2016 RT Front Panel Removal

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

I would like to take a peak behind the frunk at the back of the fuse boxes -- I am chasing the 8 ground points on my 2016 RT to make sure all are intact and tight as I STILL have a ground issue that affects my CB reception. So, I would like to remove just the two front panels that sit on either side of the frunk lid (all the books show only removing the front cargo module and I don't really want to do that).

So, is it possible to remove these two panels without removing the whole front cargo module? Note that I have already removed everything from the mirrors back.

Input appreciated …. if you have video, or pictures, even better!

Thank you ….. Ann

 

[JayBros]

Out of Luck

Based on helping a friend install a left LED fog light on his 2016 RT Limited I believe you're out of luck trying to get to the backs of the fuse boxes without removing the frunk as a unit. I don't know of another way to get there.

 

[Grandpot]

It only takes a few minutes to remove the Frunk, it's just bulky to lift. Don't forget the two screws underneath.

 

[youngers]

wondering again

are you for sure the c-b radio is o-kay , and in the antenna is grounded , through the coaxial cable and the base ?

 

[KX5062]

I did it once (to install the driving lights) and I don't even remember how I did it. I just recall it was very complicated and a total nuisance. It's much easier and quicker to just remove those panels while still attached to the frunk. This is the only way to get access to the fuse box and the frame in that area.

The only difficult part of removing the frunk is getting the air inlet snorkel reattached. Overall it's just 6 10mm bolts, 4 on top and 2 underneath. It's bulky and awkward, but much lighter than it appears. One person can do it, but it's easier with 2 just to guide things into place.

 

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

CB Status

are you for sure the c-b radio is o-kay , and in the antenna is grounded , through the coaxial cable and the base ?

Well …. yes, and no. The antenna is definitely grounded; confirmed via continuity test through the coax to the ground point. The coax also appears intact, testing from CB end to antenna base. The antenna itself was just replaced by J & M, so I presume it is also good. As for the CB itself …. no, I really don't know (but you would think that the FIFTH CB installed would be good). There is also a ground strap from the CB to the frame, so it should be grounded as well.

This was really all okay until the compressor was replaced and a damaged wire in the heated grips circuit repaired. During that repair, the CB and / or radio antenna ground was left disconnected and the J&M antenna damaged as well. So, the radio was fried by the missing ground and so was the CB by the damaged antenna … both have been replaced now (as has the entertainment harness). But, the static persists on receive …. everybody I talk to in the "CB world" says this is a ground problem.

So, here is my plan:

• Check the 8 ground points that go from the battery to various points on the frame; see that they are connected and tight.
• I may also do a continuity test from the negative on the battery to each of these points (looking for a break in the harness or indication that the chassis ground is not connected).
• A continuity test of the CB antenna ground to the battery (again, looking for a break or disconnected chassis ground).
• If I can't complete these checks because of access issues, then I will pull the fuse for the compressor (horn and heated grips) and see if the static goes away.

I think the BRP rep I have dealt with over the last several months must be on vacation, phone goes straight to voicemail (I recall my work phone used to do this when I set it for vacation). Anyway, I hope to have this all checked out as much as I can next week -- hubby is off his feet and can't ride or drive due to surgery on his right ankle).

All the best …. Ann

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

FRUNK REMOVAL

I did it once (to install the driving lights) and I don't even remember how I did it. I just recall it was very complicated and a total nuisance. It's much easier and quicker to just remove those panels while still attached to the frunk. This is the only way to get access to the fuse box and the frame in that area.

The only difficult part of removing the frunk is getting the air inlet snorkel reattached. Overall it's just 6 10mm bolts, 4 on top and 2 underneath. It's bulky and awkward, but much lighter than it appears. One person can do it, but it's easier with 2 just to guide things into place.

Plus the two bolts on either side ( just under the mirror area - you must remove both lower side covers to access those bolts 10mm ) .... I've had my Frunk off three or four- dozen times ....Mike :thumbup:

 

[Bfromla]

Well …. yes, and no. The antenna is definitely grounded; confirmed via continuity test through the coax to the ground point. The coax also appears intact, testing from CB end to antenna base. The antenna itself was just replaced by J & M, so I presume it is also good. As for the CB itself …. no, I really don't know (but you would think that the FIFTH CB installed would be good). There is also a ground strap from the CB to the frame, so it should be grounded as well.

This was really all okay until the compressor was replaced and a damaged wire in the heated grips circuit repaired. During that repair, the CB and / or radio antenna ground was left disconnected and the J&M antenna damaged as well. So, the radio was fried by the missing ground and so was the CB by the damaged antenna … both have been replaced now (as has the entertainment harness). But, the static persists on receive …. everybody I talk to in the "CB world" says this is a ground problem.

So, here is my plan:

• Check the 8 ground points that go from the battery to various points on the frame; see that they are connected and tight.
• I may also do a continuity test from the negative on the battery to each of these points (looking for a break in the harness or indication that the chassis ground is not connected).
• A continuity test of the CB antenna ground to the battery (again, looking for a break or disconnected chassis ground).
• If I can't complete these checks because of access issues, then I will pull the fuse for the compressor (horn and heated grips) and see if the static goes away.

I think the BRP rep I have dealt with over the last several months must be on vacation, phone goes straight to voicemail (I recall my work phone used to do this when I set it for vacation). Anyway, I hope to have this all checked out as much as I can next week -- hubby is off his feet and can't ride or drive due to surgery on his right ankle).

All the best …. Ann

:shocked:This step sounds simple enough to to try first:thumbup:
If I can't complete these checks because of access issues, then I will pull the fuse for the compressor (horn and heated grips) and see if the static goes away.

& then the complicated & difficult to reach test.:dontknow: Hope works out for you either way, & finding/testing all your grounding points is good, as long as everything gets back together & stays that way:yikes::clap: