2012 RTS SM5 rough idle, rough acceleration issue!

[NoJive]

I noticed a couple weeks ago that my RT would sometimes not accelerate smoothly and would stutter a bit, I guess you could say. A bit hard to explain. Thinking it might be gas related, I filled up the tank with new gas, and have noticed no difference. I have also noticed that sometimes when I come to a stop, the idle drops down to say 1100-1200 rpm, and is rough. Usually when this happens, it will die when I try to rev it. Odd thing is, after it restarts, it settles down to it's normal 1400'ish rpm. This does not happen all the time though. I went on a quick 30 minute ride yesterday, and it ran like a top. Went back out a couple hours later, and it was running like crap.

I'm wondering if this could be vacuum hose related, as I have seen that is an issue on RTs. I'll pull the tupperware and check them, but does anyone else have any other suggestions? Thanks!

 

[jtoro1]

I noticed a couple weeks ago that my RT would sometimes not accelerate smoothly and would stutter a bit, I guess you could say. A bit hard to explain. Thinking it might be gas related, I filled up the tank with new gas, and have noticed no difference. I have also noticed that sometimes when I come to a stop, the idle drops down to say 1100-1200 rpm, and is rough. Usually when this happens, it will die when I try to rev it. Odd thing is, after it restarts, it settles down to it's normal 1400'ish rpm. This does not happen all the time though. I went on a quick 30 minute ride yesterday, and it ran like a top. Went back out a couple hours later, and it was running like crap.

I'm wondering if this could be vacuum hose related, as I have seen that is an issue on RTs. I'll pull the tupperware and check them, but does anyone else have any other suggestions? Thanks!

Maybe spark plug and wires Baja Ron sells a good set of wires and spark plugs

 

[NoJive]

That was something else I was thinking of. I have around 7000 miles on it, you think the plugs/wires would go bad that soon?

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[Chupaca]

Little checking..

I would start with the vaccum lines to the throttle body. They often look good but have a tendency to act up with different temp and rpm's...:gaah:

look to be good

but starting to go. Get the silicone hose and cut to the same length....

 

[SpyderAnn01]

If those suggestions don't fix it take a look at the purge valve. I had one go bad and the symptoms were the same as you describe.

 

[NoJive]

Thanks! I'll start with the vacuum lines, and go from there!

 

[jtoro1]

That was something else I was thinking of. I have around 7000 miles on it, you think the plugs/wires would go bad that soon?

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Too early for a spark plugs but maybe wires but most likely vacuum hoses

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: Those hoses are the most likely culprit! :thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

I had a similar problem with my 2010 RT-S. The idle and performance would go crappy from time to time. Getting the bike wet (as in washing or riding through a rainstorm) would usually initiate it.

Took to dealer and they could not find the problem.

A couple months later, they did a servicing and washed the bike. Instantly, the problem surfaced. Turned out that I had a bare spot on a spark plug wire (caused by rubbing on something?). The wetness caused a short and they replaced the plug wires and the problem went away.

Possible solution????? :bbq::bbq::bbq:

 

[NoJive]

I had a similar problem with my 2010 RT-S. The idle and performance would go crappy from time to time. Getting the bike wet (as in washing or riding through a rainstorm) would usually initiate it.

Took to dealer and they could not find the problem.

A couple months later, they did a servicing and washed the bike. Instantly, the problem surfaced. Turned out that I had a bare spot on a spark plug wire (caused by rubbing on something?). The wetness caused a short and they replaced the plug wires and the problem went away.

Possible solution????? :bbq::bbq::bbq:

Interesting, but I don't think so in my case. Since the problem has cropped up, I haven't had the bike wet. Leaning towards hoses, but I did read in the service manual that a faulty O2 sensor could cause this as well. Hoses were a $5 part though, so I'll start there! Haha!

 

[NoJive]

I will say that I love my RT, BUT my '08 GS gave me zero problems in the 4 years I owned it. I bought it with 10k on the odo, and when I sold it, it had 19k on it. The RT that I currently have, I bought last May with 5k on the odo. I've only put maybe 1k miles on it so far, and it seems like there is always something going on!

Fixed:

• 
  [*=1]Horrible rattle in the front suspension, turned out to be sway bar brackets.
  [*=1]Suspension compressor kept blowing the fuse, replaced with the Viair one, so far so good.
  [*=1]Clutch fluid leaking, replaced o-rings.

