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2020 seat removal - any videos or written steps??
- Thread starter Cirhere
- Start date
WilcoJunoHotel
New member
The passenger seat comes off easily just by pressing in 2 tabs that are accessible from underneath when you raise the front seat. They can be tricky to locate but after you have done it a time or two, it is very easy. There are a few posts on this forum and maybe a few pics - do a SEARCH.
The drivers seat also comes off easily by removing the 1 screw that holds the support strut and then removing the 2 bolts at the hinge. Remove passenger seat first.
Also, if you have heated seats you will have to unplug each seat from the wiring harness.
Shouldn't take more than 30 seconds to remove the rear seat and maybe 5 minutes for the driver.
The drivers seat also comes off easily by removing the 1 screw that holds the support strut and then removing the 2 bolts at the hinge. Remove passenger seat first.
Also, if you have heated seats you will have to unplug each seat from the wiring harness.
Shouldn't take more than 30 seconds to remove the rear seat and maybe 5 minutes for the driver.
Valkrocket
Member
Definitely gonna need a flashlight to find those two tabs right and left. That's the hardest part.
And hopefully those tabs actually catch the rear seat. Mine are there but they don't do jack. I can lift my rear seat off w/o touching the tabs (or even lifting the front seat). If it weren't for my backrest, it wouldn't surprise me if the rear seat just flew off. I have my 3k mile service coming up soon. I think I'll mention this to them.
WilcoJunoHotel
New member
On my OEM passenger seat, it engaged very easily (like it is supposed to) but on my heated replacement seat, the tabs did not want to engage at all. I played with it and wound up using quite a bit of pressure/weight to get them to finally engage. I haven't removed yet so I can't tell you why or what finally compressed enough for them to engage.
I'm 300#. Even if I sit on the passenger seat, my tabs won't click into place. I think it's a design defect. When they were molding the seats, I think there were some that didn't fully cure or cured incorrectly causing the tabs to cure at the wrong (backwards) angle. Like I said, when I go in for my 3k mile service, I'll have them look at it. As far as I'm concerned, it's a warranty issue and they can get me a new passenger seat.
1: Raise drivers seat
2: Look at the underside of drivers seat and identify two tabs that are clear in the back.
3: Press release tabs while lifting passenger seat.
4: Disconnect electrical connection from passenger seat cable and remove seat.
Peteoz
Well-known member
Sorry Cirhere, just a very brief hijack.....MONK, at 300lbs how do you find the performance of the stock shocks.....no bottoming out?
Pete
K80Shooter
New member
They are replacing my rear seat under warranty for the same reason. When I was telling the service rep about it he said lets go see, we went out there and without even trying to unlatch it he got both sides of the rear seat and pulled it straight up and said he didn't see anything wrong. I explained to him he shouldn't be able to do that then told him how it was supposed to work. I think most of these people don't have a clue how to do things and that's what's wrong with most of them.,,,,,,,,,,,,, just jerk them up a few times and it will get easier. :gaah:
Jetfixer
Well-known member
Take a close look at how the wiring harnesses are routed under the passenger seat. When I switched to a comfort seat, I had the same issue at first. Turned out that a couple of the wire bundles were not under the rigid clips they were supposed to be under, which prevented the seat from latching in the front correctly. There are "rails" that the disconnect plugs are supposed to be in also to keep them in the right spot.
The seat sits all the way down. When I look under the drivers seat, I can see where the clips/tabs are. They're in the right place. They just don't have enough "spring" in them to catch the keepers. Good point, though. I'll double check later this week once the rain stops and I feel like going out to the garage, just in case.
Do you have a picture of the rails with the plugs in them?
Jetfixer
Well-known member
You can see the connector in each pair of photos is either "on" or "off" the small plastic rail that one half of the connector should be slid onto. This keeps the wire harness in the proper location. The photos on the right are the connector for a heated seat.
JohnRuckus
Member
I've been trying to find a video too lol
My air suspension doesn't seem to absorb many speed bumps, potholes, or even small holes in the road very well. It was bad when I rode solo, but I recently had a passenger and every bump was felt and heard. I saw a video from Smoak's Vlog a while back and figured that either there was too much air or not enough air in the bag.
I have a portable Halo battery jumper/air compressor(neat little gadget) that I planned to use to inflate or deflate some air from the bag.
