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2013 STS - been on tender, but now won't start! Is it dead? Where is it?

Kevnv

New member
Hello

I had bike on battery tender (connected to + and - terminals in the frunk). The tender shows green light indicating battery is charged.

When I hit start button everything went dead including LCD display and lights on fenders flashed. Is the battery dead?

Where is the battery???? I have searched and it seems on the 2013 STS it is behind the Frunk?

Can one use car lithium jump starter to jump start the bike? Can you connect jump starter to battery terminals in the Frunk?

Thanks
 
The battery is behind the cover secured with two bolts in the frunk. Easy to access.

And this is from personal experience: just because you can see over 12 volts with a VOM, or the battery tender shows "Good", that doesn't necessarily mean the battery is good. My battery for my VFR showed exactly the same symptoms as yours, and it had a dead or very nearly dead cell. Unloaded, it showed 12.5 volts; but when so much as a light bulb was put on the circuit, it showed 0 volts. Check your battery when you try to crank it, or have it load tested.

You can use a jump starter, but if your battery is toast, you may not be successful. Check it first before doing anything else.
 
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As stated the battery is in the frunk behind the panel where the owners manual is velcro attached.
Check that the battery connections are tight and corrosion free. Load test the battery.
There are jumper terminals located under the black panel above the frunk on the drivers left side.
 
Hello

I had bike on battery tender (connected to + and - terminals in the frunk). The tender shows green light indicating battery is charged.

When I hit start button everything went dead including LCD display and lights on fenders flashed. Is the battery dead?

Where is the battery???? I have searched and it seems on the 2013 STS it is behind the Frunk?

Can one use car lithium jump starter to jump start the bike? Can you connect jump starter to battery terminals in the Frunk?

Thanks

The STARTING load on the Spyder battery is hugh and is likely overwhelming a WEAK battery ( as others have said ) .... best bet is to have your battery load tested, because if you get it started by jumping, it may not re-start if you stop on the road..... I bought a small Lithium battery JUMPER for this reason..... If you need to re-place the battery put STAR washers on the terminals so they NEVER loosen without a wrench ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Assuming you're keeping the bike and assuming it's the original OEM battery, just get a new battery for it. After 8 years, it deserves it!
 
Hello

I had bike on battery tender (connected to + and - terminals in the frunk). The tender shows green light indicating battery is charged.

When I hit start button everything went dead including LCD display and lights on fenders flashed. Is the battery dead?
Yes. A Spyder will do exactly as you saw yours do when battery voltage drops below 10.5 when you hit the starter button. Green light and voltmeter check do not give any true indication what the real strength of the battery is. Only a load test can do that, and every time you hit the starter you effectively load test the battery. If it's still the original battery consider yourself lucky it has lasted this long.
 
Thanks all...

just to clarify, I can use a lithium car jump starter and connect positive and negative clamps (of the lithium car jump starter) to the positive and negative terminals where I usually connect the battery tender to (if sitting on the bike, the terminals are on the left side when you open the frunk).

Is this correct? I went to get it started to turn OFF the emergency brake so I can have Geico insurance tow it to the dealer....it is due for oil service anyway plus the battery plus I have trouble shifting it of Reverse for the first 1-3 minutes after a cold start. So 3 issues total :)
 
Connecting the jump starter as you described should work. Provided the battery isn't so dead it soaks up all the juice from the jump starter. Those
work well with low, or very low voltages, but whether they will work with a totally drained battery with a possible dead cell, I don't know. Please
let us know how it pans out.
 
Thanks all...

just to clarify, I can use a lithium car jump starter and connect positive and negative clamps (of the lithium car jump starter) to the positive and negative terminals where I usually connect the battery tender to (if sitting on the bike, the terminals are on the left side when you open the frunk).

Is this correct? I went to get it started to turn OFF the emergency brake so I can have Geico insurance tow it to the dealer....it is due for oil service anyway plus the battery plus I have trouble shifting it of Reverse for the first 1-3 minutes after a cold start. So 3 issues total :)
You're referring to the two posts with plastic caps on them, right? That's what BRP put them there for.

Minor correction on terminology. The Spyder does not have an emergency brake. What you are referring to is the parking brake. It's needed because with the automatic clutch (SE models) the bike will still move when it is parked in gear. In fact, you cannot activate the parking brake if the the bike is moving at something like 2 or 3 mph or more, which is when one would usually need to use an "emergency" brake.
 
Thanks all...

just to clarify, I can use a lithium car jump starter and connect positive and negative clamps (of the lithium car jump starter) to the positive and negative terminals where I usually connect the battery tender to (if sitting on the bike, the terminals are on the left side when you open the frunk).

Is this correct? I went to get it started to turn OFF the emergency brake so I can have Geico insurance tow it to the dealer....it is due for oil service anyway plus the battery plus I have trouble shifting it of Reverse for the first 1-3 minutes after a cold start. So 3 issues total :)

You don't need to start the engine to release the parking brake. Even if there's not enough juice to start the engine there should be enough to release the brake.
 
I think I'm going to try and replace the battery on my own to learn...I just read another post where folks gave tips.

I will order online the Yuasa YTX24HL-BS for $95.97 including shipping. I'm assuming the dealer charges well above this plus labor.

I guess I need Torx wrench and Star washers??
 
I think I'm going to try and replace the battery on my own to learn...I just read another post where folks gave tips.

I will order online the Yuasa YTX24HL-BS for $95.97 including shipping. I'm assuming the dealer charges well above this plus labor.

I guess I need Torx wrench and Star washers??

You need a Torx to remove the battery compartment cover, for 2013+. For the battery itself you need a 10mm hex and Phillips screwdriver.
 
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