2016 RTS SE6 SHIFTING

[nvsofu nj]

Hello all once again,

Another newbie question !!!!!! Although, I have read many posts back and forth....... Right now i have been riding my Spyder in the ECO mode which is having me shift I think way to early between 2900 to 3200 RPMS.... I have read many posts saying 4000 RPMS plus..... I am not trying to run through the gears but find myself slowing down for whatever reason and being in 4th or 5th @ 2800 RPMS and than lugging the engine...... What are the optimum shifting points as again i have read many different posts and the computer telling me to shift at much lower RPMS...... Any feedback would be greatly appreciated...... And those that have answered newbie questions in the past Thank you as you have all been helpful !!!!!

Gary
Monmouth County, N.J.

 

[ARtraveler]

Here is an easy version--and it works for me.

You are right--most people do not use ECO version. It does lower the shifting points.

Each RT has a "sweet spot."

Mine is around 3500. I shift at and keep the rpm's in the 3500 - 4000 rpms. That does not mean you will be in 6th gear once you get up to speed. The 1330 has lower torque than the 998 and it will pull good at any time.

Get used to the "sound" your engine makes at the sweet spot. You do not need to look at the tach all the time. Also my complaint about ECO--the green arrow can also be distracting.

At 65 mph in sixth gear on the highway--you will be around 3500 rpm's.

Downshifting: I let the semi auto do it 98% of the time. If I need to punch it--then I will drop a gear manually and go. :yes:

 

[HayRog]

Here is an easy version--and it works for me.

You are right--most people do not use ECO version. It does lower the shifting points.

Each RT has a "sweet spot."

Mine is around 3500. I shift at and keep the rpm's in the 3500 - 4000 rpms. That does not mean you will be in 6th gear once you get up to speed. The 1330 has lower torque than the 998 and it will pull good at any time.

Get used to the "sound" your engine makes at the sweet spot. You do not need to look at the tach all the time. Also my complaint about ECO--the green arrow can also be distracting.

At 65 mph in sixth gear on the highway--you will be around 3500 rpm's.

Downshifting: I let the semi auto do it 98% of the time. If I need to punch it--then I will drop a gear manually and go. :yes:

:agree: completely -- except for the last sentence, and even then I don't disagree. I just like to downshift myself. Been doing it for years on 2 wheels and don't want to get outta the habit -- even though it is by hand and not by foot

 

[Bob Denman]

With the 1330/SE-6 combination: you really don't need to worry about your shift-points at all! nojoke
The new hydraulic engagement system for the clutch is fully engaged at a MUCH lower rpm level, and the engine is strong enough to make "lugging" an absolute non-issue.

For the record: I was shifting my 2014 RT-L
Into second: 2,000 rpm
Into third: 2,000 rpm
Into fourth: 2,500 rpm
Into fifth: 2,500 rpm
Into sixth: 2,500 rpm

If it would let me grab the next gear: it got grabbed!
I was in sixth gear at 39 mph!
(under normal circumstances!)
:thumbup:

 

[Easy Rider]

For the record: I was shifting my 2014 RT-L

Last time you quoted those numbers and I challenged you on them........you said, I think, that you are not necessarily recommending that anybody else do what you did/do with shifting points.

IF that is true, you need to repeat that disclaimer whenever you feel the need to post your unreasonably low shift points again.

Especially in a thread where a new rider is asking for advice.

For the OP:
I'm pretty sure that the "ECO mode" ONLY changes the recommended shift points and DOES NOTHING ELSE.
So if that is true, just turn off ECO or ignore what it is telling you.

It IS possible to cause a problem by shifting too low......although difficult and unusual.

What shift points pop up with ECO off ??

I think 3500 to 4000 is much more reasonable.
Going up to about 4500 or more and you can "skip shift" and go up two gears at a time: 1-2-4-6 :shocked:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

1330 with SE Trans .... and LUGGING !!!

