2016 Spyder RT-S has a misfire and dumping gas. No codes, uses gas very quickly.

[Wingerdinger]

I am new owner of a 2016 RT, so the 1330 engine. I bought it as is. It has 5,500 miles, and had not been used very much in the last year.
The bike has basically sat since last fall. The old owner claims that the bike run fine just a few days ago. I have my doubts about that.
The engine starts right up, but has a misfire all the time, at any rpm. It has very little power. The throttle has very poor response, and the bike slows on even mild uphill slopes.
One big factor is that it uses gas to the tune of 50 miles to a tank.. 10 miles to the gallon. A person following me in a car reported smelling gas a lot.
The tank was full when I got it, very likely from last fall, so maybe 9 months.
It ran just well enough to drive it, so I decided to try and get it home, almost 200 miles, so at least I could run the old gas out and eliminate that possibility.
I put 4 tanks of gas in, in 200 miles with no improvement. 91 octane, non-ethanol gas.
Today I ordered spark plugs to eliminate that possibility. I have it dismantled to the point I can replace spark plugs and can get to the injectors (shame on BRP for this design). The air filter looks new, and even though there was mud-bug mud everywhere, after a good wash, the engine looks good with no wire issues or rodent damage.
It seems more and more obvious that it has a bad injector dumping gas.
I am looking for some input on the issue. Please don't suggest fuel injector cleaner or cleaning, the injector is open, not clogged.
Can anyone tell me how I might go about finding out which injector is bad, if in fact that is the problem?

 

[happyspyder2039]

How fast were you riding and what gear?
Interstate or back roads. Any kind of headwinds or side can kill fuel economy. I’ve gone over 200 miles on a tank@60 miles per hour or 70 doing interstate 75-80.

 

[BertRemington]

A few years ago, I purchased my 2014 RT-S SE6 with 77K miles. I was the third owner. I was smart enough to not bother asking about the service history. It doesn't matter what the previous owners tell you. You assess the machine as it is and as you want it to be. I wanted trouble-free operation. So I replaced every service part mentioned in the maintenance schedule. And then I replaced more - brake pads, tires, etc. And I achieved the result I wanted.

My advice is for you to do the same.

Regarding spark plugs, if you didn't buy BajaRon's kit you started off on the wrong foot.

Regarding fuel injectors, remove them and send them to a cleaning service.

The air intake system achieved BRP's design goals of quiet operation, although some folks think the cool air intake snout actually is a hot air intake and have taken steps to improve cooling.

 

[helton61]

I have a 16 RTL sounds like the same problems I had. I changed plugs and all is well. I would do a complete service on it, fuel filter also.

 

[Albec]

Does the oil smell of gas?

With that much gas going 'somewhere', I'd be very afraid of my oil being severely diluted! Engine damaging diluted.

 

[KX5062]

What you're describing is a very unusual problem for the ACE motors. I would suggest trying to find someone with a BUDS diagnostic software around you. There could be a hidden error code. The only way I know of to test the injectors is to remove them and do a bench test. There are tons of YouTube videos about how to do that. I know this isn't much help, but that's all I can think of at the moment. Keep us posted and good luck. The Spyder, while quirky, is a rather reliable and robust vehicle.

 

[ARtraveler]

You can get an actual servicing history by suppling a dealer with the VIN #. They can run it through their computer system and give you an "actual" service history.

Those that take for granted whatever the seller says, are usually cruisin for a brusin. :thumbup:

Turst but Verify has long been my motto. :bowdown:

 

[Wingerdinger]

UPDATE:
I got the new plugs in with the heat compound and dialectric grease.
I had the injectors tested and cleaned. The tech said they did not need it, they were fine.
I got it running today and it's running on all 3 cylinders.
It went into limp mode with several error codes, so that will be next.
Prior to the tear down for plugs, I had the engine running with the frunk off. That is where I picked up the codes (I hope).
I had no codes prior to that.
I did have trouble with two 3-pin connectors on the right side, the wiring for them goes over the secondary air box. The two connectors have identical wire color, and each can be plugged into either opposing terminal. I tried both ways, and got limp mode either way.
I didn't check the codes for both ways, I figured the codes either have to be cleared or 'driven out'.
Any suggestions are welcome.