Dealing with:

• 
  [*=1]Horrid brake noise when reversing. I know it's a common issue, but never happened on the GS.
  [*=1]That blasted squeaky belt noise!!!!
  [*=1]Electronic frunk latch never worked, don't mind using the key though.
  [*=1]Did I mention the belt noise??

Sorry, I just had to vent! I do love the RT, and I guess it is teaching me how to wrench, but I'd really like to not worry about it!!

 

[NoJive]

Going to dive into this this weekend. I looked in the service manual, but I must be missing something, as I can't find a clear pic of where the vacuum lines are that I need to check/replace. Anyone got a pic or diagram that would help?

 

[NoJive]

Found the issue!

That was the front vacuum hose that goes right across the cylinder. I can see why that one fails!

For further reference, the hoses are on the left side. You'll need to take off the mirror, upper and lower panels, as well as this black guard.

You can see one of the hoses here.

Probably should replace these with the high temp silicone ones, but I just used normal hose. I got a 6' pack at the auto parts store for $5, but you'll only need about 8" as each hose section is about 4" long. The front one is a bit hard to get to, but not bad. You'll find the old hoses slide off the plastic nipple fine, but get stuck on the metal nipples. A good trick is to remove the hose from the plastic one, then twist it off the metal. This breaks the stiction (yes, I made up that word, but it's a good one) easily, and allows it to slide right off.

Glad to say she is running better than she ever has now!


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[M109Dreamer]

Found the issue!

That was the front vacuum hose that goes right across the cylinder. I can see why that one fails!

For further reference, the hoses are on the left side. You'll need to take off the mirror, upper and lower panels, as well as this black guard.

You can see one of the hoses here.

Probably should replace these with the high temp silicone ones, but I just used normal hose. I got a 6' pack at the auto parts store for $5, but you'll only need about 8" as each hose section is about 4" long. The front one is a bit hard to get to, but not bad. You'll find the old hoses slide off the plastic nipple fine, but get stuck on the metal nipples. A good trick is to remove the hose from the plastic one, then twist it off the metal. This breaks the stiction (yes, I made up that word, but it's a good one) easily, and allows it to slide right off.

Glad to say she is running better than she ever has now!


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Thanks for the pic's, the wifes started having issues last weekend of not down shifting automatically. I have the new hoses already. Gonna do this hopefully next weekend.

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[BajaRon]

I will say that I love my RT, BUT my '08 GS gave me zero problems in the 4 years I owned it. I bought it with 10k on the odo, and when I sold it, it had 19k on it. The RT that I currently have, I bought last May with 5k on the odo. I've only put maybe 1k miles on it so far, and it seems like there is always something going on!

Fixed:

• 
  [*=1]Horrible rattle in the front suspension, turned out to be sway bar brackets.
  [*=1]Suspension compressor kept blowing the fuse, replaced with the Viair one, so far so good.
  [*=1]Clutch fluid leaking, replaced o-rings.

Dealing with:

• 
  [*=1]Horrid brake noise when reversing. I know it's a common issue, but never happened on the GS.
  [*=1]That blasted squeaky belt noise!!!!
  [*=1]Electronic frunk latch never worked, don't mind using the key though.
  [*=1]Did I mention the belt noise??

Sorry, I just had to vent! I do love the RT, and I guess it is teaching me how to wrench, but I'd really like to not worry about it!!

Have you tried...

... On your Squeaky Brakes?

Have you tried a dab of grease on your noisy belt? (Is the belt running against the inside or outside pulley lip?

 

[Bob Denman]

Glad to hear that you found and fixed the problem! :clap: :congrats:

 

[NoJive]

Have you tried...

... On your Squeaky Brakes?

Have you tried a dab of grease on your noisy belt? (Is the belt running against the inside or outside pulley lip?

No, I haven't tried the disc break quiet, but I will whenever I change them. It really only does it when reversing, so I don't mind it.

Now the belt....I've tried greasing it, and that works for a couple days. Granted, I'me using synthetic grease, and not the recommended BRP stuff. Belt seems to be off of the pulley sides, so I don't think that is the issue. BUT, now that you mentioned that, I do have a Missing Belt Guard installed. I may check that to see if it is causing it.

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[NoJive]

Glad to hear that you found and fixed the problem! :clap: :congrats:

Thanks!

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