2015 RT LTD with 1 piece rear wheel - Change bearings

[jpcoder]

Has anyone had to change the bearings on a 1 piece rear wheel with the tube between the 2 bearings tight up against the bearings on both sides? If so, how did you do it?

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Has anyone had to change the bearings on a 1 piece rear wheel with the tube between the 2 bearings tight up against the bearings on both sides? If so, how did you do it?

Are you saying the hub is not bolted to the wheel? It it's a stock wheel the wheel and hub are two pieces bolted together. Unbolt the hub and the spacer will fall out.

 

[jpcoder]

Are you saying the hub is not bolted to the wheel? It it's a stock wheel the wheel and hub are two pieces bolted together. Unbolt the hub and the spacer will fall out.

Here is a picture of the wheel.

 

[SteveLaoyster]

Here is a picture of the wheel.View attachment 155168

Wow!! A one piece hub! I wonder whose idea this was.

 

[SteveLaoyster]

I just looked at the rear drive wheel for 2016 and 2017 on discounthondaparts and it doesn't show a 2 piece rear hub for those years.

 

[4 MARIE]

just like every other one piece hub with spacer, one bearing will have to be drifted out, then the spacer will fall out, and you can use a more conventional press if you want to take out the other one. Ensure you have your new bearings on hand before even starting this job.

 

[jpcoder]

just like every other one piece hub with spacer, one bearing will have to be drifted out, then the spacer will fall out, and you can use a more conventional press if you want to take out the other one. Ensure you have your new bearings on hand before even starting this job.

Tried it, no way to get between the bearing and the inner tube. Inner diameter of the tube same as bearing.

 

[Chupaca]

Lets see....

Third world method....take a long large flat blade screw driver or rod and pry the spacer to one side ( put the rod in one side just shy of the otherside bearing and pry right and or left till it moves may have to hammer a bit ) just enough to get a bite on the inner race and beat that bearing out the back side. the spacer will fall out and then you can remove the other bearing. Then re - install the new bearings with the spacer in place. :thumbup:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I just looked at the rear drive wheel for 2016 and 2017 on discounthondaparts and it doesn't show a 2 piece rear hub for those years.

You are so correct! What I saw on the BRP parts page is the same parts diagram as you were looking at. Both show the hub just as in years past but in phantom lines with no part number. I missed that aspect of it when I was looking at the diagram.

Changing from a 2 piece wheel to a one piece wheel is a change from 2014 to 2015 I don't think anyone on this forum has mentioned before.

jp, it would be worth the $30 or so to download a copy of the RT service manual. There are a few places to get it but a good one is www.canammanuals.com. It will have the instructions on how to get the bearings out. Plus you'll eventually need it for all sorts of servicing and farkle add-ons later anyway.

I think I figured it out. The parts diagram shows a circlip between the seal and bearing on the sprocket end of the hub. That indicates to me the bearing on that end is a non-interference fit. You should be able to work the bearing out with a screwdriver or some sort of an expanding puller that fits inside the bearing. Maybe something like a piece of hose on an all thread squeezed between two pairs of nuts and washers. Or an expanding plug you might find at your hardware store.

Once you get that bearing out you can drive the other one out using a socket or something of the sort to push on the spacer, or reach through and push directly on the bearing.

 

[jpcoder]

You are so correct! What I saw on the BRP parts page is the same parts diagram as you were looking at. Both show the hub just as in years past but in phantom lines with no part number. I missed that aspect of it when I was looking at the diagram.

Changing from a 2 piece wheel to a one piece wheel is a change from 2014 to 2015 I don't think anyone on this forum has mentioned before.

jp, it would be worth the $30 or so to download a copy of the RT service manual. There are a few places to get it but a good one is www.canammanuals.com. It will have the instructions on how to get the bearings out. Plus you'll eventually need it for all sorts of servicing and farkle add-ons later anyway.

I think I figured it out. The parts diagram shows a circlip between the seal and bearing on the sprocket end of the hub. That indicates to me the bearing on that end is a non-interference fit. You should be able to work the bearing out with a screwdriver or some sort of an expanding puller that fits inside the bearing. Maybe something like a piece of hose on an all thread squeezed between two pairs of nuts and washers. Or an expanding plug you might find at your hardware store.

Once you get that bearing out you can drive the other one out using a socket or something of the sort to push on the spacer, or reach through and push directly on the bearing.

Thanks for the info on the service manual! The circlip is part of the sprocket and not part of the wheel. For the wheel, its bearing, inner tube, bearing. The issue is not being able to get any access to the back side of the bearings. The tube fits tightly into holes in the wheel that do not allow it to be moved side to side and it butts flush against both bearings with no slack.

 

[PW2013STL]

Thanks for the info on the service manual! The circlip is part of the sprocket and not part of the wheel. For the wheel, its bearing, inner tube, bearing. The issue is not being able to get any access to the back side of the bearings. The tube fits tightly into holes in the wheel that do not allow it to be moved side to side and it butts flush against both bearings with no slack.

