** 2017 DAYTONA F3-S (SE) NEEDS MORE LOW-END POWER - BEST WAY FOR REAL RESULTS?? **

[TRLBLZR1]

** 2017 DAYTONA F3-S (SE) NEEDS MORE LOW-END "PUNCH" - BEST WAY FOR REAL RESULTS?? **

Have read all the forums and even the ECM remapping (Monster) indicates the gains are really more on other models/different gearing and mostly at high RPM's..... (I have no interest in high rpm mods, power is great there and I don't push to the existing rev limiter anyways.) ~ There has to be some solution that will actually increase "out of the hole" performance so that I can get the rear tire to break loose if I want to!

I keep coming back to wishing there was a different drive sprocket option (2 less "teeth")..... Have never been over 80 on the machine anyways, and not concerned with fuel economy, I don't get to drive it long distances anyways due to occupation..... Just like to zip etc. around town.

As at least one other 2017 Daytona-500 (SE) owner has indicated on this forum: Very seldom is it possible to get that rear tire to even chirp from startup. (2017 F3-S SE Daytona-500 edition) You almost have to come over a crown of the road and "unload the suspension on rear tire" to get the rear tire "loose." (regardless of traction/control settings) Even around a slight corner it is difficult to break traction like the ads/video on Can-Am's website shows. Very seldom do I have interest in spinning the tire & I don't beat on the machine. But even on that occasional hard acceleration from a stop... Usually the only thing I can get (leaning off seat just like a snowmobile) pulling out of a parking lot etc. is a little inside tire lift...... As for straight line acceleration, FORGET IT! She has plenty of go, but without a clutch, that sticky tire refused to let go whatsoever.

HONESTLY: LOVE THE HANDLING, but I'm a little disappointed having spent the $$ on a 2017 (held out for T/C disengage capabilities) AND then not experiencing the stock performance portrayed on the Can-Am website. (Their promo video.) I was dealer principal/owner of a powersports dealer (4 brands, multi-seasonal products/lines) for ~17 years, and honestly: The capabilities the OEM marketing departments showed their stock machines doing (in their promo videos) were "achievable." ~ Not in this case..... <one thumb down>

FWIW: I have even thought about going with the OEM Akrapovic exhaust, but doubt that will make a difference. I'm not trying to make more noise either. ~ Although if it made a difference, a little different sound would be fine.) I remember back to the older Suzuki GSXR-1100 days where you could clip a single wire, and that unrestricted 1'st gear. Can't help but wonder if something similar is "at play" here!

Open to any/all reasonable suggestions, thoughts & ideas, but don't want to waste $$! (And yes, I want to keep it quasi-legal & not void warranty.) :banghead:
How about tire pressure? Slightly higher (or lower) maybe? I'm running factory spec. pressure, never tried changing that.​

 

[SilverFox1]

TRLBLZER, I'm not that techky but I'm almost certain that a higher inflated tire would definitely give you less traction therefore getting you closer to what you want to achieve. Just saying. Without adjusting anything else except maybe your rear suspension only. Good luck!

SilverFox

 

[TRLBLZR1]

TRLBLZER, I'm not that techky but I'm almost certain that a higher inflated tire would definitely give you less traction therefore getting you closer to what you want to achieve. Just saying. Without adjusting anything else except maybe your rear suspension only. Good luck!

SilverFox

Thank you! And yep, think I'll add a few pounds to rear. Will go up 3 lbs. for starters.....

Regarding tire pressure: One thing I omitted to mention (but had thought about while writing the initial post) is that when cornering (slow speeds/1'st gear) and the throttle gets punched near apex..... Sometimes it feels like the tire (at existing spec. pressure) is almost twisting @ the sidewall instead of slipping out/counter-steering. (Pictures the sidewall folding under itself/twisting as section of REAR tire directly under pavement tries to push against area just leaving the pavement, almost like an under inflated "ballon style" tire on an atv that has good tread/traction, either accelerating and/or cornering.) I know this sounds CRAZY, but that's what I think I'm feeling from chassis feedback - "tire sidewall flexing/cupping/folding!" Thinking I may be spot on here and a few extra lbs. would be SMART. (Besides, OEM specs call for tires to be at lower pressure than I would had ever expected.)

PS: I'm not a crazy and/or abusive driver. Just riding it like a snowmobile, from which it was originally conceived. (It's one heck of a fine handling machine when you look at it & drive it that way) I just don't look at this thing like a bike, didn't want one of those and I gave up on good snow... To me, it's a street legal snowmobile, And I refer to this beast as my "snowmo-wheels!"

 

[blacklightning]

I also would like to have a little more low end hp and tq. on my F3T. It does really move once you get moving, but I do wish it had more of the seat of the pants go like my 2012 RSS. I loved the way you could run it up to around 4k, hesitate, and then twist the throttle hard. It would spin as long as you were in 1st, and then lay down a pretty good streak in 2nd. gear. Once they get moving, they are about the same, but off the line acceleration is definitely better in my 2012 RSS.

