just tested my trunk and it opens easily locked or not. I attempted to relocate the pins and the slot they are in is not long enough for me to move them forward enough to get the latch to lock on to them. Yet another Can Am quality issue!! So, do I drive an ho0ur to the dealer to have them fix it or enlarge the holes on a brand new $30k bike? :banghead:

 

[RICZ]

So, do I drive an ho0ur to the dealer to have them fix it or enlarge the holes on a brand new $30k bike?

I can't count the mods I made to my bike to make things fit/work better. But then, I do not trust guys with tools and my things. I had a machine repair biz for over 40 years and the work I saw that others did, and charged much more, was frightening.
I bought my F3L new and needed the floorboards moved before leaving. I'm known at the dealer and they allowed me to spectate. The "tech" doing the work was a terrible klutz and I had to correct him often. And worse, the store's owner was standing by and said nothing. The more I corrected him, the klutzier he got. It will be a cold day in hell before I go back there for any service. So I do my own. Thanks to the gurus on this forum, I can do my own servicing and fixes.

 

[Drwerner]

I can't count the mods I made to my bike to make things fit/work better. But then, I do not trust guys with tools and my things. I had a machine repair biz for over 40 years and the work I saw that others did, and charged much more, was frightening.
I bought my F3L new and needed the floorboards moved before leaving. I'm known at the dealer and they allowed me to spectate. The "tech" doing the work was a terrible klutz and I had to correct him often. And worse, the store's owner was standing by and said nothing. The more I corrected him, the klutzier he got. It will be a cold day in hell before I go back there for any service. So I do my own. Thanks to the gurus on this forum, I can do my own servicing and fixes.

Hi RICZ, I totally get it and do most of my own work as well. I installed all the farkles in my sig on my bike and it was really pretty easy. That said, when I had my Goldwing, it came with a faulty parking brake mechanism that left me stranded. I had to remove it. It was clearly bent from the factory (bike had 4 miles on it). I took the part in for warranty and they rejected it due to the fact that I removed it. I will have to modify part of the top case closure mechanism to get it to work. Not a problem, I just don't want it to bite me later. And then there is the principle of the thing!!

 

[rjinaz86323]

I agree about doing it yourself. The only time mine went to the dealer was to install the latest update. Hopefully the last time. The tech that did it struggled with it for almost an hour doing it in the parking lot. Finally they pulled it in to the shop and I think the service manager or someone else did it in like 15 minutes.

 

[Iceman47]

After watching the Shawn Smoak video, I checked mine and it didn't lock. As he shows and mentions, the amount of movement needed to correct this is minimal, 1 or 2mm. Barely discernable. I can't imagine having to return to the dealer to have the slots elongated. I'd suggest Drwerner watch the video and try adjusting the latch again.

 

[Drwerner]

Smoaks fix didn't work

After watching the Shawn Smoak video, I checked mine and it didn't lock. As he shows and mentions, the amount of movement needed to correct this is minimal, 1 or 2mm. Barely discernable. I can't imagine having to return to the dealer to have the slots elongated. I'd suggest Drwerner watch the video and try adjusting the latch again.

Step 1 - remove panel - piece of cake.
Step 2 - note position of locking studs - as far back as possible.
Step 3 - relocate them as far forward as possible - no engagement with trunk lid
Step 4 - carefully extend slot the pins fit it to enable them to move more forward - easy
Step 5 - lightly tighten studs and check fit - still no trunk lid engagement
Step 6 - will have to bring to dealer :banghead:

**UPDATE**

Looked more closely - the correct position (for me) is actually mid way between all the way back and all the way forward. It took some real fine tuning. I'm still pretty sure that if some pulled hard enough in the locked position it would open. I had to balance a tight close with a relatively easy (unlocked) open. It seems to be OK.

 

[Mikey]

Locks are only for the honest people!

 

[Snoozer]

By golly, I thought I was not locking mine. I just went out to the garage and moved the pins and reset. Took me about three minutes. Thanks everyone.

 

[shardt]

Yeah I just found this out last weekend that both our 2021 Spyders had this issue. The studs are easy to adjust, mine were not tightened down enough and figured that the moved after time. I just slid mine towards the front where the back edge of the stud lines up with the back edge of the guide.