What you need is a blind hole bearing puller. A number of auto parts sellers will rent you one for low cost - if not for free. Once you get the old bearing out so that you have the tube you could then file, or cut notches in the tube to allow access for a standard bearing puller to grip the new bearing when it comes time to replace it. The tubes job is to lock the races of the two bearings so the small amount you would be removing will not affect that.

 

[Jetfixer]

What you need is a blind hole bearing puller. A number of auto parts sellers will rent you one for low cost - if not for free. Once you get the old bearing out so that you have the tube you could then file, or cut notches in the tube to allow access for a standard bearing puller to grip the new bearing when it comes time to replace it. The tubes job is to lock the races of the two bearings so the small amount you would be removing will not affect that.

This is correct per the service manual. You need a complete set, which also includes the blind hole bearing pushers to install the new bearing correctly. Without the pusher set, when you attempt to install the second bearing, you run the risk of pushing the first bearing back out of the correct position. After the first bearing is installed, you leave the pusher in place to hold it while installing the second bearing.

 

[trikermutha]

Yep the two piece hub/wheel went away on the 2015 model year. :thumbup:

 

[KX5062]

Third world method....take a long large flat blade screw driver or rod and pry the spacer to one side ( put the rod in one side just shy of the otherside bearing and pry right and or left till it moves may have to hammer a bit ) just enough to get a bite on the inner race and beat that bearing out the back side. the spacer will fall out and then you can remove the other bearing. Then re - install the new bearings with the spacer in place. :thumbup:

This is the method I too would suggest trying. Not fancy or sanitary, but effective. This is a common method in the motorcycle world, which the Spyder rear wheel design mimics.

The only addition I would make to this suggestion is to heat the aluminum hub with a propane torch. Aluminum grows substantially when heated and at a much faster rate than steel. Get it hot, between 200-300*F, so not hot enough to do any damage to the material. (That starts around 500*F, if anyone is interested.) If you don't have an infrared thermometer, then use the water sizzling method. Flick water or spit on it and if it immediately sizzles (212*F), it's good to go.

Do this before you begin and pick the side with the easiest access. Once the inner spacer gets loose, then start working your way around. Tapping it smartly, but not in gorilla mode, you don't want to wedge it. That will lead to many other problems. Once the one side is out and the spacer is out, flip the wheel over and repeat on the other side, using heat again.

When you're putting it back together, make sure to put the bearings in the freezer and get them good and cold. Metal shrinks when cold and expands when warm. So, again heat the wheel before you drop in the frozen bearings. The difference in material temperatures may be enough that they just drop in with no tapping, if not, you have to work fast and be precise or else you can get into trouble.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

This is correct per the service manual. You need a complete set, which also includes the blind hole bearing pushers to install the new bearing correctly. Without the pusher set, when you attempt to install the second bearing, you run the risk of pushing the first bearing back out of the correct position. After the first bearing is installed, you leave the pusher in place to hold it while installing the second bearing.

This may be one time where having the dealer do the work is the better option.

 

[trikermutha]

:agree: don't risk damaging the hub/bearing areas if you don't have the right tools. It could get costly if it does get damaged from improper removal

 

[pegasus1300]

Has anyone had to change the bearings on a 1 piece rear wheel with the tube between the 2 bearings tight up against the bearings on both sides? If so, how did you do it?

You will need a blind bearing puller. This fits inside the inner race and expands to a tight fit. There will also be a small lip that will grab the inner race as well. Put a little heat on it and it will come out.
Harbour Freight has a set at a reasonable cost or you may be able to rent one.

 

[SpyderCruiser]

Great Thread!

Does anyone know the dimensions of the inside of the wheel bearing? Found a puller for $30 on eBay. And it would be helpful to know the number on the bearings, rather then pay double getting it from BRP. I have a manual but never looked at the wheel, thought my 2015 would come apart like in finless Bob's video! Thanks for this posting.:bowdown:

 

[PW2013STL]

Does anyone know the dimensions of the inside of the wheel bearing? Found a puller for $30 on eBay. And it would be helpful to know the number on the bearings, rather then pay double getting it from BRP. I have a manual but never looked at the wheel, thought my 2015 would come apart like in finless Bob's video! Thanks for this posting.:bowdown:

For that - if you have a caliper and access to your axel then measure the threaded end and that will be your bearing id.

 

[jpcoder]

Does anyone know the dimensions of the inside of the wheel bearing? Found a puller for $30 on eBay. And it would be helpful to know the number on the bearings, rather then pay double getting it from BRP. I have a manual but never looked at the wheel, thought my 2015 would come apart like in finless Bob's video! Thanks for this posting.:bowdown:

ID of a 6205 is 1 inch.