2013 RT Handling Problems

[cbell1]

My dealer installed the upgraded ball joints before delivery. I rode for 300 miles and decided that my inability to keep the bike centered in my lane was not me. Took it back to the dealer and got an alignment using(I was told) the new equipment and procedures. While it seems some better I've put another 800 plus miles on it and still have a terribly handling machine. 4 hour ride this morning -part city and part interstate- had me feeling totally exhausted. Just wondering if anyone else has had problems getting their machine to ride properly. I'll be getting back with the dealer first thing they open Tuesday morning. Thanks for listening.

 

[Mad Mike]

Handling issue

When I purchased mine in 2011, I noticed that if I tried to center it in my lane, it migrated to the right or left. What I immediately realized is that semi's and other heavy trucks as well as traffic, make a depression on the right and left side of the lane and a hump in the center of the lane. This may not even be visual to you but if the road is bad enough, you will have to ride to one side or another. Hope a cure to your problem is this simple and not major. Good luck!:thumbup:

 

[CurrantRyder]

recommend that BRP open a case number for you

My dealer installed the upgraded ball joints before delivery. I rode for 300 miles and decided that my inability to keep the bike centered in my lane was not me. Took it back to the dealer and got an alignment using(I was told) the new equipment and procedures. While it seems some better I've put another 800 plus miles on it and still have a terribly handling machine. 4 hour ride this morning -part city and part interstate- had me feeling totally exhausted. Just wondering if anyone else has had problems getting their machine to ride properly. I'll be getting back with the dealer first thing they open Tuesday morning. Thanks for listening.

I also have a 2013 RT, and had experienced severe handling issues upon delivery. My particular dealer was far behind the knowledge base curve and I had to lead them most of the way. Finally, patience at an end, I involved BRP's customer service department. I'll not go into all of the detail, but BRP installed new ball joints and alligned the machine. Following the BRP factory "fix" (as opposed to the dealer fixing it), the machine drives straight and true. In fact, it's a delight to drive.

I understand your position and you have my sincere sympathy. It would appear to me that your dealer has somehow, someway, overlooked something. BRP's factory recommended fix DOES work, and I can attest to that.

Perhaps it is time to get BRP directly involved with your dealers service department and get a thorough second opinion on the work that has been done on your machine.

I recommend calling BRP and asking them to "open a case number" for you so that they can begin the follow up. Try phone number 888-272-9222. Hundreds of 2013's have already been successfully modified so I am confident that there is a "for sure" fix for yours.

Go to thread http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ent-procedures for more detail on procedures SPECIFIC to the 2013's (maybe your dealer is stuck on the 2012 page?).

 

[jsore6465]

relax your grip

My dealer installed the upgraded ball joints before delivery. I rode for 300 miles and decided that my inability to keep the bike centered in my lane was not me. Took it back to the dealer and got an alignment using(I was told) the new equipment and procedures. While it seems some better I've put another 800 plus miles on it and still have a terribly handling machine. 4 hour ride this morning -part city and part interstate- had me feeling totally exhausted. Just wondering if anyone else has had problems getting their machine to ride properly. I'll be getting back with the dealer first thing they open Tuesday morning. Thanks for listening.

relax your grip will help i have just got my 2013 rt traded 2011 and the new one is so much better i love it. great improvement from 2011

 

[CurrantRyder]

grip is not the problem

relax your grip will help i have just got my 2013 rt traded 2011 and the new one is so much better i love it. great improvement from 2011

The documented handling issues have nothing to do with rider grip.

 

[ARtraveler]

Sorry to hear of your handling issues. Most people who have had the ball joint switch have reported they are very happy with their new 2013's after the fix.

You don't mention if you are a new or an experienced :ani29: ryder. For SOME, overcontrol has been a problem with causing the :spyder2: to go all over the road. I am not saying that is the problem in your situation.

There are a lot of :spyder2: owners in FL. Maybe you could hook up with one and they could check out the bike concerning the handling issues. Otherwise, it sounds like a trip back to the dealer may be in order.

Any vehicle with a mind of its own can prove to be very unsafe. Please keep us posted and let us know what transpires.

 

[spyder-dude]

I think I would recommend getting another dealer to look at this issue! I agree it is a problem with the alignment being done properly. I have talked to several 2013 RT owners that had similar issues and was fixed once the proper alignment was done.

 

[Bob Denman]

For SOME, overcontrol has been a problem with causing the :spyder2: to go all over the road. I am not saying that is the problem in your situation.

There are a lot of :spyder2: owners in FL. Maybe you could hook up with one and they could check out the bike concerning the handling issues. Otherwise, it sounds like a trip back to the dealer may be in order.

:agree: It wouldn't be wrong to put a second set of eyeballs on the issue... I remember when I first hit the saddle and headed for home; it took me a couple of miles to figure out that I was trying to over-control the bike in the lane. Once I relaxed; the ride got easier... :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

If you are very new to the Spyder, operator input error cannot be ruled out. To find out if this is your problem I suggest test riding another Spyder. If the problem goes away then it is your Spyder that is creating the issue.

The trouble here is dealer credibility. Did they really do a proper alignment? The end results would say no. It is known that some 2013's did not come from the factory with a correct alignment, some came with faulty ball joints, and some came with both.

Anytime you change out ball joints the alignment should at least be checked. With the Spyder, checking the alignment is really the same procedure as doing the alignment (minus actual adjustment). In other words, you have to perform the entire setup for alignment adjustment just to see if it needs aligning. This is a fairly complicated and involved process and huge incentive for the dealer to 'Fudge' the truth just a bit. There are no shortcuts, you can't guess, ball-park or tinker with any hope of getting it right.

Anything less than a full on alignment is like trying to hit the bulls-eye by shooting from the hip. It only happens in the movies.

