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2012 RT sat for a while now it won't start

S

stevo62

New member
My 2012 rt sat for about 6-8 months and now when I try to start it it won't start. I siphon most of the gas out and added new gas but didn't help. The battery is new and, on a maintainer, so it cranks normally . Any ideas that ya'll would recommend would be helpful . I replaced the map sensor vacuum hose about 2 years ago so I have no problem taking panels off, I just don't know what to do ,thanks everyone
 
stevo62 said:
My 2012 rt sat for about 6-8 months and now when I try to start it it won't start. I siphon most of the gas out and added new gas but didn't help. The battery is new and, on a maintainer, so it cranks normally . Any ideas that ya'll would recommend would be helpful . I replaced the map sensor vacuum hose about 2 years ago so I have no problem taking panels off, I just don't know what to do ,thanks everyone
Click to expand...
Had you put a stabilizer in the fuel after doing the last fillup AT the gas station? On the ride home, the stabilized fuel will get into the entire fuel system.
 
stevo62 said:
My 2012 rt sat for about 6-8 months and now when I try to start it it won't start. I siphon most of the gas out and added new gas but didn't help. The battery is new and, on a maintainer, so it cranks normally . Any ideas that ya'll would recommend would be helpful . I replaced the map sensor vacuum hose about 2 years ago so I have no problem taking panels off, I just don't know what to do ,thanks everyone
Click to expand...
I just have to ask the obvious. Is the e-stop in the on or off position ? It should be on, of course.
 
Different motor but when my 15 RT didn't start I checked/changed all that stuff and it ended up needing new spark plugs. I tried to do it myself but after digging around and looking at what I had to take apart and put back together I paid the dealership to do it. Has run fine every since but I make sure to ride it every week to hopefully not have this happen again. You can't let man made stuff sit up because it is guaranteed to fall apart.
 
Will turn over but not fire:dontknow:Maybe still old gas in system somewhere, try
TWO:Throttle Wide Open :lecturef_smilie: be sure let the starter cool down between attempts or will burn out also. Good idea to inspect air box & air filter while at it.
 
Cranks but Will not Start ? ?

:chat:....Not sure about your ability to troubleshoot a Spyder. The Spyder is a tuff dog to figure out sometimes.

First off, a Service Manual is a good starting point.

If you have an Owner's Manual there is a good list of things to check.
The basics are Fuel, Air, and Ignition.

You posted on 'fresh fuel'. How old was your fuel? Did the old fuel look bad? Did you have any starting problems 6 months ago?

Diffently check out the air box and how everything looks. Hopefully no mice. Plugged Filter? Oil/fuel in the Air Box?

This is a real pistol, The Ignition System. Spyders have everything including a lot of electronic devices, while not a major issue. This is where the Service Manual is a very important tool. It helps you to understand what you are up against.
Several good Tips have been Posted. Check them out.

Sometimes an animal can make a nice nest and damage the wiring harness and or other items.
Inspect the Spyder and give us your thoughts.

Someone else may have experience a similar problem.
A good Spyder Dealer Technician can help you out, but most will charge a fee.

Good Luck on Your Mission. .....:thumbup:
 
I would open the air box take the filter out and spray just a little carb cleaner in the box and see if it will fire on that!!! There is one plug that you can get to on that motor pretty easy, maybe take it out and see if you get spark.
 
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Good suggestions from Bfromla, Little Blue and Mikey regarding air box, whether a rodent nest, clogged air filter, etc.
Then if it fires with starting fluid, it is a fuel issue. If not, then Mikey's suggestion regarding checking for spark would be the next simple diagnostic.
 
EDBLU said:
Different motor but when my 15 RT didn't start I checked/changed all that stuff and it ended up needing new spark plugs. I tried to do it myself but after digging around and looking at what I had to take apart and put back together I paid the dealership to do it. Has run fine every since but I make sure to ride it every week to hopefully not have this happen again. You can't let man made stuff sit up because it is guaranteed to fall apart.
Click to expand...

IMHO the dealer found the problem and got it running - but I have no faith that it was spark plug failure .... I have a 14 RT with 66,000 + mi. & the orig plugs ....starts and runs fine glad you got it running ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
Thank you everyone for all the suggestions and tips, I will start taking the panels off and checking to see what I find and keep y'all posted , thanks again
 
On a V twin motor, the rear cylinder plug wire is visible from the left side looking forward. Those panels are pretty easy to get off so I would start there. Once you have access, I would first rule out spark by pulling the wire off and seeing whether you have a spark with an extra plug or pull the existing plug out and leave it exposed while you or somebody else cranks the engine. Make sure you keep a foot on the brake while you crank too. I ran into that issue a while back while we were out with the camper. I can usually can start the bike without sitting on it, but that time it needed me on the seat with the pedal pushed down.

If you have spark and the brake is pushed and it still doesnt start, then get some starting fluid, not carb cleaner and see if you can get it to kick on that. On my 2010 the air filter is on the right side looking forward so that would entail pulling off those panels to get to the filter so you can shoot some starter fluid in there. You could also lift up the latches on the left side and get something to wedge it open and spray it in there as well. The idea is to get it to kick on the starter fluid some so that it can start to move the bad gas out of the injectors and the good stuff in. It will also have a tendency to want to flood, so keeping the throttle wide open while you crank will help to minimize that. And as somebody else mentioned, go easy on the starter and give it time to cool down. My guess is that you still have bad gas and it needs to be flushed out before it will start.

This is the thread I posted a while back about changing the plugs and wires. It is not an easy job, but it does show you what the engine looks likes from both sides with the tupperware off. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?127764-Winter-Maintenance-on-the-RT

Good luck and let us know what you find.
 
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