Hello all once again,

Another newbie question !!!!!! Although, I have read many posts back and forth....... Right now i have been riding my Spyder in the ECO mode which is having me shift I think way to early between 2900 to 3200 RPMS.... I have read many posts saying 4000 RPMS plus..... I am not trying to run through the gears but find myself slowing down for whatever reason and being in 4th or 5th @ 2800 RPMS and than lugging the engine...... What are the optimum shifting points as again i have read many different posts and the computer telling me to shift at much lower RPMS...... Any feedback would be greatly appreciated...... And those that have answered newbie questions in the past Thank you as you have all been helpful !!!!!

Gary
Monmouth County, N.J.

If you can lug your Spyder as equipped .... something is wrong ..... The SE trans down-shifts when it needs to ....and you can't stop it from doing so ....other than shutting off the engine ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BrianO]

Eco mode

Last time you quoted those numbers and I challenged you on them........you said, I think, that you are not necessarily recommending that anybody else do what you did/do with shifting points.

IF that is true, you need to repeat that disclaimer whenever you feel the need to post your unreasonably low shift points again.

Especially in a thread where a new rider is asking for advice.

For the OP:
I'm pretty sure that the "ECO mode" ONLY changes the recommended shift points and DOES NOTHING ELSE.
So if that is true, just turn off ECO or ignore what it is telling you.

It IS possible to cause a problem by shifting too low......although difficult and unusual.

What shift points pop up with ECO off ??

I think 3500 to 4000 is much more reasonable.
Going up to about 4500 or more and you can "skip shift" and go up two gears at a time: 1-2-4-6 :shocked:

I turned ECO mode in while crusing along, and noticed the power dropped significantly. So it dies more than just activate the shift indicator.
Mine is a 16RT-L

 

[Gsebring]

Shifting

I leave mine in Eco mode. Brp stated on this site. You can shift anywhere you want. It won't shift unless your going fast enough. Nanny won't let you.Yes letting the motor lug below 2000 rpm is probably not good for it. Down shift when you need.Power band is 3000-4000. Try not to shift into 6th unless your over 55+mph. Simple- go fast and quick-let the rpm's clime to 4500 or so. Crusing- I let it run 2500 -3000 rpm in any gear.
Other will say different. Bottom line, listen to it and it tell you if its lugging and down shift as needed.

 

[Peter Aawen]

.....

For the OP:
I'm pretty sure that the "ECO mode" ONLY changes the recommended shift points and DOES NOTHING ELSE.
.....

nvsofu nj, that 'does nothing else' comment above is not quite correct/true - switching to ECO mode actually does alter the throttle 'fly-by-wire' response, making it impossible to reach the 'non-ECO mode' Wide Open Throttle setting, & degrading the throttle response right from the first little twist!! There is a chart around showing how much the response is degraded, you might be surprised at how much it actually is!! I'm not sure who posted that chart last, but I'm sure you could find it if you looked/searched, it's come up a few times & it was readily available on the BRP Web site when the 1330 & SE6 with ECO Mode first hit the streets. So not only does ECO mode try to convince you to shift WAAAAY earlier than is strictly necessary, but it also means the motor has less power on tap & there is less/slower response to a hard twist because the throttle input is de-rated!! :shocked:

That said, my answer for you is still really the same, just TURN ECO MODE OFF!! You'll enjoy ryding your Spyder a whole lot more, the throttle will no longer give you the same performance response you'd get from wringing a slightly damp sponge, & your Spyder will finally have enough power on tap to pull the skin off a day old custard! :yes: :clap:

And that won't necessarily mean you still can't get great mileage, many people riding WITHOUT ECO mode selected consistently manage to get up around 40mpg, and not all of them shift as early as Bob does either; altho the motor (without ECO mode enabled or otherwise) certainly does have the torque to handle that low rev shifting if you feel that way inclined & the oil/hydraulic clutch governed clutch engagement of the SE's behind the 1330 motor won't suffer any due to 'lack of engagement/lock-up' at low revs either - unlike the centrifugal clutch found on the earlier V-Twin SE clutches! :lecturef_smilie:

