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2014 RT S USB Cable Run from Trunk
- Thread starter BearX16
- Start date
JayBros
Well-known member
There should be a removable port blank on the left side of the rear wall of your frunk for a customer choice receptacle add-on. When I bought mine there was an option for a 12v cigarette lighter type receptacle or a USB one. It is directly below the left fuse box. Behind this blank is a pair of unswitched wires to power the receptacle. It would be a shorter and easier run to the bars to power your accessory and you wouldn't have to do any drilling and sealing of the trunk. JMO.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
What do you plan to use it for? Charging or data transfer? There might be a better way to accomplish what you need.
Brentc
Active member
Add port from Battery
I agree, I had originally run a 10' cable from trunk to handlebar, went through side of trunk and used rtv to seal it back up. I used that for about 1 year and then added a dual USB connector from the battery to the handlebars on my spyderdock.
It was easier to install the direct wired front connection than it was to run the 10' cable from the frunk. FWIW
I agree, I had originally run a 10' cable from trunk to handlebar, went through side of trunk and used rtv to seal it back up. I used that for about 1 year and then added a dual USB connector from the battery to the handlebars on my spyderdock.
It was easier to install the direct wired front connection than it was to run the 10' cable from the frunk. FWIW
spyder01
New member
On my 17rtl I found a dual port usb rocker switch(@10$),it goes where you have the empty spot on your rocker switch panel(not sure you have rocker switches on yours but they control the hand grip heaters and the fog lites).You have to remove the gauge panel and hook the 2 wires to the fuel gauge(others could chime in about the correct colors to hook up to).The port has dual outlets and a voltmeter in the middle so you can know if your battery stops charging,also a rubber cover to keep water out.
PMK
Active member
Regarding the connection to get power for the USB. Be very considerate about how you route the wires. Obviously to avoid inducing noise into the existing wire harnesses, but also from a maintenance standpoint.
Spyders can be a bit fickle to work on, and often require disassembly of major subassemblies to gain access. If you have a wire route from the power source to your USB, avoid routing the wires in a way they are retaining a major subassembly.
A friend that worked as a Spyder tech, explained how poorly routed wiring creates a huge added time expense at dealerships, and not something covered by warranty.
Also, consider purchasing oem style waterproof connectors that are easily disconnected when needed, vs powertaps or similar that may be more permanent or difficult to remove if needed.
As an example, when I added rear trunk lights, I utilized the same switched light circuit as the frunk. By fabricating a split pigtail using oem style connectors, I can easily disconnect as needed for frunk removal. At the aft end, I installed a second oem style sealed connector. This allowed the trunk to be easily removed without removing the entire wire harness I made.
Also wanted to mention, shop wisely for your USB port. If the USB will be exposed to weather or washing, consider a higher quality sealed type.
Spyders can be a bit fickle to work on, and often require disassembly of major subassemblies to gain access. If you have a wire route from the power source to your USB, avoid routing the wires in a way they are retaining a major subassembly.
A friend that worked as a Spyder tech, explained how poorly routed wiring creates a huge added time expense at dealerships, and not something covered by warranty.
Also, consider purchasing oem style waterproof connectors that are easily disconnected when needed, vs powertaps or similar that may be more permanent or difficult to remove if needed.
As an example, when I added rear trunk lights, I utilized the same switched light circuit as the frunk. By fabricating a split pigtail using oem style connectors, I can easily disconnect as needed for frunk removal. At the aft end, I installed a second oem style sealed connector. This allowed the trunk to be easily removed without removing the entire wire harness I made.
Also wanted to mention, shop wisely for your USB port. If the USB will be exposed to weather or washing, consider a higher quality sealed type.
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