 

[Dennis in Lodi]

2016 F3L

On my totally stock 2016 F3L which has the same sprocket, I can lay down straight line rubber at will? I run 18 psi in the rear. I power up full throttle with the brake on then double pump the brake while continuing to hold the throttle wide open. With the flashed ECU and the stock exhaust I'm getting some 2nd gear rubber with a hard shift. It's a very thin line between a chirp and excessive wheel spin, so your closer that you think. Also, I saw another thread about someone not able to spin the real wheel. A forum member pointed out there is a switch under the rear seat that is passenger activated to reduce power. Maybe someone can clarify this, as your switch could be stuck?

 

[Machinegunner]

Dennis, at Rendezvous, I removed the rear seat on my F3S there is a plastic plunger that can be removed that will prevent the passenger switch from being activated. Now placing items on the rear seat will not change the power.

 

[TRLBLZR1]

On my totally stock 2016 F3L which has the same sprocket, I can lay down straight line rubber at will? I run 18 psi in the rear. I power up full throttle with the brake on then double pump the brake while continuing to hold the throttle wide open. With the flashed ECU and the stock exhaust I'm getting some 2nd gear rubber with a hard shift. It's a very thin line between a chirp and excessive wheel spin, so your closer that you think. Also, I saw another thread about someone not able to spin the real wheel. A forum member pointed out there is a switch under the rear seat that is passenger activated to reduce power. Maybe someone can clarify this, as your switch could be stuck?

No doubt holding brake will probably work for off the line spin. Figured that would work, but haven't/not interested in holding the brake under load.... (Not what I'm trying to accomplish.) Looking for predictable/mild counter-steering on corner during acceleration from a stop. (Instead of having the rear tire stick which results in lifting the inside front.) ~ It's a snowmobile thing lol.

Dennis, at Rendezvous, I removed the rear seat on my F3S there is a plastic plunger that can be removed that will prevent the passenger switch from being activated. Now placing items on the rear seat will not change the power.

Tried that.... But I get this error (defective switch/malfunction warning) constantly scrolling across the digital display that I couldn't get rid of. (so I reconnected) On that note, there are 3 wires going to that switch. Anyone know of an under-seat bypass and/or wire jumper connection configuration that would eliminate this code/make system "think" that there is no weight on seat? (My pack on seat triggers the switch. It's not necessarily the actual weight of the pack & contents, but the tension of straps securing it.)

 

[Dennis in Lodi]

Remover plastic cap

On my F3L there is a protective plastic cap over the switch, I was told by a tech from Can-Am that if the cover is removed it deactivates the switch because the remaining part of the switch no longer can make contact with the passenger seat. When I look at my seat I see a indented hole which appears to be directly over the smaller remaining switch. I thought about you this weekend as I was laying rubber down with a slight brake hold and sometimes just a straight start. I also get the rubber you are looking for hammering low speed corners. But my nanny shuts it down when my front end is turned while spinning. It seems like it's your switch holding back your fun as I was spinning at will on an F3L.
Dennis

No doubt holding brake will probably work for off the line spin. Figured that would work, but haven't/not interested in holding the brake under load.... (Not what I'm trying to accomplish.) Looking for predictable/mild counter-steering on corner during acceleration from a stop. (Instead of having the rear tire stick which results in lifting the inside front.) ~ It's a snowmobile thing lol.



Tried that.... But I get this error (defective switch/malfunction warning) constantly scrolling across the digital display that I couldn't get rid of. (so I reconnected) On that note, there are 3 wires going to that switch. Anyone know of an under-seat bypass and/or wire jumper connection configuration that would eliminate this code/make system "think" that there is no weight on seat? (My pack on seat triggers the switch. It's not necessarily the actual weight of the pack & contents, but the tension of straps securing it.)

 

[Wildrice]

Does the rear seat switch reduce power or change handling stability characteristics??

On my F3L there is a protective plastic cap over the switch, I was told by a tech from Can-Am that if the cover is removed it deactivates the switch because the remaining part of the switch no longer can make contact with the passenger seat. When I look at my seat I see a indented hole which appears to be directly over the smaller remaining switch. I thought about you this weekend as I was laying rubber down with a slight brake hold and sometimes just a straight start. I also get the rubber you are looking for hammering low speed corners. But my nanny shuts it down when my front end is turned while spinning. It seems like it's your switch holding back your fun as I was spinning at will on an F3L.
Dennis

I have read on a previous post that the rear seat switch only effects stability control characteristics --Not Power--true or false?
Darrell

 

[Michaelscs]

I have read on a previous post that the rear seat switch only effects stability control characteristics --Not Power--true or false?
Darrell

False! When my wife rides with me, hence activating the switch, the nanny kicks in much sooner and cuts the power more.