Personally, while Gsebrings' comment is clearly one option, & he does make a lot of valid points, whenever I'm ryding a 1330 SE6 Spyder, I'm more inclined towards ryding in the akspyderman & HayRog manner, changing as & when the revs 'feel & sound right' and not necessarily watching the tach all the time or using the higher gears if I don't feel the need to do so at whatever (slow) speed I'm pulling at that moment..... but as Bob & Gse & others have posted repeatedly, just cos I do something one way, it doesn't necessarily mean you are duty bound to follow suit, it's your choice how you ryde your Spyder!

Just Ryde More, Worry Less! :thumbup:

 

[4 MARIE]

I like ECO sometimes, because it delivers a softer tuning curve, although it will still "come alive"
above 4kRPM.

As for the shift light? Pfft.. if you are looking at that, you are a hazard anyway. Shift and ride it where it feels right to YOU.

 

[Ramg66]

I shift up at 3500 rpm, it seems a little smoother from 1st to 2nd a little less than 3500 rpm (say 3200-3300), the rest feel best at 3500-3700 rpm. I downshift when I'm right under 3000 rpm, I never down shift from 2nd to 1st, I'm starting to let it downshift automatically more often now.

 

[Bob Denman]

Last time you quoted those numbers and I challenged you on them........you said, I think, that you are not necessarily recommending that anybody else do what you did/do with shifting points.

And I'll say it again: do whatever the Hell you want to your bike... I couldn't care less! nojoke
When you admit that you simply like the added performance that comes with the higher shift point: you will finally be honest with yourself and others in here.
My shift points will NOT hurt the bike, and they work just fine for me.

As far as ECO Mode:


It should be pretty clear to anyone that it slows down the throttle response, and actually limits it to about 60% of maximum.

 

[Easy Rider]

It should be pretty clear to anyone that it slows down the throttle response, and actually limits it to about 60% of maximum.

OK I'll give you that one.....since I haven't been able to test it out yet.

BUT....a "slower throttle response" does not equal less performance; you just have to twist the throttle more (up to the imposed limit).

 

[2dogs]

Gary, like akspyderman said. Every bike and rider have their own sweet spots for shifting. Listen to your spyder and very your shifts points according to how much and fast you twist your wrist. I've found that the harder and faster I twist my wrist the higher my shift points are in the RPM range and quicker my rear tire wears out. Moving out at sensible speeds I find my sweet spot is about 2600 to 3200 hundred RPM. I never move the throttle to shift and I'm almost always ECO. Now that being said, if I'm following a slowpoke or a semi up hill and I want to pass, I move out of ECO down shift and twist my wrist as far as I can and shift as high in the RPM range as I can. I also release the throttle a bit like shifting a manual tranny to relieve the stress on the drive train when I shift at very high RPMs. You'll get it down after you get some miles under your belt.

 

[JayBros]

I agree with Peter. Just turn off ECO mode and ride. Find your personal sweet spot shifting points and have fun. You aren't going to "hurt" the engine/transmission; the computers won't let you.

 

[Lew L]

Just get out of "ECO" mode. Why live with dumbed down throttle response???? Then again-- my other ride is a 145 HP Yamaha V-Max that I've touched to have great throttle response and even more mid-range power.

Lack of throttle response can cause______________ Kaos

 

[Bob Denman]

:nopic: of "Yammie-Max"? :2thumbs:

 

[Lew L]

Here ya go Bob

Here ya go------------

View attachment 151723 View attachment 151725

1998 V-Max----- intake and exhaust tuning. Custom bullet fairing mounts. Corbin saddle and numerous other farkels.

 

[Bob Denman]

That Beast looks as if it's more fun, than we should be allowed to have! :bowdown:

 

[Lew L]

And the ZX-11

View attachment 151727 That Beast looks as if it's more fun, than we should be allowed to have! :bowdown:

It is and the modded ZX-11 was too.nojoke