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2013 Can Am Spyder RT...Thoughts?

Zanico

New member
I posted a question earlier in the week about mileage on a 2014 RT and received a lot of wisdom form you guys. Well that turned out to be a manual and I want the Semi-Auto, so back to the search.
Now I'm looking at a 2013 RT. It only has 3,300 miles, and from my previous question, that may be problematic. But, are there any other things about a 2013 RT that I should be concerned about? Again, this is my first venture into the Spyder world coming from a two wheeler and my knowledge is very limited at this time. I appreciate any and all help.
 
I posted a question earlier in the week about mileage on a 2014 RT and received a lot of wisdom form you guys. Well that turned out to be a manual and I want the Semi-Auto, so back to the search.
Now I'm looking at a 2013 RT. It only has 3,300 miles, and from my previous question, that may be problematic. But, are there any other things about a 2013 RT that I should be concerned about? Again, this is my first venture into the Spyder world coming from a two wheeler and my knowledge is very limited at this time. I appreciate any and all help.

Well in reality the Semi-Auto is a MANUAL with the added electronic shifting parts ..... The 2013 RT was originally Designed for the 1330 engine/trans .... however BRP couldn't get enough 1330 engines so they shoe-horned the old V-twin back in ...... because the Frame was still for the 1330 set-up ... the V-twin wasn't a great fit ..... and it ended up having Heat issues, that required extra tupperware for a partial fix ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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Yes, if the heat recall was performed it will be as good as any 998 model. The 2013 had several upgrades from previous years and should be considered if looking into used RT. The 1330 models have their advantages as they were newer models but there is nothing WRONG with a 2010-2013 RT.
 
Was this fix a free recall? Do you think I would still be able to get it after all this time if it was never done?
 
As others have said, with the vent kit installed, it's probably OK.

Nevertheless, if you have a choice of any vehicle, why take any chance if you don't need to.

This is one of the reasons that the vent kit recall was started.

https://youtu.be/75RPJOp36ts

You'd be better off getting a 2014 or newer in order to get the 1330 triple.
 
Was this fix a free recall? Do you think I would still be able to get it after all this time if it was never done?

Here's a link to the actual document. You can read through it for yourself.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PEqtY-MZ0ljZ_vfahy1FvL_d_dqpW5EM/view?usp=sharing

A lot more was done to the 2013 for the recall, than just add scoops. But, that's one way you can tell just by looking at it that the recall was performed. Otherwise, you could run the VIN. Personally, I've been on here for 8 years and owned the V-Twin power plant for 8 years. We've grown and learned together. The V-Twins can be quirky. Some are bullet proof and some act up every week. You're not going to be happy if you are on here every other week wanting to know about the latest code that it just threw at you, learning all about vacuum hoses, canisterectomies, the smell of gas, or why your shift linkage just fell off. This machine you're looking at just may have so few miles on it for a good reason. People are really falling in love with the 2020 / 2021 machines. I think you'll see more used 2014's and newer hitting the used market. If you have the financial resources, I'd stick with the 2014 and newer.
 
But if you dont have the finances, the VFtwins are great. I love mine.It has been as reliable as a stone for 60,000 miles. It is comfortable, a fun ride and has taken me on many a good ride. The major drawbacks on a VTwin are bad fuel mileage, only a 5 speed , frequent service, valve adjustments. These are things you can't change. Execpt the valve adjustments, I and many others do not think these are necessary and I dont plan on doing one until 75,000 miles. Everything else can be delt with and is not that hard. I consistantly get 30mpg which is 5 mpg better then my Goldwing trike got. 6 speed well when I started riding the best you could get was a 4 speed and one bike was a 3 speed:yikes: I like my VTwin and it should be good for 100,000 miles. At 8-10,000 miles a year my currant rate I'll be over 80 by then,who knows if I'll even be able to get on one.:roflblack:. Buy what you like and ride it like you stole it
 
But if you dont have the finances, the VFtwins are great. I love mine.It has been as reliable as a stone for 60,000 miles. It is comfortable, a fun ride and has taken me on many a good ride. The major drawbacks on a VTwin are bad fuel mileage, only a 5 speed , frequent service, valve adjustments. These are things you can't change. Execpt the valve adjustments, I and many others do not think these are necessary and I dont plan on doing one until 75,000 miles. Everything else can be delt with and is not that hard. I consistantly get 30mpg which is 5 mpg better then my Goldwing trike got. 6 speed well when I started riding the best you could get was a 4 speed and one bike was a 3 speed:yikes: I like my VTwin and it should be good for 100,000 miles. At 8-10,000 miles a year my currant rate I'll be over 80 by then,who knows if I'll even be able to get on one.:roflblack:. Buy what you like and ride it like you stole it

" Valve adjustment " - there are 100's if not thousands of folks here who have not had them done ..... I didn't with my V-twins .... millions of Spyder miles have shown the Valves really don't need adjustment ... it's a BRP - CYA thing as far as i'm concerned ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
I bought my 2013 RTL in May this year and I got the recalls done by the dealer in July. The reason was they had to order and wait for the parts to come. After that, no more heat issues no more fuel smell.
 