Without knowing anymore than I do about this I'd say you still need an alignment, regardless of what your dealer says.

Hang in there. Once your Spyder is right you'll be glad you did.

 

[cbell1]

Thanks and update...

Thanks for all of your responses. I called BRP today and they're still closed for Easter holiday. My dealer is closed so I called another dealer. I have an appointment with that dealer Tuesday morning for an evaluation. In the meantime, they asked if I ride 2-up and I replied all the time. They suggested I try 13-15 lbs. front pressure and also increase the rear shock pressure because a passenger's weight will unload the front and make it more twitchy or harder to control. I previously tried 15, 20 and then 18 lbs. up front with not much difference noted. I pointed out that the tire manufacturer recommends 15 psi minimum even though BRP says 15 lbs. +/- 2. So I don't want to try anything below 15. I tried their theory this morning by myself and it seemed to help but the problem is still there. I'll update after my evaluation by them tomorrow morning.

 

[Bob Denman]

Good Luck! :thumbup:

 

[jerpinoy]

When everything is checked with spec. hopefully you'll be happy and enjoy your side with confidence.

This forum will lead you the right way. The more you ride the better you learn your:spyder2:Good luck.

 

[MouthPiece]

Where in Florida are you? I'm in Sanford. If you're anywhere nearby, give me a PM. (Private Message).

Chris

 

[Chupaca]

Good luck..!

Will wait to hear how it goes with the new eye inspection. First I've heard of the fixes not solving the problems the 2013's have been having. Hope it is simple and fast it really :cus: to be dealing with this still...ray:

 

[rabtech]

I still have issues with mine. It pulls to the right and is still very darty. It is better but it isn't correct yet. I just haven't updated my post (click on my name on the right and find my 32,000.00 piece of junk post). I am afraid that BRP is fixing to have a huge lawsuit on their hands. They are trying to cover the problem by changing ball joints. ITS NOT THE BALL JOINTS. Or at least that is not "ALL" the problems. I don't care about hearing that they need to educate the dealers. If they have this big of a problem then they need to get a few people on the road and go to every dealer and teach them how to do whatever it takes to rectify the problems. And also this is a spoiler alert. My bike still sucks.

Anyway , I hope you get it fixed. But dont let them tell you it is "just the way a spyder handles" . Ride another one and if it is better than yours then yours still sucks. Cut and dry....

I rode two new ones the other day and they were flawless. I could damn near slide the rear tire in a turn it handled so well. I get on mine and it darts all over the turn. At this moment I hate everything except the radio on mine.

 

[rabtech]

Will wait to hear how it goes with the new eye inspection. First I've heard of the fixes not solving the problems the 2013's have been having. Hope it is simple and fast it really :cus: to be dealing with this still...ray:

you really didnt say that did you. :roflblack:

 

[NancysToy]

I still have issues with mine. It pulls to the right and is still very darty. It is better but it isn't correct yet. I just haven't updated my post (click on my name on the right and find my 32,000.00 piece of junk post). I am afraid that BRP is fixing to have a huge lawsuit on their hands. They are trying to cover the problem by changing ball joints. ITS NOT THE BALL JOINTS. Or at least that is not "ALL" the problems. I don't care about hearing that they need to educate the dealers. If they have this big of a problem then they need to get a few people on the road and go to every dealer and teach them how to do whatever it takes to rectify the problems. And also this is a spoiler alert. My bike still sucks.

Anyway , I hope you get it fixed. But dont let them tell you it is "just the way a spyder handles" . Ride another one and if it is better than yours then yours still sucks. Cut and dry....

I rode two new ones the other day and they were flawless. I could damn near slide the rear tire in a turn it handled so well. I get on mine and it darts all over the turn. At this moment I hate everything except the radio on mine.

I would have to agree 100% with everything you say. I'd say it was time for you to contact BRP Customer Service. Let them guide this through the system. Is there another dealer you could visit?

 

[BajaRon]

Thanks for all of your responses. I called BRP today and they're still closed for Easter holiday. My dealer is closed so I called another dealer. I have an appointment with that dealer Tuesday morning for an evaluation. In the meantime, they asked if I ride 2-up and I replied all the time. They suggested I try 13-15 lbs. front pressure and also increase the rear shock pressure because a passenger's weight will unload the front and make it more twitchy or harder to control. I previously tried 15, 20 and then 18 lbs. up front with not much difference noted. I pointed out that the tire manufacturer recommends 15 psi minimum even though BRP says 15 lbs. +/- 2. So I don't want to try anything below 15. I tried their theory this morning by myself and it seemed to help but the problem is still there. I'll update after my evaluation by them tomorrow morning.

Running a too low tire pressure simply helps to mask the problem, not solve it. And you're going to introduce other issues running less than 15 lbs. in your front tires. 18 PSI 2 up is probably a good pressure. BRP has always recommended a too low pressure (as do may cars). This gives you a smoother, softer ride (and helps to sell the vehicle they say) but it isn't optimal for anything else.

Good luck. Hope they quit trying to cover the problem up and just fix what is wrong with it.

 

[bullant12]

I just got my 2013 RT back from the dealer after changing the ball joints. All I can say is WOW!!! I love it!!! Totally different machine, exactly what I was expecting when I made my trade! I took her (in the rain) to a few curvy streets I use to drive around, pushed her to 55 mph on a straight road. NO TWITCHING!!:yes::yes: I am no engineer by any means, but I believe that was the issue.:thumbup:

 

[JkRbbt]

:clap::clap::thumbup::yes::yes:

As you can tell, I got the new ball joints installed! Put 50 miles of up/down/left/right/fast slow/rough/smooth on her and she handled like a dream! Of course, we are now looking at a week of cold and rain, but I can now look forward to good weather with anticipation rather than anxiety! WooHoo!