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2013 spyder steering
- Thread starter shreck
- Start date
GnA
Registered User
test drive another 2013.... If it does not do the same thing... Ask dealer to FIX YOURS.
if it does act similar to yours... Perhaps it's something you are doing...:dontknow:
pushrod243
Member
I picked up my new 2013 RSS last Wednesday and have had similar results. Fortunately I kept my 2011 and am still riding it. I was excited about all the good reports on the '13 when they first came out now I wish I would have just stuck with my 2011.....My 11 has Wilbur Shocks on it. I didnt expect the Fox Shocks to be as good but this thing is like riding a wet noodle......I am Not happy to say the least. My 2011 has 34K miles on it and going on 2nd week the 13 has under 70 miles. Its 20 miles one way to the dealer and I guess I need to take it back and let them look at it instead of walking buy it and getting on the 2011 that I was supposed to be selling.
MouthPiece
Banged Up Member
I had no idea you got a new one, John. I'll stop by the shop, "Scooters", to compare notes.
Chris
Bob Denman
New member
First: :welcome:
Now... How many miles have you put on the bike?
One common issue that pops up a lot; newer riders often get a "Death-Grip" on the bars. :shocked:
Try relaxing a bit... The bike will go down the road straight if you don't add a lot of unnecessary input to the bars! :thumbup:
This assumes; of course, that there is no mechanical issue.
Try it and let us know if it helps. Goo Luck!
Now... How many miles have you put on the bike?
One common issue that pops up a lot; newer riders often get a "Death-Grip" on the bars. :shocked:
Try relaxing a bit... The bike will go down the road straight if you don't add a lot of unnecessary input to the bars! :thumbup:
This assumes; of course, that there is no mechanical issue.
Try it and let us know if it helps. Goo Luck!
bmwlarry
New member
My 2011 is in the shop and I have a loaner 2013. I certainly notice a difference in the steering. It seems that it is difference depends on the road. It seems to be that the 2013 is very sensitive to the grooves and crown in the road where my 2011 doesn't seem to be affected. Whether this is this loaner only or all 2013s, I cannot say!
bullant12
New member
No... unless coming from the unit controlling it! Plus if you get a Gold Wing trike, it will not be warrantied by Honda, if you have a cheap trike kit you will feel every bump on the road and have a big behind.
Good luck with the issue. BRP is working on it so I am sure that you will find a happy outcome because many of us '13 owners had the issue either in a light matter or seriously wrong and it got resolved.
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Also saw a similar post yesterday. Since the ball joint issue was supposed to be corrected at the dealer level for all pre-sold and new units that were affected--I am guessing the problem is one of the other two possibilities mentioned.
1. Excessive driver input.
2. Alignment (toe in/toe out) issues.
Hope you can get the issue solved. Please keep us posted.
UPDATE: Since reading additional posts below--are we seeing additional problems??? or is something else going on???:bbq:
1. Excessive driver input.
2. Alignment (toe in/toe out) issues.
Hope you can get the issue solved. Please keep us posted.
UPDATE: Since reading additional posts below--are we seeing additional problems??? or is something else going on???:bbq:
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kubie
New member
I have a 2013 Spyder STS and had all the problems you are referring to. I had the alignment done twice. The first one was with the old procedures so had to have it redone using the 2013 alignment procedures. then had the ball joints replaced still wasn't satisfied so I spent the 400 Bucks for the Fox racing Shock and Sway Bar Kit. Now I think it steers and handles like it should.
IMHO I think it should be a BRP Fix / issue. I felt from day one the front end was too mushy and fought with the dealer to do something! I got all the "Quit gorilla Gripping" and "just Relax" From the SM. ButI had an RSS before so I knew this wasn't it. So for me it was a lot less hassle to Bite the Bullet and spend the 400 Bucks then to keep fighting with my dealer.
