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998cc 2012 RT limited

davev1pa

Member
Hi folks
Just purchased a 2012 RTL with 3300 miles ..Pearl white, I've only put on a few miles so far.LOVE IT ! Curious..the seat felt warm when I put the handgrip warmer on ..but I couldn't tell for sure. I lifted the seat and I do see electrical wiring going up into the seat. Is this standard for the year and model? No where do I see any indication on the spec sheets that this is included or in the manual. This is the stock seat and the PO attest to this fact. They are uncertain if its heated.
Any thoughts?
Thanks Dave
 
That wire under the seat connected inside the cutout area is to detect a passenger, so the computer can adjust the system. You would see a large diameter pair of wires for a heater.
 
The V twins have sufficient heat under the seats...On the 2013 models it was really bad and BRP was forced to fix the problem due to fires...There is a BRP vent kit available that fits all Rt's from 2010 to 2019 that really helps with the heat under the Tupperware...Many of us have the kit on our 2014 (1330) and newer to relieve the heat in the glove box problem...Someone in the past week was talking about this vent kit...Do a forum search...larryd
 
Hey Dave. Yeah, I always felt that there were two undeniable truths if life about the stock V-Twin RT:

1 - You'll never be too cold on one.
2 - When in doubt, stop for gas.

When I had a stock seat, it got so hot one day I pulled over thinking that the thing was on fire underneath. Plus some of that has to do with rear end circulation...or lack there-of. Anyway, getting that RT vent kit installed will make your riding much more pleasurable as well as removing the right side underneath splash panel, and installing the upper block off plate (SpyderPops) on the radiator exhaust that blows on your right leg. Highway pegs also help get your right foot out of the way of that hot air. Please take some time and read the Do and Do Not list.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...t-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners

There are many mods you can do to make that thing your own, that also improve performance and comfort. Use the forum or Google search. Have fun. Good Luck. Ride safe.
 
The stock seat on a 2012 is not heated except incidentally by the exhaust. I have done a lot of touring on my 2012 and found the stock seat unacceptable for long periods of time. I got the gel seat insert from motorcycle dave (a sponsor here) and installed it myself and I now tour very comfortably. I just back from 1500 miles to San Diego and back. I find it to be a very good touring machine and have had lots of fun on it. I come from 50+ years on two wheels but had to go to 3. Good luck and enjoy the ride.
 
I saw the gel insert instructions as well and it seemed a bit daunting. However, the journey seems far away until you get there. I see you were a Venture Rider(assumption) I had a 86 Yamaha Venture and i did the shims on the valves, upgraded the starter, rebuilt the water pump and keep myself busy tinkering on switches and the compressor circuit board for air suspension. I had an "old" guy do the 4 carbs. I miss that bike. Now ride an 08 vision but shoulders bugged me too much so last week got the 2012 RTL with 3300 miles. It is SOOO sweeeet.
I appreciate your input !! Thanks Dave
 
I read through the do's n dont's but will probably excel on the don'ts. I'll check on the vent kits as it was only 45 degrees and I could definitely feel my right side was toasty. I appreciate the input Thanks Dave
 
Yep, no shortage of Btus under that seat. great in winter, not so much in summer. I have the heat relief kit on my 2011, don't know if BRP still offers this for our obsolescent machines and when in doubt,stop for gas.
David
 
I love my 2012 RT-S, my first bike, love the comment,

1. You’ll never be cold on one
2. When in doubt, stop for gas

This holds so true.

Ride often.
 
I saw the gel insert instructions as well and it seemed a bit daunting. However, the journey seems far away until you get there. I see you were a Venture Rider(assumption) I had a 86 Yamaha Venture and i did the shims on the valves, upgraded the starter, rebuilt the water pump and keep myself busy tinkering on switches and the compressor circuit board for air suspension. I had an "old" guy do the 4 carbs. I miss that bike. Now ride an 08 vision but shoulders bugged me too much so last week got the 2012 RTL with 3300 miles. It is SOOO sweeeet.
I appreciate your input !! Thanks Dave
Yes I was one of the original members and rode Ventures from 1986 until 2011 when I wrecked my 08 RSV. Now on 3 wheels so I finally let my membership go last year. I love my Spyder as much as I did my Ventures.
 
I read through the do's n dont's but will probably excel on the don'ts. I'll check on the vent kits as it was only 45 degrees and I could definitely feel my right side was toasty. I appreciate the input Thanks Dave

I did the vent kit on my 2012. Did make a lot of difference. You can see the mod on my ride in pictures 2 & 3 in the for sale area under 2012 Blue RTS-SM5 for sale. I had to do a little shaping with a dremel to make it fit the way I wanted it to fit.
 
You'll have to check with your dealer. There are none presently on Ebay.

BRP part # 219800388.

Time involved??? Depends on your skill level and your familiarity with your Spyder panels removal. 4-6 hours for a first timer. Technically not difficult but you got to be careful or you may ruin a panel. I used a cheap handheld jig saw cutting from the inside of the panel to enlarge the opening. I ran the saw at the slowest possible speed to prevent melting the panel.
 
Appreciate all the pics now it makes sense...any work with the underside plating or did I misunderstand another post?I also see black venting on the lower portion on both sides...is that part of this mod?IMG_0673.jpg
IMG_0672.jpg

These are the vents from the factory which are flush not raised for induction on the 2012 RT. Also theres a plastic deflector in front . Seems counter intuitive to block the inflow vent.
 
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Hey Dave. As near as I could ever understand it, that original vent, if it ever was supposed to be an inflow vent, never effectively worked that way. However, it worked really well as an outflow vent when you were standing still. But of course, what good was that. Between the engine air box and resonator, plus the added heat from the radiator fan, there was never enough natural airflow through the engine compartment to keep temperatures from damaging rubber components over a period time - not to mention what those temperatures would do to your legs, shoes, and other vital body parts.

All the chickens came home to roost in the 2013 model year RT, which prompted the recall and the development of the vent kit - among other things specific to the 2013 machine. The vent kit can be used on all model year RTs - well I'm not sure about 2020. It removes those clear deflectors and adds scoops that can effectively catch the air that streams past the body in that area and directs it under the plastic. That existing black vent grid you see stays in place. But the panel beneath that panel, called the acoustic panel, is removed and replaced with a brace.

I personally can't give you too much more information about installation because I don't use the scoops. Other folks will be able to help. Before they came out, I had installed JT's air filter which accomplishes a lot of the same thing by removing the components that block airflow under the plastic. Either solution creates much cooler air temperatures for the rider. The air filter adds the additional benefit of allowing better access to the engine area thus making maintenance easier.

Before the scoops were developed, a large number of all mods performed on the V-Twin Spyders were aimed at heat management in some way. A whole cottage industry sprang up. But for you, installing the scoops will be the biggest bang for the buck. Doc Riverside, and other members on here can give you the necessary help. Contact them. Good Luck.
 
I have installed the vents and the instructions call for the enlargement of the existing vent holes. The final area is approx. 3x the original. Much more flow. I installed the scoops on the bike and traced the inside contours with a felt marker. After that I was committed, white bike, black marker. I cut out the profile just marked with an inexpensive jig saw with a coarse blade. I ran the saw very slowly as high speeds melted instead of cut the plastic. Held all of this with my hands and used the saw from the interior of the panel so the foot of the saw wouldn't scratch cosmetic surfaces.

The fiddly part was marking the screw holes necessary to hold the scoops in place. I admit I used a mini rat tail file to stretch some holes. In the end it works well and looks like an OEM job.

I have the pdf if you want to have a look at it.
 
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