We've had our 2013 since 2016. Bought it with just over 6000 miles on it and have averaged about 6000 miles a year, until this year. Ours has had all the recall work done and I've replaced the vacuum hoses with silicone hoses from NAPA. Only had one problem with it so far and we have no problems with heat or gas smells. We get about 30-32 MPG riding two up, just depends on the way and places that we ride...............lots of hills vs. flat and sporty vs. laid back style of riding. If you come across a good deal on a nice 2013 don't be afraid to get it! They are a blast and sound waaaaaaaaay better than the triple.
 
From a practical standpoint, exclusive of the modifications the governments, U.S. and Canadian, required BRP to make because of the "fire bomb" problem, and recognizing that a '13 RT with the required modifications can be a fun, reliable machine, here are some things you're facing that cause me to agree with ThreeWheels that you MIGHT be better off looking at a '14 or later RT. If you're mechanically inclined and capable you can save a lot of shekels in the DIY mode, but the maintenance/repairs is still going to have to be done by someone as some cost.

1. You're looking at a soon to be eight year old vehicle on which you may be looking at aged tire replacement as well as vacuum hoses that may require replacement. If the machine isn't ridden frequently enough you also face the possible problem of leaking seals that will require replacement. Of course you could always park it next to an old Harley and no one would be the wiser from the puddles left on the pavement.

2. Maintenance-wise here are some frequency intervals you will face:
a. Oil and filter change: 2013 - 4,600 mi or annually; 2014 - 9,300 mi or annually.
b. HCM filter change: 2013 - 4,600 mi; 2014 - 28,000 mi.
c. Coolant change: 2013 - 14,000 mi or every 2 years; 2014 -28,000 mi or every 5 years (both, whichever comes
first, mi or yrs).
d. Adjust valves: 2013 - 14,000 mi (most not needed); 2014 - never, hydraulic lifters.
e. Replace spark plugs: 2013 - 14,000 mi; 2014 - 28,000 mi (both can go farther with good iridium plugs).
f. Replace fuel filter: 2013 - 19,000 mi; 2014 - 28,000 mi.

On the road here are the big advantages of a '14 RT over a '13: better gas mileage; more low end torque; hydraulic clutch lock up vs centrifugal, i.e., you don't have to keep the '14 revved up to have the clutch fully engaged; it locks up as soon as you twist the throttle even a little bit.

The bottom line: if BRP thought the V-twin engine was still state of the art they would still be delivering Spyders with it.
 
Thank you so much for that breakdown. Kind of seems like a "no brainer", providing I can find one at a reasonable price.
Thanks again for all the valuable info I'm getting from you folks.
 
I bought a new 13RTL and still would have it today if my hips would not have started hurting. It was a great machine and never gave me any trouble. I would buy another, if my hips would agree!
 
Here's an example: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?134768-2014-RT-Limited, barely broken in, < 5K/yr, but I prefer no chrome. Search the FSBO forum. Remember, farkle value is in the eye of the buyer; sellers always overvalue them. RT Ltds came with a Garmin GPS standard through MY '17. If you're willing to travel some you might be able to score a very satisfactory deal.

Yes I saw this one. Don't think I could talk the wife into traveling from Ohio to Texas to look at it. :dontknow:
 
Keep looking, there will be more on the market as fall approaches. I had an '11 RT.....liked a lot about it after all the recalls and problems were attended too, but changing those two oil filters were a pain in the arse every 4K or so.
 
Of the six spyders I have owned and coming up on almost 170,000 total miles driven...

I have had four 998 twin cylinders and two 1330 three cylinders.

Me personally, I prefer the 1330. Quieter, less maintenance, 10 mpg better than the 998. It likes to be driven at 3500 rpms compared to 5500 for the 998's.

Mechanically, I have never had a major problem with either version. The 998's are now discontinued by BRP, so parts could be an issue.
 
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