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2013 RT performance mods?
- Thread starter GlenCreek
- Start date
First up, make sure your Spyder has had the Heat Recall vents fitted & the other work involved with that done - without that, you might be lucky enough to avoid the hot seat, burns, &/or Spyder burning problems the 2013's scored due to the late decision to stuff the V-twin back into the '1330 ready' frame & suspension, but why risk it?!! If it's not yet been done, get that Heat Recall sorted first, or your investment just might go up in flames! nojoke
As for engine power/torque upgrades, fit a Catalytic Converter Eliminator (or if you prefer the other name, a Cat Delete.
) and get an ECU Upgrade done (mine was done by Jase from ECU Xtreme here in Australia, you can contact him at [email protected] & he does deal with Can-Am machines world-wide - there are others like Monster & Wick-it in North America, but I personally wouldn't touch any of the 'lesser ECU flash options' that are available out there... been there, done that, and my dough! 
) When it comes to ECU Upgrades, you need to talk to the provider about what you want & what they can do. You can pretty much choose what 'level' of upgrade you want, anything from simply ironing out the flat-spots & hesitations into full on race mode mods or even further toward the extreme end of the engine's output limits; but most prefer/refer to 'Stage 1' for those who just want a little more go, and that's probably the most common choice; then there's 'Stage 2' for those who want to really let the engine come alive, and a fair few of us have chosen to go that way; while for those of us who want to go further, there's anything you want (within mechanical limits) right out to Full-on Stonking Stupendous if you really want your Spyder to be capable of going ballistic!! 
hyea: But be aware, if you want to go anything much over Stage 1 on the ECU Upgrade, you'll probably need to improve/mod the air intake/filter too! :thumbup:
Doing the Cat Eliminator thing by itself might make your V-Twin sound a bit throatier and probably improve your mid/upper rev range a little, but there's really not much at all in it and the higher rev gains can be made at the cost of low rev grunt! That said, the Cat Eliminator & ECU Upgrade will be pretty much the only way you'll ever really get more 'engine performance/better output', altho fitting a different muffler will probably change the noise output too. Spyder engines are fairly significantly de-tuned from the factory, but are out there in other applications with much higher outputs so for most Spyder Ryder needs, you don't really need to risk reliability at all, and I've found that because I can hold the higher gears longer due to the better power/torque output, I can get significantly better fuel economy when I'm simply cruising along - but of course, it will (& does!) use somewhat more gas when I wring it out all the time.... and doing that can be juuust a little hard on rear tires too!pps:
Which brings me to the 'non-engine' performance mods that you can do. If you are still on The OE Spec Kendas (or their clones) TOSS THEM & fit some 'real' tires, then run them at an appropriate pressure for the lighter loads our Spyder imposes (for most, that'll be somewhere between about 16 & 18 psi, maybe 20-ish if you run in high temp/hot road conditions a lot ie, ambients over 100°F) Just about any good name tire will perform (& last! ) better than the original Kendas, and if you choose a tire/tread that suits your particular performance, ride, & handling needs, I doubt you'll ever regret it; altho you might need to 're-learn' how a radial tire should feel when it's working with your suspension and maximising traction & longevity instead of simply 'feeling' right and over-inflated so much that it could probably match the pressures run in car tires when trying achieve the ultimate in fuel economy! :shocked:
But there's more - you'll be quite surprised at how much 'better' & 'more planted' your Spyder will feel with an upgraded anti-sway bar and solid end links (BajaRon is a sponsor here & does some great stuff!) Plus, the shocks & springs on our Spyders are not really the best selection out there, altho they are by no means a 'poor choice'; so you might want to look at getting/fitting something more specifically suited to you & your ryding! And since your Spyder is an RT, you REALLY NEED to get a full set of Magic Mirror Mounts so that you don't hafta worry about loose/broken mirror mounts after banging on the mirrors to get them off (as per the OEM instructions! :sour: ) and so you can readily & easily remove & refit your mirrors in order to get the Tupperware off if you ever want to do any of the servicing yourself! :thumbup:
How's that for a start?
As for engine power/torque upgrades, fit a Catalytic Converter Eliminator (or if you prefer the other name, a Cat Delete.
