2014 Can Am Spyder with Error code P0976 - any ideas on this will be appreciated?

[UPSMAN]

Okay Everyone,

I took my 2014 RT (SE6) out of the Garage today, where I'd had it on a trickle charger all winter. I checked the oil; air in the Tires; etc; everything looked good, so I started the Spyder up with no issues; let it run for about a minute; checked the oil, it was good; jumped on it and tried to put it into gear. The engine revved up a little, but nothing happened; the rpms went to normal; and the Transmission Icon went on. The Oil was changed last fall; no issues; I then drove it for about 500 Miles with no issues, before I parked it in the garage for winter in November.

Hooked it up to BUDS, and it showed one error code - P0976. I am not an expert, but was hoping for some advice before I tow it 120 miles to the closest Spyder shop in Billings Mt. I had it parked in Neutral for the Winter.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

John

 

[Jetfixer]

Hook BUDS back up and go through all the transmission functions. Especially the shift point engagements and clutch engagements. I think it will sort itself out. That code references a sticking solenoid valve. The BUDS tests and a few warmup cycles should get the oil flowing again.

 

[UPSMAN]

Hook BUDS back up and go through all the transmission functions. Especially the shift point engagements and clutch engagements. I think it will sort itself out. That code references a sticking solenoid valve. The BUDS tests and a few warmup cycles should get the oil flowing again.

Thank you for the quick reply. I will have to look at the BUDS manual to see how to do those tests. Like I said, I’m not an expert. Will let you know what happens tomorrow morning. For now, I’m just frustrated. Going to have a beer. If there’s a tutorial out there, I’ll try to find it online.

 

[UPSMAN]

Hook BUDS back up and go through all the transmission functions. Especially the shift point engagements and clutch engagements. I think it will sort itself out. That code references a sticking solenoid valve. The BUDS tests and a few warmup cycles should get the oil flowing again.

UPDATE:

Hooked BUDS to Spyder and did the TCM Activation Tests; the following Failed or Passed as shown:

• Check Clutch Pressure Error - Failed Clutch pressure too high
• Check line pressure Error - Failed because of nonlinear line pressure behavior?
• Check Shifting Hydraulics - Failed to shift up because interlock stuck deployed or Dog on Dog (not sure what this means?)
• Check Clutch pressure ripple - Clutch pressure ripple too high
• Check line pressure ripple - Line Pressure too high.

• HCM Ventilation - Passed
• Self Check sequence - Pass
• Check clutch pressure hysteresis - Pass
• Check line pressure hysteresis - Pass

• TCM - voltage 14.2v
• TCM Oil Temp 191

Any ideas???

This does not make any sense, the RT has only 8860 miles on it, I drive it like a old man, hardly over the speed limit, never over 75mph, and I drive mostly in town and on Sunday afternoon drives, never over 2 hours.

It was working perfectly before I parked it for winter storage in our garage.

Hmm... very frustrating!

-

 

[Mikey]

Maybe Jetfixers right!

 

[UPSMAN]

UPDATE TWO:

BUDS hooked up this morning did the TCM Activations

Results

Hooked BUDS to Spyder and did the TCM Activation Tests; the following Failed or Passed as shown:

• Check Clutch Pressure Error - Failed Clutch pressure too high (NO CHANGE From Yesterday)
• Check Shifting Hydraulics - Failed to shift up because interlock stuck deployed or Dog on Dog (not sure what this means?) (NO CHANGE From Yesterday)
• Check line pressure Error - Failed because of nonlinear line pressure behavior? (NO CHANGE From Yesterday)
• Check Clutch pressure ripple - PASS
• Check line pressure ripple - PASS

• HCM Ventilation - PASS
• Self Check sequence - PASS
• Check clutch pressure hysteresis - PASS
• Check line pressure hysteresis - PASS

• TCM - voltage 14.2v
• TCM Oil Temp 191

 

[Jetfixer]

Here's what I would do next:
Start the bike, and let it idle until the cooling fans run for two cycles. It could take a while based on ambient temperature. THEN redo the BUDS tests. Everything you are seeing is oil related; either viscosity, or quantity. Also, perform the BUDS HCM ventilation procedure. And then run the tests again. You mentioned checking the oil, was this done properly? You should never judge the oil quantity unless you follow the procedure exactly. You need to let this oil warm up completely before checking the quantity on the dipstick. It has nothing to do with the engine temperature displayed on the console. Also, you MUST check the quantity within 2 minutes of engine shutdown, after the oil is completely heated up. You mentioned changing the oil before storage. Did you add 5 quarts? Any more than that is too much unless you also changed the TCM filter. (Which is not required until the 28k mile service). If you can't get your symptoms to clear up, I would recommend draining the oil (from both sumps), and refilling with the correct oil and 5 quarts only...

 

[UPSMAN]

Thanks for the reply, that was my next step is to do a complete oil change. The dealer did the last one so I am not sure about what amount they put in the Spyder. But it was done in the Sept of 24 and drove about 500 miles on that oil change, put in the garage in Nov of 24. I see no paperwork from the previous owner about TCM (HCM) filter being replaced, I am guessing because of the low miles it has never been done, I am the 2nd owner I bought the Spyder in 2023, the previous owner bought the BUDS unit to disable the DESS KEY. SO I bought another BUDS MECH tech KEY, just to have it. Never thought I would use it. Will update again.

Thanks for you help. Very much appreciated.
John
Livingston, MT

Dealer in Billings is booked out in to June, so I do have some time to hopefully get this worked out.

 

[UPSMAN]

Update:

Did a complete oil change; followed the service manual directions; ran BUDS, and all TCM tests passed except the Check shifting hydraulics: Faileď engine idle speed deviation too high.

Turned off the engine; let it sit for 5 mins; re started it, which cleared one code - P0976; ran the TCM test again; 2 tests failed: check clutch pressure error, and the Check shifting hydraulic error again.

No other error code come up in BUDS.

Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks again
John.


- - -

First photo, 1st TCM tests after Oil change, 2nd photo second TCM test. 3rd photo is third test. 4th pic is the only code p0976
Not sure how to test the y4 using a meter, but wiring looked good and ground connection are tight.

Very Bummed…

 

[Mikey]

Sometimes knowing things is half the battle when you don't know what to do with it. You may have to break down and take to a shop!

 

[KFULLILOVE]

I have the exact same problem with mine. Same reading with BUDS and happened the same way after winter. If you can figure this out, please let me know.

 

[trikermutha]

PCODE	MODULE	DESCRIPTION	CAUSE	ACTION
P0975	TCM BOSCH	Up Shift Valve output fault	Damaged TCM	Reset TCM Replace TCM
P0976	TCM BOSCH	Up Shift Valve short-to-ground or open pin fault	Damaged wiring harness Damaged solenoid Damaged TCM	Disconnect 14 Measure resistance between TCMA-H1 and Y4-2 (expected value: < 2 ohms). Measure resistance between TCMA-M1 and Y4-1 (expected value: < 2 ohms). Turn key to ignition Measure voltage between Y4-1 and GND (expected value: 12
P0977	TCM BOSCH	Up Shift Valve short-to-battery	Damaged wiring harness Damaged solenoid Damaged TCM Valve is worn out (high leak)	wolicl Disconnect Y4 Measure voltage between TCMA-H1 and GND (expected value: 0 volts) Measure resistance between Y4-1 and Y4-2 from Y4 (expected value: between 10 and 12 Ohms)
		Shalutch	Clutch piston is leaking Oil is of improper viscosity Pump flow is too unen out)	Replace oil and filters run dynamic and hysteresis