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2012 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited No power to gauges

Charliem53

New member
I bought this Can-Am Spyder RT Limited with just over 8,000 miles about two weeks ago. When I first went to look at it it cranked very weakly and wouldn’t start. I returned the following day and it started fine. Over the last two weeks the battery didn’t have enough power to start the bike. After an overnight trickle charge it started without any issues. I was given the receipt for the battery and it’s approximately eighteen months old. This morning the bike started and I went for a twenty-five minute ride. After sitting for about ten minutes the bike wouldn’t crank and the gauges were not legible. The second time I tried to start it I turned the key and nothing. No power to the gauges. The bike is dead. I checked the battery and it has 13.6 volts. I searched the forum under Spyder RT Touring and I can’t find anything similar. I appreciate any insight you may have regarding this problem. If heat could be an issue I live in SW Florida and it's been hot as hell.

P.S. Tow trucks are really expensive …………..:-(
 
Welcome to the Forum & posting Charlie. :2thumbs:

Batteries really don't like sitting around not being used; or worse, being used just a little but not enough to fully re-charge it after the drain of starting - and they need to run at least 30 minutes or so at highway speeds to do that properly, or you're just slowly killing the battery! Plus, if you leave them sitting on a charger that's not a multi-stage battery maintainer/conditioner all the time except when riding, it'll eventually mean that you might be able to start the bike at home, cos it just came off the charger, and then just as a trap for the unwary, only to have it fail once you're well away from home cos the charger was simply providing a surface charge but never actually loading the battery up/maintaining the battery's Cold Cranking Amps &/or A/h load capacity so that it could barely manage that initial starting load to get the engine going, and then it crapped itself!! Anything about all that sound familiar yet?? :dontknow:

Regardless, that 18 month old battery might have 13.6 volts of surface charge left in it, but if it's dead &/or clagged up inside, it's likely that it was pushing the friendship simply to provide enough grunt to drive the multi-meter display before :shocked: even tho it might have juuust been able to make the 13.6 volts that it showed in order to kid you into thinking it was good when it really wasn't!! And now that you've done a start or two and not run it hard enough/ling enough it's just given up entirely in terms of it's ability to crank those sorta volts under load. :rolleyes: What you've described above is classic 'Dead Battery' symptoms with the addition of being caught out by the 'but it started OK after charging' trap for the unwary!! :lecturef_smilie:

So from what you've described, it REALLY sounds like that battery is DEAD, meaning that you can either confirm that for yourself with a load test (do a rudimentary test by measuring the voltage with a multi-meter AS you crank it over & try to start, anything less than 12v while actually cranking is effectively 'flat' on these power hungry Spyders; or a 'proper' load test with the correct tool - many battery suppliers/auto part/workshops provide those tests free of charge! ;) ) or you can

just buy a new battery, put it on a charger/maintainer for AT LEAST 8 hours before installing, then fit it & most likely ride away a happy chappy for probably a good few years to come! :ohyea:

Ps: No matter what the battery re-seller may tell you, unless you know and trust them implicitly, or you've actually witnessed it, the chances they've done that pre-installation charge are pretty tiny, and if you DON'T do that, you'll probably be looking at buying yet another battery pretty soon, certainly very likely within a few years, if not sooner!! :lecturef_smilie: They NEED that pre-installation charge to stand any real chance of working well for too long - fail to do it, you might as well just burn the $$ you were going to spend on buying a new battery, cos at least that way you'll know who ****** up and won't have any doubts about why your Spyder dash is dead & it won't start/run anymore! :banghead:

Get a New Battery; charge it properly before installing it; and then check the charging system once the bike is running again! :thumbup:

Pps: If you just purchased a 2012 Spyder that has only 8000 miles on it, then it's done a LOT of sitting around over the last 11 years or so, meaning that unless they've recently been changed, there's a good chance the tires are also dead and quite possibly dangerous to ride on! And again, unless this has all recently been done, there's almost as much of a good chance that it's in DIRE NEED of an oil & filter change; a coolant change; a brake fluid change; a gas tank flush & refill with fresh fuel; and a thorough inspection if not replacement of all the perishable radiator & vacuum hoses, the belt, & any other perishable over time filters/items etc in order to make sure that something else doesn't fail on you once you get out there & away from home - cos as it sounds like you may've already found out, Tow trucks are really expensive....... :gaah:
 
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A couple of things that i neglected to make clear is the bike is "DEAD". It will not crank, it does nothing. The gauges will not come on so it will not go through the pre-check. I had to disconnect the parking brake cable so we could roll it up on the flat bead. Did I mention that it is "DEAD" :-) . I tried to jump it with a portable jump starter and "NOTHING". There is no power to the gauges.

Thanks for your comments.
 
A couple of things that i neglected to make clear is the bike is "DEAD". It will not crank, it does nothing. The gauges will not come on so it will not go through the pre-check. I had to disconnect the parking brake cable so we could roll it up on the flat bead. Did I mention that it is "DEAD" :-) . I tried to jump it with a portable jump starter and "NOTHING". There is no power to the gauges.

Thanks for your comments.