I saw a few posts, 1 from Monk, regarding the short and hard to reach Schrader valve and extension that folks added.
Well, I was able to barely fit my arm under the raised driver(operator) seat to attach the compressor. Getting the extension on was a completely different story. My hands and forearms are too large to maneuver that well.
I may have to take the seat off to tighten the extension, or find someone with small hands and arms to do it for me. Pretty cold here today. So, I'll test ride tomorrow to see if the addition of air to the bag changes the ride. The compressor registered 0 PSI when I initially connected it. l added 70. I'm not that small of a guy 250+. Based on the manual that should be enough for me + another rider.
If anyone has a link to the post that has video of these little tabs that release the seat, that'd be great.
Oh yeah, I can tell now that the $10 spent on the valve extension was a great purchase.Particularly, if I'm going to add air to this thing every week or so.
My air suspension doesn't seem to absorb many speed bumps, potholes, or even small holes in the road very well. It was bad when I rode solo, but I recently had a passenger and every bump was felt and heard. I saw a video from Smoak's Vlog a while back and figured that either there was too much air or not enough air in the bag.
I have a portable Halo battery jumper/air compressor(neat little gadget) that I planned to use to inflate or deflate some air from the bag.
I saw a few posts, 1 from Monk, regarding the short and hard to reach Schrader valve and extension that folks added.
Well, I was able to barely fit my arm under the raised driver(operator) seat to attach the compressor. Getting the extension on was a completely different story. My hands and forearms are too large to maneuver that well.
I may have to take the seat off to tighten the extension, or find someone with small hands and arms to do it for me. Pretty cold here today. So, I'll test ride tomorrow to see if the addition of air to the bag changes the ride. The compressor registered 0 PSI when I initially connected it. l added 70. I'm not that small of a guy 250+. Based on the manual that should be enough for me + another rider.
If anyone has a link to the post that has video of these little tabs that release the seat, that'd be great.
Oh yeah, I can tell now that the $10 spent on the valve extension was a great purchase.Particularly, if I'm going to add air to this thing every week or so.
You can easily reach the OEM Schrader valve if you remove the passenger seat at least enough to screw on the extension. Get it finger tight then use a pair of pliers to finish tightening it. I'd say 70# is WAY too much for a solo rider, especially @ only 250#. I weigh 300# and only have about 60-62#. Even at that, it's a little much for non-aggressive riding. I only keep it that high because I ride aggressively and normally am happy to substitute a little bit of comfort for a little better handling (although I may be imagining the better handling). I'd say, for a 250# rider, 58-60# should be more than enough. I rode it home from the dealer when I first got it with ZERO air in the bag and didn't think it was a horrible ride (I wouldn't recommend that). The specs in the manual are just a suggestion.
Also, once you have the extension in place, you can tuck the end into a little square hole on the side of the bike (under the drivers seat). I'll try to remember to snap a pic later. It keeps the bulk of the hose out of the way so it doesn't interfere with your drivers seat.
WilcoJunoHotel
New member
190 pounds here and I run it at 50-54 psi.
JohnRuckus
Member
Good to know. Thanks!
JohnRuckus
Member
This the best I found so far. From slingmods backrest install. It may be semi-helpful.
Start at around the 3:17 mark
https://youtu.be/02xASx27tq4
Escorial
Member
Just took mine off, so I know pic's can be very helpful - here you go.
What confused me was that I thought the tabs were on each side - they're not, as you can see in the pic's...
Another question is that red piece on the bottom of the passenger seat. When the seat is on, that red piece sits atop a large switch. Is that a safety of some sorts in case the passenger decides to take a leap?
What confused me was that I thought the tabs were on each side - they're not, as you can see in the pic's...
Another question is that red piece on the bottom of the passenger seat. When the seat is on, that red piece sits atop a large switch. Is that a safety of some sorts in case the passenger decides to take a leap?
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Peteoz
Well-known member
The tabs are indeed on “each side”, Escorial. One on the right side of the centre and one on the left side of centre:thumbup:
That red tab is where your rear seat weight detector sits.:dontknow:
Hopefully Cirhere has already solved this issue. Last post was in Feb 2021.
This photo is taken from the left side. You can see the circular detector next to the label.
Pete
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