 

[Redbeard]

On a totally different engine I once had a similar problem with gas milage going crazy like yours. Code reader showed an upstream 02 sensor was going bad. This engine was a 4.2l GM engine in a trailblazer and normal fuel consumption was 15-18 mpg. When the 02 sensor went out it dropped to 1-2 mpg! And this was not a gradual loss of mpg, but immeadiate. Totally unbelievable. I have not looked where the 02 sensors are located on the 1330, but see if any of the codes you find show anything regarding the 02 sensor.

current 2023 RT Spyder
former 2020 F3 Spyder

 

[Mikey]

You may have to stop trying to guess what those codes are and find out! You say it's firing on all three - that's great, but now you've got codes! Well, it's time to see what they're all about. :dontknow:

 

[KX5062]

You'll get error codes showing if you start the bike up in an unlevel condition. Like, if the front or rear are jacked up. Those will clear out by themselves. If you go into limp mode, you can stop the engine and remove the key and walk away for a couple of minutes (to be safe) and then restart. If it continues to be in limp mode, then you've got more than a transient problem.

 

[BertRemington]

..... <snip> ..... The two connectors have identical wire color, ..... <snip> .....

If the wire colors are GY/BG, BK, GY/GN they are your fog lights.

 

[BajaRon]

Did you change the fuel filter?

 

[Wingerdinger]

I changed the fuel filter, the air filter looks like new.
The codes I am getting are P2620, P2621, and P212C
These are TPS codes, and I am certain that I must have swapped the two identical looking connectors, one of which goes to the TPS sensor.
I am betting that the other one is a second sensor for the throttle body.
I am going to start a new thread to inquire about the wiring. I do not want to damage a sensor (if I haven't already) by plugging it in the wrong connector.
Assuming, without knowing that the two connectors are the two throttle sensors, do you think I would cause any harm by switching the two connectors, and driving it until I see if it goes out of Limp Mode?
EDIT: I inspected the throttle body again and found that I did not plug it in all the way.
Started it, and 15 seconds later it went out of limp mode, and the check engine light went out.
I appreciate everyone's help on this. It has been an incredible learning experience for me.
I can now be considered well versed in how to replace spark plugs and service injectors on the RT 1330.

 

[BajaRon]

I changed the fuel filter, the air filter looks like new.
The codes I am getting are P2620, P2621, and P212C
These are TPS codes, and I am certain that I must have swapped the two identical looking connectors, one of which goes to the TPS sensor.
I am betting that the other one is a second sensor for the throttle body.
I am going to start a new thread to inquire about the wiring. I do not want to damage a sensor (if I haven't already) by plugging it in the wrong connector.
Assuming, without knowing that the two connectors are the two throttle sensors, do you think I would cause any harm by switching the two connectors, and driving it until I see if it goes out of Limp Mode?

I can't answer that because we've not done it. But my guess is that you'll be OK once you get the plugs back where they belong. You'll just have to give it a shot and see.

 

[Wingerdinger]

If the wire colors are GY/BG, BK, GY/GN they are your fog lights.

They are in fact those colors. Thank you.

 

[BertRemington]

These are TPS codes, and I am certain that I must have swapped the two identical looking connectors, one of which goes to the TPS sensor. I am betting that the other one is a second sensor for the throttle body.

The "TPS/throttle body" Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) is a 6-position connector. You will need to up your game if you want to continue digging into your wiring like this. While most connections are mismate-safe there are opportunities for errors.

 

[Wingerdinger]

The "TPS/throttle body" Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) is a 6-position connector. You will need to up your game if you want to continue digging into your wiring like this. While most connections are mismate-safe there are opportunities for errors.

It sure was a learning experience. I only wanted to fix a misfire. The thing that threw me was the gas consumption and the raw gas smell. I would have simply changed the plugs and tried it except for the insane labor to do it. So I pulled the injectors for testing while in there.
I guess having 33% of the gas unburnt and 33% of the power gone really dumped the gas.
In the end, I am glad for the experience.

 

[Jetfixer]

If you ran it with the frunk removed, then you also must have had the connector removed for the air temp sensor. Doesn't make computer happy.

 

[Mikey]

I tried to run mine without the frunk and it would not try to start till I got the unit close enough to plug in my wires. But of course, I am running old iron, maybe different from yours!