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2015 RT Ltd idling rough, no code displayed - any ideas?

nsloantx

New member
I have a 2015 Spyder RT Limited that's having rough idling issues. I have checked the purge valve; the 02 sensor; and the fuel filter/fuel pressure are good. Any idea about what could be the problem without a trip to the dealer??

I have gone through a few tanks of gas, and I've used seafoam fuel additive.

Help, please?
Holi
 
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How does it respond to throttle while in Neutral? At what rpm does the roughness go away?

How does it respond to throttle while moving in 1st? At what rpm does the roughness go away?

When did you first (date, mileage) did you first notice this roughness?

Interesting that you checked the HEGO. Would you tell us a bit more about that.
 
How many miles? Any codes?

It has just over 9800 miles and no codes. It runs rough when riding and turns off when coming to a stop. Also, run rough when throttling.
 
It still runs rough when throttling in neutral. Roughness does not go away at any rpm.
Run rough when riding and changing gears. I first noticed the roughness about two months ago. The bike has just over 9800 miles.
Not sure what the meaning of HEGO is?
 
HEGO (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen) is the legacy 4-wire single chamber O2 sensor your (and my) Spyder uses. The current dual chamber O2 sensor (I don't know if Spyders have them) is 5-6 wire UEGO.

I know you've tried Seafoam but next try BajaRon's technique https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-Plugs-Water&p=1710831&viewfull=1#post1710831

Also, change your gas vendor (not just station) and run 87 octane Regular. Vendors change their formula for summer and some vendors don't get it right for our Rotax's.

turns off when coming to a stop
Since the fuel injector duty cycle is very low under this condition I'm inclined to say the roughness is due to a fouled fuel injector. Maybe camshaft position sensor but that usually generates a fault indication and enters limp mode. Possibly a spark plug coil going bad in TX heat. As BajaRon said it would be good to change the spark plugs anyway. Use his kit which includes the thermal paste and seal lubricant and follow his instructions. Also only change one spark plug at a time -- a member here replaced his engine because the previous owner wasn't careful.

Hopefully B-12 fixes your problem.
 
Honestly, get the Spyder connected to BUDS and see what if any codes are logged.

No doubt you can toss parts at it via guess work, but it sure has that aura of a failed ignition component such as a spark plug or coil.

Then again as mentioned, fuel injector nozzle acting up can do odd things too.

If nothing else, hopefully BUDS will at least isolate which cylinder to start looking at first.
 
Seafoam is great for keeping a clean fuel system clean. But it's not all that great for cleaning a clogged system. With only 9,800 miles on a 2015 Spyder, it had to be sitting a lot. Add ethanol fuel to this scenario and you're probably looking at clogged fuel injectors, at the very least. There could be other issues as mentioned. But your idea of targeting the fuel system first is a good one.

Get a can of Berryman B-12 (see picture below). Fill the tank with straight gas if you can find it and put 1/2 of the contents into the tank. Run that tank out and do the same thing again. If you're not running significantly better by the 2nd tank you'll need to go further. If it is an injector issue, you'll need to remove them, have them cleaned and then tested. They can get so clogged that even cleaning them won't free them up. In this case the injector would need to be replaced.

Berrymans.jpg
 
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