I had the 2012 RSS and loved the way it handled, so that was my reason for choosing the Fox Package. Im Not bashing BRP or my Dealer. I think I have one of the better dealers in FL. Route 1 Motor Sports. The Owner himself is a Master BRP Mechanic and has good people under him. I just choose to Ryde rather then keep taking it to the shop to see if they could find any thing to fix!
IMHO I think it should be a BRP Fix / issue. I felt from day one the front end was too mushy and fought with the dealer to do something! I got all the "Quit gorilla Gripping" and "just Relax" From the SM. ButI had an RSS before so I knew this wasn't it. So for me it was a lot less hassle to Bite the Bullet and spend the 400 Bucks then to keep fighting with my dealer.
I had the 2012 RSS and loved the way it handled, so that was my reason for choosing the Fox Package. Im Not bashing BRP or my Dealer. I think I have one of the better dealers in FL. Route 1 Motor Sports. The Owner himself is a Master BRP Mechanic and has good people under him. I just choose to Ryde rather then keep taking it to the shop to see if they could find any thing to fix!
SpyderAnn01
Active member
I put 59,148 miles on my 2010 RTS in less than 3 years so I guess you could call me an experienced rider. I am having issues with my 2013 RTS and I was told that my Spyder was sent to the dealer after the ball joint fix was in place. The issue for me is in strong crosswinds at higher speeds, a condition that is just about situation normal here in Las Vegas. After being hit by a strong crosswind the front end nose dives then the front end veers from side to side. Kind of like when a tree is hit with a gust it leans over as long as the wind is hitting it and then it snaps back and forth when the force of the wind lets up. It is scary when it happens and it happens a lot. I have an appointment on Wednesday for my dealer to look at it and I will let you all know what I find out.
daveinva
New member
Yeah, I'll definitely say it's not the Fox shocks (at least if they're working properly and not damaged, it's definitely not the Fox shocks).
I put a pair on my 2010 RS, they work great for what they are (better than stock, not as good as the Elkas-- but a LOT less expensive).
I put a pair on my 2010 RS, they work great for what they are (better than stock, not as good as the Elkas-- but a LOT less expensive).
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Please keep us posted. Watching with great interest. :thumbup:
rabtech
New member
First let me say congrats on a new bike. Now let me help u......
I am going to skip reading all the earlier replies and just type this:::: I have ADHD :joke:
You have to trust me when I say this:
Please don't let them tell you its fixed. I can tell you that if they align the bike correctly it will handle better than your older bike. They can tell you that it has been aligned. You can even watch them do it. BUT if it is not done absolutely perfect and correctly they will MAKE IT WORSE!!!!!. AND make them check the ride height. There COULD be some issues with your shocks. I am not saying there is an issue with yours but there COULD be some problems. I know for a fact that SOME new ones shipped with bad shocks. This will make it impossible to get the alignment correct. I know i am just another voice in the crowd but I promise I know what I am talking about.
Do not give up if you want a new spyder. Call BRP on the 800 number and start a case. It is extremely important to start a case. When it is finally correct it will track perfectly on the road. If there is camber in the road you should only have to take a single finger and put it against the grip that the natural crown of the road is pulling you to and hold it on the highway. I can set my cruise control on 80MPH and take my right hand and use one finder and push on the throttle side and it will run all day in its lane with no issues. I can ride in the center of a well paved two lane road all day and never even touch my bars.
Also , wind gust will push the spyder. However if it is setup correctly it will just push you sideways and occasionally make u grip the bars tighter. It should not make it dangerous to hold on to. I have ridden in some 40 mph gust and been hit from the side and front ......and like I said if the the bike is correct you wont have issues holding it safely. It may want to swap lanes but it should swap them without getting dangerously unstable.
Im telling you this because IT IS POSSIBLE to get it correct and you will be happy.
I almost gave up on my 2013 RT. Man i am glad I stuck it out. I now have 2 new 2013 spyders and I love them.
