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2012 RT Limited Shifting Issues

scottnkansas

New member
I've noticed that when I first take off on my RT I've been having some shifting problems. When I got to up shift I can feel the bike trying to shift but it won't do it. It'll be like that for a little bit and then it'll work fine. I've got just a little over 8k miles on it. It's had all the tune ups and oil changes. Any ideas?


Scott
 
I had the same problem till I started going higher rpm's.
what RPM are you keeping it at?
I'm in first gear till about 30 MPH
 
I've noticed that when I first take off on my RT I've been having some shifting problems. When I got to up shift I can feel the bike trying to shift but it won't do it. It'll be like that for a little bit and then it'll work fine. I've got just a little over 8k miles on it. It's had all the tune ups and oil changes. Any ideas?


Scott
Check oil
 
Agree..!!

Higher rpms, don't backoff the throttle and check your oil and shift lever. They have been known to come loose causing shift problem and the looser they get the worse it will get...:thumbup:
 
It seems that if the oil level is low by about 6 drops :shocked:...
It manifests itself with some balky shifting.
:agree: Check the oil level first. Besides; it's the easiest thing to prove or disprove as the root of the problem! :thumbup:
 
It seems that if the oil level is low by about 6 drops :shocked:...
It manifests itself with some balky shifting.
:agree: Check the oil level first. Besides; it's the easiest thing to prove or disprove as the root of the problem! :thumbup:

I'm probably going to get some slack for this but where do you check and add the oil. I'm a plumber not a mechanic. Help out the slow kid please.


Scott
 
Higher rpms, don't backoff the throttle and check your oil and shift lever. They have been known to come loose causing shift problem and the looser they get the worse it will get...:thumbup:

I have read and learned and do shift at the higher rpm's. I know that isn't the issue but thanks for the suggestion.


Scott
 
Oil check procedure is in the Owners Manual. Long story short. Run the bike till it is hot(preferable on the road). Pull left front panel and there is the oil tank. Carefully unscrew the dipstick (check rubber grommet) wipe and screw it back in and out and check level. Any where between add and full is good. Above full is bad and it will pump oil into the air cleaner.This must be done within a few minutes after shut down
 
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Oil check procedure is in the Owners Manual. Long story short. Run the bike till it is hot(preferable on the road). Pull left front panel and there is the oil tank. Carefully unscrew the dipstick (check rubber grommet) wipe and screw it back in and out and check level. Any where between add and full is good. Above full is bad and it will pump oil into the air cleaner.This must be done within a few minutes after shut down

Thanks. I found a video by Lamont. It was the oil. I was a quart low. It shifts so smooth now.


Scott
 
Thanks for everyone's input. It was the oil. Was a quart low. It shifts very smooth now. I'll be checking the oil on a regular basis. Again thanks for everyone's help.


Scott
 
wow! thats a lot. Did you check hot or cold?

:shocked: If you check the oil-level cold, you won't get an accurate reading... :yikes:
Scott,
How often are you checking it?
Every bike is different, but I used to check my 2010 about every 1500 miles.
Two checks between changes, and I usually had to add 8 or 10 oz each time.
 
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:shocked: If you check the oil-level cold, you won't get an accurate reading... :yikes:
Scott,
How often are you checking it?
Every bike is different, but I used to check my 2010 about every 1500 miles.
Two checks between changes, and I usually had to add 8 or 10 oz each time.

I had never checked it. I didn't even know how. I didn't know it was needed. I figured as long as I did the regular oil changes that I was good to go. I was wrong. I won't make that mistake again.


Scott
 
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