2012 RT Won't Start with full battery, keeps resetting computer

[spidergreg]

To my surprise...

Well, after trying everything that you guys said, I went and bought a new battery and installed it and viola! She started! I was so afraid that I was just buying a battery for nothing since the battery was only 2 years old, and even jumping the bike did not start it. BUT bike started with the new battery and we took a short 20 mile ride and realized just how much we missed riding. We will be riding for the next two weeks until my third knee surgery on June 27th (actually knee replacement, third in 8 months on the same leg).

Thanks again for all of your responses and be safe riding!

 

[ottawa-rider]

As others have mentioned above, if you have not done so yet and you'll be laid up for some time once again, you should invest in a battery maintainer (Battery Tender).

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Well, after trying everything that you guys said, I went and bought a new battery and installed it and viola! She started! I was so afraid that I was just buying a battery for nothing since the battery was only 2 years old, and even jumping the bike did not start it. BUT bike started with the new battery and we took a short 20 mile ride and realized just how much we missed riding. We will be riding for the next two weeks until my third knee surgery on June 27th (actually knee replacement, third in 8 months on the same leg).

Thanks again for all of your responses and be safe riding!

FYI if and when this happens again. If the battery voltage drops below 10.5 when you hit the starter the computer pukes and gives you the black screen. Things ain't like what they used to be. There was a time if the battery voltage was enough to crank the motor the car or bike would probably start. At 10.5 volts the battery would probably crank the engine but the computer controls everything, even the starting process. If it drops below 10.5 you're done for!!

 

[billybovine]

FYI if and when this happens again. If the battery voltage drops below 10.5 when you hit the starter the computer pukes and gives you the black screen. Things ain't like what they used to be. There was a time if the battery voltage was enough to crank the motor the car or bike would probably start. At 10.5 volts the battery would probably crank the engine but the computer controls everything, even the starting process. If it drops below 10.5 you're done for!!

I was wondering where you got the 10.5V from. Everything I have everseen says the cluster will reboot at 10V. Batteries are considered still good if it can maintain a minimum of 10V. No fault codes are recorded unless the voltage drops below 10V.

 

[kamper]

Spyders are not the only ones that act stupid when battery gets low. My daughters yamaha R6 acted the same till we put a new batery in then it acted like a new bike so were not alone on this one. Glad to see it was an easy fix.

 

[Easy Rider]

Batteries are considered still good if it can maintain a minimum of 10V.

No they are NOT. Where did you get that from ??

A lead-acid battery that reads 10 V with no load is stone cold dead.

 

[billybovine]

No they are NOT. Where did you get that from ??

A lead-acid battery that reads 10 V with no load is stone cold dead.

I am sorry did you not read the quote I was commenting on for context. Minimum voltage of 10V during crank or load test. I was not talking about voltage at rest.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I was wondering where you got the 10.5V from. Everything I have everseen says the cluster will reboot at 10V. Batteries are considered still good if it can maintain a minimum of 10V. No fault codes are recorded unless the voltage drops below 10V.

The 10 volt number might be the right one, or at least the official one. But I'm sure when I let my battery get low one time and got the black screen I saw 10.5 on my voltmeter when I hit the starter. One of these days I'll keep the maintainer off for awhile and do another test, like maybe next fall after riding season is over!! :roflblack:

 

[billybovine]

The 10 volt number might be the right one, or at least the official one. But I'm sure when I let my battery get low one time and got the black screen I saw 10.5 on my voltmeter when I hit the starter. One of these days I'll keep the maintainer off for awhile and do another test, like maybe next fall after riding season is over!! :roflblack:

Sure. If I had a battery that load tested less then 10.5 but 10 or higher. I would replace it. That would be a personal choice.

 

[Easy Rider]

I am sorry did you not read the quote I was commenting on for context. Minimum voltage of 10V during crank or load test. I was not talking about voltage at rest.

No. I didn't make the connection. Sorry.

 

[fatenhappy]

Help, I have been down since Feb with knee surgeries but I have been starting the Spyder every couple of weeks. The other day I went out to the garage to fire up the Spyder. But, this time, it did not start. When I turn the key on, everything seems to be ok, but when I press the start button there is a click sound from the center to rear of the bike and then the bike reboots. I have generated a video of what is happening... Video

During this video I have disconnected the battery and connected a fully charged battery. Please give me any clues cause or ideas that you might have to resolve this issue. if I can't figure this out I will have to load her up and take her to the dealer 3.5hrs away. Also, please pardon the dust on my machine, I hate to see her this way, but I have been out of commission for awhile.

Mate sounds and looks just like a flat battery … (not enough current availability to be drawn to start) … I'd have to ask straight up how good was the battery you swapped over for that start? Have you had the normal battery hooked up for any sort of trickle charge to keep that battery topped off while you haven't been able to start / ride it ? … Thinking about this yet again, it being 12v will do no harm what so ever to give it a jump start to 'a known good battery' for example even if that was in your car ….. I would doubt very much for it to be mechanical as you are getting the dreaded orange message screen. What was the fault message at that time ? …. However I am still backing a flat or 'not capable' battery for your problems at this stage ...

 

[fatenhappy]

No they are NOT. Where did you get that from ??

A lead-acid battery that reads 10 V with no load is stone cold dead.

Absolutely agree … irrespective of what is written in the manual