Yep, that's Exactly what'll happen in the circumstances I outlined in my post above. Your battery is DEAD, and as a result, your power hungry Spyder has spat the dummy! You'd need to leave it connected to a jump battery for at least a few hours to do anything; or leave it sitting on a charger for maybe 8 hours to get ANYTHING, and even then, cos the battery is now SO DEAD, even if you managed to start it, it probably wouldn't run for long if at all & almost certainly wouldn't start again without similar re-charging once you stopped it next! :banghead:

It's NEW BATTERY time, and don't forget to charge the NEW BATTERY for AT LEAST 8 hours before installing it! Do that, and only then can you properly check that the charging circuit is working as it should! :lecturef_smilie:

Good Luck! :cheers:
 
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:agree: with Peter 200% ..... Let me add (if Peter didn't say this) you have the V-Twin engine ..... that has a "MAGNETO" to recharge the battery. BRP stopped using this method about a decade ago ---- Why? Because it didn't do a very good job of re-charging the Battery .... To enjoy this '12 Spyder, keep the Battery happy, and fully charged, you NEED to keep the engine revs above 3500 RPM's - - Why? Because the Magneto needs to spin that fast to produce enough juice .... More bad news - the older RT's (like yours) appear to have "parasitic" power drains. .... A lot of folks who own similar Spyders keep them on "Battery MAINTAINERS" unless they're driven well every third day or so for more than an hour ..... Good Luck .... We are here to help you .... it may not feel that way, but we are! .... Good Luck ... Mike :thumbup:
 
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And the third point is that the 2010-2012 RT has a nasty habit of vibrating it's cable screws loose. So get a set of star washers and place under the screw heads before you tighten them down and at least you will not have that problem again
 
The rpms on a 998 twin should be kept at 5500. 3500 is for the newer 1330/3's. 3500 is almost lugging the two cylinder engine.
 
Thank you very much for the in-depth responses. My first response was based on both of my ex-wives telling me I do not explain things with enough detail. They might be right...........

Yesterday I charged the battery in the bike for eight hours on 2 amps. This morning I turned the key to the on position and nothing. The instruments did not light up. I removed a few body panels to access the battery and when I started to loosen the negative battery cable the bolt was loose. I tightened the bolt, turned the key and the instruments lit up and I was able to start the bike. According to the receipt from Advance Auto this battery has been in the bike for eighteen months. I'm going to have the battery load tested regardless. Does this sound like it could be the problem or should I continue to dig deeper?

Thanks for all your help.
Charlie
 
As I said in post #6 2010-2012 are notorious for this. Put star washers under the screw heads and solve that problem. By all means have your battery load tested as the loose connection may have killed an otherwise good battery.
Always go to the easiest and cheapest first.
 
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If your battery bas been running like that with a loose terminal for some time, or if it's been getting a 'less than ideal charge' at ANY time in its life, AND it's been flattened (which for any other vehicle, generally means that the charge has dropped below about 11v EVER, but in my experience with these Spyders, rather means it's been discharged below about 12v EVER :banghead: ) at ANY time, then it's suspect; and if it's been discharged that far more than once, then your current battery is no longer going to be reliable (pun intended! :p ), even if it's only 3 DAYS old, let alone 18 months of dubious charging old.... so you really shouldn't rely on it! Especially not unless you want to end up stuck by the side of the road again!! :lecturef_smilie:

Sure, you might be lucky and get away with risking it for a while, but as you've already found out, tow trucks are expensive, especially if you hafta pay for them more than once! And fitting a replacement battery with a couple of star washers on the terminals & given a good charge before installation is very likely going to be a significantly less painful once off peace of mind cost & exercise that'll set you up for at least the next few years of riding - many of us generally manage 6+ years on a battery.... :ohyea:

Still, it's really up to you to do what you want, but you did come here and ask for advice, which you can see in posts #2; #4-#7; #9; #10; & now #11 too. It's your call, but if it was me in this situation.... :rolleyes:

Ps: the 2012 & earlier RT's have an earth-to-frame connection under the seat, and that connection is very easy to over-tighten and strip, so many owners have replaced the bolt/captive nut arrangement with a rivnut or a heavier/better bolt & nut arrangement - so check that one with care, and make sure it's not stripped or otherwise loose in the frame. Star washers on every terminal & earth-to-frame connection are highly recommended. Locktite is an insulator to some degree, so it is not! :thumbup:
 
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Load test , look for new & yes star washers 9F5A9358-BE9E-49EE-A85F-091485A3E66C.jpeg good idea adding a charger/maintainer pigtail while at it for easier access. Caution as just trickle chargers have had few reported issues.
 
Thank you very much for the in-depth responses. My first response was based on both of my ex-wives telling me I do not explain things with enough detail. They might be right...........

Yesterday I charged the battery in the bike for eight hours on 2 amps. This morning I turned the key to the on position and nothing. The instruments did not light up. I removed a few body panels to access the battery and when I started to loosen the negative battery cable the bolt was loose. I tightened the bolt, turned the key and the instruments lit up and I was able to start the bike. According to the receipt from Advance Auto this battery has been in the bike for eighteen months. I'm going to have the battery load tested regardless. Does this sound like it could be the problem or should I continue to dig deeper?

Thanks for all your help.
Charlie

I recently posted how I brought back a SIX year old battery in a car that wasn't used for 4 years...... I tested it with a milli-amp single LED .... it didn't light , not even slightly.... this battery was as drained as it could get..... It took a week on a Battery maintainer before it would accept a charge from my 12V Starter / Charger ..... it can be done .... Mike :thumbup:
 
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