2012 RS O2 sensor comparison Picture

[Macguy]

So my 2012 RS was throwing a P0130 code occasionally. Looking at the service manual it looked like a fault with the O2 Sensor so I just ordered a new one to replace it. I have two questions:

1. When you pull the diagnostics code up on the dash does it clear the code after you turn off the key? I took it to the dealer and they couldn't see the P0130 code but as you can see in the picture it was clearly there.


2. The old O2 sensor is on the right which doesn't look too bad to me other than it being kind of white in color, would there be something going on that caused the sensor to go bad? Could you tell that by the color?

 

[billybovine]

There are 3 states of fault codes.
Inactive, every possible fault is inactive until they are not.
Active, only faults that are active can be seen on your dash. Almost all active will change to occured on their own when problem is fixed.
Occurred, When faults are no longer active they change to occured. They will stay in memory until they are deliberately cleared using BUDS software.

The dealer did not see the P0130 code in the active state but it would be in the occured state. If he just had of looked.

 

[Macguy]

Thanks, I found it kind of hard to believe the fault just wasn’t there.

 

[oldgoat]

To me it looks like the old one is on the left.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Hey guys, I'm getting that same P0130 code on my 2012 RS w/17K miles on it... do these sensors need to be cleaned (or, can they be cleaned?) or do you just have to replace them frequently?

My GMC C3500 has almost 300K miles on it and it's O2 sensors are still original and working fine.... I find it hard to believe this sensor failed after a mere 17K miles!

Thoughts?

Thanks!

- Michael

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

yes, it looks like the old one is on the left and it looks pretty normal.

Some Spyder ECM codes are the same codes, triggered in the same way, as a standard OBD-II system. Google that code, and you'll see that, while it is a high probability that the O2 sensor is at fault, it is also a probability that the output voltage from the sensor momentarily dipped down low due to an actual lean condition, and then returned to normal before the lean code was set. So, while you have the thing apart with the panels off, I would suggest still checking those two vacuum lines to the MAP sensor and other areas where a vacuum leak can occur. I have personally experienced that code due to an intermittent vacuum leak, without the lean code occurring. Caused a lot of electrical investigation on my part for no reason. See how it goes after you replace the sensor and run for awhile.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Where are these vacuum lines? I have my panels off right now trying to find them... while I have good access I'm also unplugging spritzing with WD40 and then re-plugging every electrical connector I come across as I know the contacts tend to oxidize over time (I'm also getting the wonderful Brake Failure message scrolling across screen, even though the reservoir's are both to the very tip top and I don't even have to press the brake pedal for the message to start.. arghhh! I'm guessing it's just not getting good signal from the reservoir sensors so I unplugged and spritzed them 1st!).

Thanks!

Update! Never mind I finally found them and they are fine very soft and pliable just like new! So them ain't my problem IMHO. Still getting Check Engine message and light, but does go away when I'm driving it just when sitting still idling it's coming on... will check my OS sensor connection plug next I guess.

- Michael

 

[davev1pa]

Update?