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2012 limited Sometimes hard to steer

Champagne

Member
Sometimes when I'm riding the steering get real hard and heavy and I have to muscle the turn if I get off the bike let it sit for a little while or the next day or two I do not have the problem anyone have any ideas what it may be. I was thinking maybe the battery have something to do with it. but I really don't know
 
Sometimes when I'm riding the steering get real hard and heavy and I have to muscle the turn if I get off the bike let it sit for a little while or the next day or two I do not have the problem anyone have any ideas what it may be. I was thinking maybe the battery have something to do with it. but I really don't know
changes in tire pressure will cause this!
 
I'm betting on the DPS. It could be getting ready to fail. Also, if the DPS overheats it will shut off until it cools down.

Having said that, I would first check all of the linkage for anything loose or binding. Check front tire pressures. I doubt it is the battery unless you are experiencing other electrical issues.
 
I'm betting on the DPS. It could be getting ready to fail. Also, if the DPS overheats it will shut off until it cools down.

Having said that, I would first check all of the linkage for anything loose or binding. Check front tire pressures. I doubt it is the battery unless you are experiencing other electrical issues.

Thank you I was hoping it was not DPS. I was hoping it could have been a simple fix like a new battery. I was hoping after 2 1/2 years a part like a DPS wouldn't go out. After warranty
 
Is your battery still the original that came with the bike? :dontknow:
If it is; it might just be the culprit.
The DPS is the single largest power hungry beast under the Tupperware. If it's not getting properly fed; it gets cranky... :shocked:
But check your tire pressures first! :D
Always start with the simplest solution, and then work your way toward the tougher stuff...
Good Luck! :thumbup:
 
Is your battery still the original that came with the bike? :dontknow:
If it is; it might just be the culprit.
The DPS is the single largest power hungry beast under the Tupperware. If it's not getting properly fed; it gets cranky... :shocked:
But check your tire pressures first! :D
Always start with the simplest solution, and then work your way toward the tougher stuff...
Good Luck! :thumbup:

hey Bob! how you doing? I know you are going to spyderfest this year. yes it is the original battery I was hoping or thinking that might be the culprit plus I have LED lights on it being that it works sometimes and sometimes it don't I was thinking maybe I should go that route replacing the battery because I was thinking after two years or so it's probably time to change it anyway and I am going to Sturgis this year so I am trying to get the bike ready:yes:
 
Actually... :opps: I can't get time out of the office for an entire week's worth of riding and partying... :banghead:
Since you've got big plans for even bigger trips; I'd definitely swap out the old battery! :thumbup:
Here's to hoping that it cures the problem! :cheers:

(Take lots of pictures at Sturgis for all of us!)
 
Steering question

I also have a question about the steering on my RTS. When the Spyder is sitting still I can hardly turn the steering (almost impossible). Is that normal? Seems to work when I'm moving. I rode a demo F3 this week and I could turn the steering while sitting still with very little effort. I know, the F3 is a lot lighter, bu.................t!!
 
I also have a question about the steering on my RTS. When the Spyder is sitting still I can hardly turn the steering (almost impossible). Is that normal? Seems to work when I'm moving. I rode a demo F3 this week and I could turn the steering while sitting still with very little effort. I know, the F3 is a lot lighter, bu.................t!!

I think in order for the DPS to kick on the bike have to be on in the steering should be a lot easier with it on.
 
I was hoping after 2 1/2 years a part like a DPS wouldn't go out. After warranty

In July of 2012 I purchased a RT Ltd. At that time BRP offered a 4 year warranty. If you purchased during this promotion or you purchased it used and the original owner had purchased it at that time you will still have 1.5 years left of warranty. I hope either is the case if it turns out to be the DPS. Good Luck
 
Bike Running

I think in order for the DPS to kick on the bike have to be on in the steering should be a lot easier with it on.

My Spyder is on when I experience this problem. The engine is running, but the Spyder is not in motion. Under that scenario I can't move the handle bars (steering). However, as soon as the Spyder begins to move the steering becomes much easier. Is that the way all RT's operate? As I stated in my previous post, I demoed a new F3 and the steering was easy to work even with the bike sitting still. I know, different and lighter machine, but for the RT owners out there, does yours act like mine? Is that normal?
 
The DPS uses battery voltage, engine rpm, speed, input from the torque sensor and steering angle sensor. The amount of assist is dependent on torque, steering angle and speed. Battery voltage will affect DPS but usually not intermittently. If the Spyder is sitting still, idling, then DPS doesn't have the speed input, so this will affect torque input. As I mentioned before, the DPS has a temperature input. If the motor reaches a certain temp it will reduce output (assist). If the internal board temp reaches a preset temp it will reduce output. If it reaches a max preset temp it will cease output. All three of these can be reset when the temp comes back within operating range.
 
The DPS uses battery voltage, engine rpm, speed, input from the torque sensor and steering angle sensor. The amount of assist is dependent on torque, steering angle and speed. Battery voltage will affect DPS but usually not intermittently. If the Spyder is sitting still, idling, then DPS doesn't have the speed input, so this will affect torque input. As I mentioned before, the DPS has a temperature input. If the motor reaches a certain temp it will reduce output (assist). If the internal board temp reaches a preset temp it will reduce output. If it reaches a max preset temp it will cease output. All three of these can be reset when the temp comes back within operating range.

Thanks Bruiser!!
 
The DPS uses battery voltage, engine rpm, speed, input from the torque sensor and steering angle sensor. The amount of assist is dependent on torque, steering angle and speed. Battery voltage will affect DPS but usually not intermittently. If the Spyder is sitting still, idling, then DPS doesn't have the speed input, so this will affect torque input. As I mentioned before, the DPS has a temperature input. If the motor reaches a certain temp it will reduce output (assist). If the internal board temp reaches a preset temp it will reduce output. If it reaches a max preset temp it will cease output. All three of these can be reset when the temp comes back within operating range.

wow! Thanks Bruiser for the information I didn't know About the temperature with the DPS
I change the battery and I still have that problem but it also happen when the bike is cold and temperature is not an issue
 
There is a cold temp cut on the DPS board as well. But it has to be pretty darn cold. Let me look in my tech training and see if I can find those temps just for S&G. It sounds like there is definitely a DPS related issue somewhere.

Found it.
14F or lower- Assist stops.
Higher than 167F-Continuous- Assist is decreased.
Higher than 185F- Assist stops.
Note that these are all internal board temps and not outside air temps.
 
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Sometimes when I'm riding the steering get real hard and heavy and I have to muscle the turn if I get off the bike let it sit for a little while or the next day or two I do not have the problem anyone have any ideas what it may be. I was thinking maybe the battery have something to do with it. but I really don't know
My RT did the same thing. The DPS was bad. Are you seeing any codes pop up? The next time it happens, before you turn the ignition off check for a code. If it's the DPS acting up there should be a code. Hopefully you still have some warranty left as it's a several hundred part, plus several hours labor.

There have been some bad batches of DPS units so check with the dealer. They'll probably have to get the S/N of the DPS and check with BRP. I'm thinking there were a lot of problems with 2012, but I may be dreaming.
 
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