I recently purchased a 2013 spyder RT SES5. I am 74 andwith back pain and needed to get off 2 wheels. My ride has 18,500 miles on it, looks like new and runs great except when I start it up and shift into first gear. I have read a lot of posts on this site that points to a change in clutch material starting in 2013 and related clutch chatter. From what I read it is considered normal. Hard to believe. I am wondering if anyone has any current information about this problem. Was it ever fixed. Do I need to do anything to keep from a major failure? Hoping someone who has experienced this has a solution. Thanks for any help.
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2013 rt clutch chatter help
- Thread starter JimmyD
- Start date
Joel The Biker
Member
It is normal on 2013's. My dads 2013 chatters until it warms up a bit. It was really bad the day we brought it home because the previous owner hadnt ridden it in a while. My theory is the clutch dries out a bit on the part of the clutch that isnt sitting in oil. But after it runs a bit and gets the clutch plates oiled up it smooths out. I havent seen anything about it shortening clutch life. The best practice seems to be starting it and letting it idle for 5 min before the first ride of the day.
SpyderJerry
Member
You want to get the clutch to engage as soon as possible when starting out cold. RPM's need to be above 2500 to make sure it is fully engaged. I have the same spyder. Letting it warm up a little as suggested does help.
SpyderAnn01
Active member
And make sure you keep your RPM up, the v-twin needs to be run over 4000 RPM
wingit3611
Member
My clutch also chatters when I take off if I don't let it warm up some first. The more it warms up the less it chatters. At operating tempeture it is smooth and normal. Just need to warm up. Shift into first at Idle speed. Shift on the road at 3500 or 4000 when you get use to the Frike (2 wheels in front trike)
Jeriatric
Thinks out loud
Sir, you'll need to do more than try. If you don't get in the habit of keeping the RPM's above 4,000 you will be replacing the clutch, sooner, rather than later. The SE clutch does not totally lock until it is at, at least 3,750 RPM. Your Rotax V twin LOVES HIGH RPM's so ride it like it likes it, instead of what you may think it likes.
It's RPM split is about 1,000 RPM when shifting up or down . Meaning you shouldn't shift up...first to second...second to third...etc. until its RPM are at or above 5,000.
Manual downshifts at about 4,000 RPM will spin it back up to 5,000 RPM.
Also, maintaining at least 5,000 RPM will keep you in the power band should you need to use the throttle in an evasive move.
The Rotax motor you're Spyder runs was tuned for use in the Spyder, but comes from racing heritage.
Keep the RPM's UP - you won't hurt it.
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