) and get an ECU Upgrade done (mine was done by Jase from ECU Xtreme here in Australia, you can contact him at [email protected] & he does deal with Can-Am machines world-wide - there are others like Monster & Wick-it in North America, but I personally wouldn't touch any of the 'lesser ECU flash options' that are available out there... been there, done that, and my dough! ) When it comes to ECU Upgrades, you need to talk to the provider about what you want & what they can do. You can pretty much choose what 'level' of upgrade you want, anything from simply ironing out the flat-spots & hesitations into full on race mode mods or even further toward the extreme end of the engine's output limits; but most prefer/refer to 'Stage 1' for those who just want a little more go, and that's probably the most common choice; then there's 'Stage 2' for those who want to really let the engine come alive, and a fair few of us have chosen to go that way; while for those of us who want to go further, there's anything you want (within mechanical limits) right out to Full-on Stonking Stupendous if you really want your Spyder to be capable of going ballistic!! hyea: But be aware, if you want to go anything much over Stage 1 on the ECU Upgrade, you'll probably need to improve/mod the air intake/filter too! :thumbup:Doing the Cat Eliminator thing by itself might make your V-Twin sound a bit throatier and probably improve your mid/upper rev range a little, but there's really not much at all in it and the higher rev gains can be made at the cost of low rev grunt! That said, the Cat Eliminator & ECU Upgrade will be pretty much the only way you'll ever really get more 'engine performance/better output', altho fitting a different muffler will probably change the noise output too. Spyder engines are fairly significantly de-tuned from the factory, but are out there in other applications with much higher outputs so for most Spyder Ryder needs, you don't really need to risk reliability at all, and I've found that because I can hold the higher gears longer due to the better power/torque output, I can get significantly better fuel economy when I'm simply cruising along - but of course, it will (& does!) use somewhat more gas when I wring it out all the time.... and doing that can be juuust a little hard on rear tires too!
pps:Which brings me to the 'non-engine' performance mods that you can do. If you are still on The OE Spec Kendas (or their clones) TOSS THEM & fit some 'real' tires, then run them at an appropriate pressure for the lighter loads our Spyder imposes (for most, that'll be somewhere between about 16 & 18 psi, maybe 20-ish if you run in high temp/hot road conditions a lot ie, ambients over 100°F) Just about any good name tire will perform (& last!
) better than the original Kendas, and if you choose a tire/tread that suits your particular performance, ride, & handling needs, I doubt you'll ever regret it; altho you might need to 're-learn' how a radial tire should feel when it's working with your suspension and maximising traction & longevity instead of simply 'feeling' right and over-inflated so much that it could probably match the pressures run in car tires when trying achieve the ultimate in fuel economy! :shocked:But there's more - you'll be quite surprised at how much 'better' & 'more planted' your Spyder will feel with an upgraded anti-sway bar and solid end links (BajaRon is a sponsor here & does some great stuff!) Plus, the shocks & springs on our Spyders are not really the best selection out there, altho they are by no means a 'poor choice'; so you might want to look at getting/fitting something more specifically suited to you & your ryding! And since your Spyder is an RT, you REALLY NEED to get a full set of Magic Mirror Mounts so that you don't hafta worry about loose/broken mirror mounts after banging on the mirrors to get them off (as per the OEM instructions! :sour: ) and so you can readily & easily remove & refit your mirrors in order to get the Tupperware off if you ever want to do any of the servicing yourself! :thumbup:
How's that for a start?
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
You ( and all the rest of us ) have a computer controlled engine ..... so changing the ECU map is the first thing you will have to do .... the most reliable people who can do this are " Jase " in Australia and /or Monster Fuel in Canada or their partners in Louisiana - " Wicked performance ". WHY is this necessary ??? ... BRP's ECU map will over-ride / adjust to anything else you try to add ..... Mike :thumbup:
Ok wow that was a lot to take in. I’ll start with the above quote. How do I know if my spyder has had this recall done?
I would like to know as well. Following....
Do you have the contact info for Wicked performance in Louisiana? I could not find them on the web.
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Recall included air scoops. They will be found near the top of the fairing, between the headlights and driving lights.
Last edited:
Thanks!
Mine has that so I’m guessing the previous owner had the recall completed. Thanks.
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