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2012 RT - Anyone have an idea of the Cost of a New Belt, Installed?

Raknid

Active member
Today, I noticed a slight fray of the drive belt on my 2012 Spyder RT. Anyone have a rough idea of the cost for the dealer to replace it?
 
I'm in Oz, so I doubt a price comparison with what we'd hafta pay here to purchase a new belt and get it fitted would help you all that much... 😣
But seriously, how much actual 'fraying' &/or wear does your belt actually have?? :unsure:

The belts our Spyders run are truly pretty robust and can look pretty ratty while still remaining perfectly functional for many, many more miles! I've seen belts like these on our Spyders that've looked pretty frayed along the edges &/or even had a smallish hole or two punched thru them go on to last another hundred thousand miles or more, so if your belt has just 'a little' fraying on the edge and the teeth on the belt haven't actually started to wear into an oddly deformed 'half moon' shape, then maybe you're worrying prematurely?! ;)
 
My first question would be, are there any dealers near you who will work on a Spyder over 10 years old, or work on one based on the 998 Rotax V-twin.
 
As long as the fray isn’t into the meat of the belt, I’d take a razor blade and carefully cut the fray off. I get these on my snowmobile belt occasionally. No problems cutting them off. I have 34k on my Spyder belt, no frays yet for me.
 
From Copilot:
  • Belt price: OEM BRP belt: $300-$350 (Some dealers mark it up to ~$400)
  • Labor time: 2.5-4.0 hours depending on the tech Typical dealer labor rate: $120-$160/hr Labor cost range: $300-$600
  • Total typical bill: $600-$950 (Higher end if the dealer is slow or insists on full alignment procedure)

I looked on BRP cost for a replacement and for a 2018 RT is ~$400, so the AI estimate seems proper
 
Stuck a small rock through my belt about halfway between the center of the belt and the outside edge. Long story about why and how, but I didn't end up paying for a new belt. The Spyder tech at a local shop said it was a crapshoot whether to run it or replace it. So after riding a couple hundred miles because the shop couldn't get to it for several weeks, I had them replace it. Who knows how long it would've lasted if I just kept using it with that small hole in it. It was much smaller than a pencil and about the size of a pencil lead.
 
Stuck a small rock through my belt about halfway between the center of the belt and the outside edge. Long story about why and how, but I didn't end up paying for a new belt. The Spyder tech at a local shop said it was a crapshoot whether to run it or replace it. So after riding a couple hundred miles because the shop couldn't get to it for several weeks, I had them replace it. Who knows how long it would've lasted if I just kept using it with that small hole in it. It was much smaller than a pencil and about the size of a pencil lead.
If it makes you feel good, then it was worth it! Would it have lasted any longer, you don't have to worry about that, do you!

P.S. If it had been mine, I may have just watched it for a while. Those belts are tougher than heck, and with it in the middle of the belt, that makes a difference also; a side tear's a no go!
 
Mark that spot on your belt with white paint and keep a close eye on it for any changes in the fraying. It could very well last for thousands of miles, but at some point, it could fail quickly. Good luck.
 
As Peter states, the drive belt on the Spyder may be the most overkill component on the machine. I've seen belts with up to a 3/8" gravel punched hole go for ever. Frayed edge belts from running hard on a pulley flange do the same. There are some parameters. The rubber needs to be in good shape. You can check this by looking closely at the teeth (which all need to be there. If one or more are missing, replace the belt). If the rubber shows no signs of weather cracking, you should be good to go.

Be sure the belt is correctly adjusted, both alignment and tension. Keep an eye on the damaged area. If it shows signs of getting substantially worse, replace it. But most likely, it will be fine for the duration.

On the other hand, some change out a belt for peace of mind. And that has value as well.

There is a bit of price range on the belts depending on length. But a ballpark figure at our shop is $350.00 with 1.5 hrs. labor at $90.00 an hour. Dealerships charge a good bit more, but then they have overheads that we don't (I suspect that they also have a profit margin that we don't...)
 
I have the same kind of belt on a machine I use to make extra money. A stump grinder, and it is the main belt to the grinder wheel so it's taking the most punishment of any of the machine's belts, which it has several. If I allow it to become too loose and or if it looses several teeth in one spot it can and will disintegrate. Keep it clean and tightened to the manufacturers specs and it will out last all the other V belts two to one, or more.
 
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