2012 Spyder RT With Sun Damaged Plastic/Trim - any fixes?

[SylverSpyderRT]

Hey folks,

Looking for advice on the best way to cosmetically address UV damaged plastic and body panels. The worst of it are the panels by the passenger grips as they are now some ugly shade of gray with lots of white chalk marks. Dash panels are not as bad but do show wear. Man, do they scratch easily. Even a fingernail creates more damage. Rear and side panels are sound, just dull and lifeless.

I have seen auto detailers use dye on bumpers and trim but I wonder how long that stuff lasts or how well it penetrates. Our RT is silver and having a rich matte black finish on these parts would really make it pop. Very DIY and looking to do the restorations myself. BTW, has BRP improved the quality of these panels in later years?

 

[GeorgeXP700]

I have used Kiwi black shoe DYE. Couple of coats and it looks brand new. But… if the plastic has deteriorated to the point it scratches easily best bet is to replace. Trying to rejuvenate old plastic sometimes can be more problem than worth.

 

[Piratezz]

We need pictures, but for dull plastics, specially rubber, or matte, a solution that worked for me, is using a hairdryer, this will liven up the matte finish, you can also use a little more heat from a paintstripper, fohn.
But use caution, not overheating the plastics, use a waving motion, where you go over the panel, to be sure not to put to much heat on one place.

For matte finishes, there aren't that much cleaning solutions, the ones that are out, will make it more look like a wetlook...

 

[RICZ]

Get some BACK TO BLACK at an auto supply store. It works wonders on plastic. Maybe GeorgeXP700 would like to try it on his shoes.:dontknow:

 

[Eviltwin]

You could also try the plasti dip sprays. It's a rubberized coating, so I imagine it wont go on too shiny and should stick to the plastic as long as its cleaned and free of any oil or wax.

 

[GeorgeXP700]

I’ve been using the shoe dye for over twenty years. It works and it lasts. Don’t knock it until you have tried it.

 

[rgus]

We go to Fl for a few weeks in the winter to escape the northern cold. I had preordered a new Sea to Sky so we though we would hit a couple dealers just to see what we could see. I was appalled at the sun damage to the plastic on a lot of the bikes. I would assume that would take years and years setting outside to do that kind of damage.

 

[SpyderJerry]

Of all the different black plastic restorers I have used, this is the only one that worked and after a year still looks fantastic. https://idscarcare.com/products/sol...l Restorer - 1 oz. | Solution Finish | $19.99

 

[SylverSpyderRT]

Appreciate all the suggestions. Here are photos of what I'm working with. Thought about replacing the panels but it's more cost effective for me to try dye, paint, or heat.

- - - -

 

[FrogmanDave]

Click here There are a bunch of videos on YouTube of the Lithium Graphene Trim Cubes. They work wonders. But, restoration of plastic that damaged is going to be very difficult.

Plasti-Dip collects dirt very badly and does not hold up. Especially in places where it receives rubbing. Like motorcycle plastic.

 

[Quickdraw]

I hear Skim33 and 303 Aerospace Protectant work well.

 

[nazdackster]

I used Wipe-New on my F350 plastic. It looks new and 1 year later looks almost but not quite as good, quite durable. Comes in packets with 6 wet pads. 1 pad will do your whole machine and more, so maybe find a car with some faded trim and get that all ready to coat too. It smells like bug spray for a day or so but looks wet and black instantly, though it is a clear product. Wear gloves, don't get on your paint or chrome. I will definitely use it again. One thing I noticed is that I had some water spots on the bumper plastic when I started, and now those are starting to show. So as a precaution, I would suggest washing the plastic with some CLR, rinse, dry so you know there are no calcium stains under the stuff before you start. Got mine on Amazon. Some other products (like 303) might look great, but start to fade almost the first day. This stuff will last a LONG time.

 

[SylverSpyderRT]

I went with SpyderJerry's suggestion on using Solution Finish and the results have been dramatic. Will have before and after photos when finished.

 

[WingmanRT]

I am thinking of painting the sun damaged fairing around my headlights. Only a few years old and looks horrible. If I can get it off, I am thinking of getting it painted a nice gloss black. Any ideas?

 

[CopperSpyder]

I am thinking of painting the sun damaged fairing around my headlights. Only a few years old and looks horrible. If I can get it off, I am thinking of getting it painted a nice gloss black. Any ideas?

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Just get some Mothers Back to Black. Get it at Amazon, Walmart or any auto parts store.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

https://www.amazon.com/CERAKOTE-Ceramic-Trim-Coat-Kit/dp/B07SHJVK4G?ref_=ast_sto_dp

 

[Peter Aawen]

I am thinking of painting the sun damaged fairing around my headlights. Only a few years old and looks horrible. If I can get it off, I am thinking of getting it painted a nice gloss black. Any ideas?

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I wouldn't!! :yikes:

Once you paint it, you're stuck with keeping that paint looking good, and that's going to require far more effort than for just about any other finish, AND it'll likely always look tacky anyway!! Most 'paint over black plastic' finishes always do, especially those that are exposed & prone to weathering! :gaah:

Besides all those other great products mentioned ^^ especially those tried & tested on Spyders by the Owners &/or our Sponsors that are particularly suited to Spyders/Rykers, there are quite a few vids on utube out there showing how you can rejuvenate the weathered surface on most coloured plastic finishes with the judicious application of heat/flame - just a couple of light passes with a blow torch/gas flame & the surface looks brand new again!! hyea: In my experience with doing that, you'll probably need to do it again in 5-10 years or so, depending on how exposed to harsh sunlight and weather it is :sour: But then, depending upon where you are over there, you lot tend to get juuust a little less harsh sunlight/weathering over in that part of the world than we do here in Oz, so maybe not?? :dontknow:

So for my 2 bob's worth, I REALLY wouldn't even consider painting it, not when there's so many better options out there! :thumbup:

Just Sayin'

 

[WingmanRT]

I wouldn't!! :yikes:

Once you paint it, you're stuck with keeping that paint looking good, and that's going to require far more effort than for just about any other finish, AND it'll likely always look tacky anyway!! Most 'paint over black plastic' finishes always do, especially those that are exposed & prone to weathering! :gaah:

Besides all those other great products mentioned ^^ especially those tried & tested on Spyders by the Owners &/or our Sponsors that are particularly suited to Spyders/Rykers, there are quite a few vids on utube out there showing how you can rejuvenate the weathered surface on most coloured plastic finishes with the judicious application of heat/flame - just a couple of light passes with a blow torch/gas flame & the surface looks brand new again!! hyea: In my experience with doing that, you'll probably need to do it again in 5-10 years or so, depending on how exposed to harsh sunlight and weather it is :sour: But then, depending upon where you are over there, you lot tend to get juuust a little less harsh sunlight/weathering over in that part of the world than we do here in Oz, so maybe not?? :dontknow:

So for my 2 bob's worth, I REALLY wouldn't even consider painting it, not when there's so many better options out there! :thumbup:

Just Sayin'

Thanks. I tried the Mothers, Cerakote, and a heat gun (and about every black restorative on the market). The heat gun helped the finish temporarily. I agree about the painting, mostly because I have found the part numbers and pricing from BRP. The 4 parts needed come to about $260, much less than I could probably get it removed and painted. I am considering replacing the parts myself if I can find some instructions. The left and right hand console fairings & headlight central fairing seem fairly straight forward, but the upper console fairing looks a little intimidating. The whole replacement will involve taking most of the Tupperware, windshield, and both mirrors off. I've replaced the windshield with a custom one, so that is easy-peazy. That upper console (dash board under the windshield looks a bit more complex.