OH....... one more thing. The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again expecting different results. Don't think a dealer will somehow gain knowledge on a subject just because its a new day. Go to a dealer that is known for their results. Even if it is a long haul. If you get proper results it will be worth it. :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:
Now stop reading and start dialing. Get you a case number and explain your problem. Tell BRP that you have ridden a Spyder before and you have experience with one. Why would a newer product be worse? It wouldn't. They will make it right. I know, Trust me.....
I am going to skip reading all the earlier replies and just type this:::: I have ADHD :joke:
You have to trust me when I say this:
Please don't let them tell you its fixed. I can tell you that if they align the bike correctly it will handle better than your older bike. They can tell you that it has been aligned. You can even watch them do it. BUT if it is not done absolutely perfect and correctly they will MAKE IT WORSE!!!!!. AND make them check the ride height. There COULD be some issues with your shocks. I am not saying there is an issue with yours but there COULD be some problems. I know for a fact that SOME new ones shipped with bad shocks. This will make it impossible to get the alignment correct. I know i am just another voice in the crowd but I promise I know what I am talking about.
Do not give up if you want a new spyder. Call BRP on the 800 number and start a case. It is extremely important to start a case. When it is finally correct it will track perfectly on the road. If there is camber in the road you should only have to take a single finger and put it against the grip that the natural crown of the road is pulling you to and hold it on the highway. I can set my cruise control on 80MPH and take my right hand and use one finder and push on the throttle side and it will run all day in its lane with no issues. I can ride in the center of a well paved two lane road all day and never even touch my bars.
Also , wind gust will push the spyder. However if it is setup correctly it will just push you sideways and occasionally make u grip the bars tighter. It should not make it dangerous to hold on to. I have ridden in some 40 mph gust and been hit from the side and front ......and like I said if the the bike is correct you wont have issues holding it safely. It may want to swap lanes but it should swap them without getting dangerously unstable.
Im telling you this because IT IS POSSIBLE to get it correct and you will be happy.
I almost gave up on my 2013 RT. Man i am glad I stuck it out. I now have 2 new 2013 spyders and I love them.
OH....... one more thing. The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again expecting different results. Don't think a dealer will somehow gain knowledge on a subject just because its a new day. Go to a dealer that is known for their results. Even if it is a long haul. If you get proper results it will be worth it. :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:
Now stop reading and start dialing. Get you a case number and explain your problem. Tell BRP that you have ridden a Spyder before and you have experience with one. Why would a newer product be worse? It wouldn't. They will make it right. I know, Trust me.....
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Please listen to Rabtech! He experienced much the same thing...and was ready to give up. They cured his Spyder and they can cure yours if they do it right and try hard enough. What you are experiencing is not normal, as you are aware. It has nothing to do with the difference between years, just that particular Spyder (and dealership).
Bob Denman
New member
:agree: He's been in the trenches, and came out a winner! :2thumbs:
Anne,
Waiting to hear about yours... Good luck! :thumbup:
Anne,
Waiting to hear about yours... Good luck! :thumbup:
SpyderAnn01
Active member
I will call tomorrow and start a case. And any of you who know me know that I don't give up and that I don't let off (the throttle) so this is really not making me happy. I know how a Spyder should handle and I will not give up until mine handles correctly.
There have been a few other people that have reported the same issues as I am having and each of us is has a machine that was shipped with the new ball joints. Maybe it is our shocks.
There have been a few other people that have reported the same issues as I am having and each of us is has a machine that was shipped with the new ball joints. Maybe it is our shocks.
I can't believe what I'm reading here, I must have got lucky. I have a 2013 RS-S that handles fantastic, tracks straight as a arrow. I will admit though, that my wife and myself have only got 600 miles on it so far and this is my first time riding a motorcycle and/or spyder on the highway. (My wife used to ride motorcycle and she loves it too, so much so, she wants to buy another one, possibly the RT Limited....Also I just finally got around to checking the tire pressure with my dial gauge, it was 10 pounds in the front? so I rechecked it with the BRP one, it read 14 pounds front. 24 pounds rear.....Oh, have not had to ride in any storms yet. So... So far so good.
