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2014 RT SE6 with no spark - any ideas?
- Thread starter mastertek2000
- Start date
mastertek2000
New member
Yes it is in reverse and cranks when your foot is on the brake
They do that! They are even MEANT to do that!! :thumbup:
The clutch on all SE6's is operated via oil pressure, so when the engine's not running, the clutch isn't engaged (cos there's NO oil pressure
) and even if you've left it in gear, it'll still roll around if the park brake's not on; and it would even start if there wasn't that foot-brake inter-lock/lock-out thingie!! 
The lock-out is there so that you CAN NOT start the engine if the trans is in gear but you don't have your foot on the brake; cos if you did start without the brake applied, the engine running would build oil pressure pdq, engage the clutch/trans with the engine, & maybe cause the Spyder to ryde off into the distance, potentially without a ryder aboard!! :shocked:
So the SE6's DON'T hafta be in neutral to crank the engine over &/or start, but if they AREN'T in neutral, you WILL hafta have your foot on the brake or the Spyder might take off unexpectedly! :lecturef_smilie: Simples, really!
Last edited:
trikermutha
New member
You still have to be in neutral to crank the engine. Per the manual as posted on #25.
Wondering why his is still in reverse , since its a SE6 and should be in neutral?
Wondering why his is still in reverse , since its a SE6 and should be in neutral?
PMK
Active member
To satisfy those that believe it must be in neutral, carefully move the gear selector shaft behind the body work by you left heel. It is a splined shaft not externally used on SE models. Again, carefully grasp the splines aligning the jaw teeth of good pliers, ideally vice grips, and find neutral. The shifter will spring back to center after each gear selection.
As for no spark, did you try using starting fluid or was it just gasoline? Sometimes gasoline as starting fluid will not work well.
Typically, these modern electronic ignitions, especially coil on plug are very reliable for many years and miles. Yes, it may have no spark. If true, I would say it is not coils since each spark plug has its own, and one failed coil would be a simpler misfire.
Possibly the crankshaft sensor has failed, but they often toss a code and fail while the engine is running. Hopefully, it is not an engine computer issue, and again, they are pretty reliable.
Have you previously done any tasks that may have upset some wiring or connectors?
Outside of that, as mentioned trying the wide open throttle crank to clear a flooded engine has had good results for others in the past and would be my first tests as it is easy and quick.
Possibly it is bad fuel as mentioned. Contending with that can be a bit of work. Myself, If suspected, I would disconnect the fuel line at the filter and install a hose with a restrictor, then engage the key and capture fuel in a clear glass jar. Inspect for water.
If needed drain the tank in a similar manner.
The restrictor may be needed as many 60 psi injection systems default off if a fuel line leak is suspected. Without a restrictor, the system builds no pressure and shuts down.
All the best with it.
As for no spark, did you try using starting fluid or was it just gasoline? Sometimes gasoline as starting fluid will not work well.
Typically, these modern electronic ignitions, especially coil on plug are very reliable for many years and miles. Yes, it may have no spark. If true, I would say it is not coils since each spark plug has its own, and one failed coil would be a simpler misfire.
Possibly the crankshaft sensor has failed, but they often toss a code and fail while the engine is running. Hopefully, it is not an engine computer issue, and again, they are pretty reliable.
Have you previously done any tasks that may have upset some wiring or connectors?
Outside of that, as mentioned trying the wide open throttle crank to clear a flooded engine has had good results for others in the past and would be my first tests as it is easy and quick.
Possibly it is bad fuel as mentioned. Contending with that can be a bit of work. Myself, If suspected, I would disconnect the fuel line at the filter and install a hose with a restrictor, then engage the key and capture fuel in a clear glass jar. Inspect for water.
If needed drain the tank in a similar manner.
The restrictor may be needed as many 60 psi injection systems default off if a fuel line leak is suspected. Without a restrictor, the system builds no pressure and shuts down.
All the best with it.
trikermutha
New member
If its a neutral issue,gas,spark who knows we are not there.
Its up to the OP to fill us in what was done up to this point. Trying to troubleshoot like this is impossible.
Good Luck.
Its up to the OP to fill us in what was done up to this point. Trying to troubleshoot like this is impossible.
Good Luck.
mastertek2000
New member
ok so i drained the fuel replaced with fresh gass now i get a p0335 witch is a crankshaft position failure where is it located
trikermutha
New member
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CPS) CPS Location The CPS is located on the lower engine crankcase half, on the LH side of the engine.
mastertek2000
New member
Do you mean left sitting on it or looking at is
trikermutha
New member
Correct left side sitting. From the picture in the manual it looks to be under the engine about the middle of where you see the side of the engine. Lower crankcase half.
mastertek2000
New member
Ok found it located at the bottom of the crank what’s should the homs be if you Homs it if it like all other CPS air should be 550-750 Homs
PMK
Active member
FWIW, and I may be wrong, that sensor is likely a Hall Effect or similar sensor. Been dealing with similar on another project. A friend that designed electronic ignitions for race engines explained those type sensors 99.99999% of the time either work fine or fail. He also explained that in hundreds he sold on the race ignitions, only 1 failed intermittently and required troubleshooting with a heat gun to induce the failure.
My advice, and others here had them fail also, just replace it, they have the track record to indicate very likely the problem.
trikermutha
New member
Ohms-
Make sure sensor connector is fully inserted. Measure resistance from connector: ECMA-H1 to CPS-1 (expected value: < 2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMA-K2 to CPS-2 (expected value: < 2 ohms).
I have heard of the camshaft sensor failing dont think I have heard of a crankshaft sensor failing.
But its possible.
Make sure sensor connector is fully inserted. Measure resistance from connector: ECMA-H1 to CPS-1 (expected value: < 2 ohms). Measure resistance from connector: ECMA-K2 to CPS-2 (expected value: < 2 ohms).
I have heard of the camshaft sensor failing dont think I have heard of a crankshaft sensor failing.
But its possible.
mastertek2000
New member
I did a shearch on this site and seen a few 2014 having them replace thanks for the info
mastertek2000
New member
Ok well got new crank sensor in and it tested just like the old on .985 ohms so I did not install it ended up ready the bike apart some more and said what the heck check plugs installed new plugs she fired up runs like a charm thank you all for the help
trikermutha
New member
Just wondering how did the spark plugs look and only 10k miles? The plugs were bad?
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