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2011 RTS Needs Formed Air Intake P/n #707800307 (it has been discontinued) - Anyone?

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GrammaRyder

New member
I am searching for the formed air intake, part number 707800307, for my 2011 Spyder RTS, but it has been discontinued. I have been searching everywhere I can think of online, and my dealership is also looking for me, to no avail. Has anyone had to replace this part since it has been discontinued? If so, where did you get it? Right now it is patched, but I don't know how long it will last.
 

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Can you explain what that part looks like/where it actually goes in the Intake Ducting for those of us who can't readily access fiche/parts sites? Could it possibly be anything like the part shown in the thumbnails below, which comes off the front/air side of the Intake Duct on a 2013 RT?? :dontknow:

Ps: I no longer have any idea which way is up, altho I'm pretty sure that the opening in the Upper Left corner of Attachment 1 is NOT the engine side of the Intake Duct, and the shiny reflective bit in Attachment 2 is the side that is closest to the engine/header pipes... :rolleyes:
 

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I have attached a copy of the parts diagram, it is part number 12 in the diagram. I have also attached a picture of the cracked hose.

Pics of formed air intake
 

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Auto parts store. Ask for flex hose. They may carry it. In my job we use flex hose for connecting blowers to steel tube systems. Good luck. Bruce
 
GrammaRyder said:
I have attached a copy of the parts diagram, it is part number 12 in the diagram. I have also attached a picture of the cracked hose.

Pics of formed air intake
Click to expand...

Ahh! I do have something similar, but it has a slightly different Part number - ends in 460... See below, LHS of the pic; it's about 200mm long and it has different sized ends - the big end's about 82mm ID while the small end is about 67mm ID, and I don't think it'd be all that easy for me to find the shiny hose clamp fitting now either! :opps:

And of course, there's also the issue that I'm in South Australia while you are in Canada, and overseas freight is no longer as cheap, quick, or easy as it used to be :banghead:

But PM me if you think this one might help & we'll see what can be arranged. :thumbup:

Mind you, the reason I have all this stuff off the Spyder is that it was so restrictive that it HAD to come off to allow the engine to breathe properly once the ECU Upgrade was done, so I'd seriously suggest that unless you're forced to have it all there for some reason, your engine will very likely work better without any of it; and it would certainly benefit even more if you got an ECU Upgrade done! :lecturef_smilie:

Over to you. :cheers:
 

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I am curious to know what is involved in the ECU upgrade. I am pretty sure I can replace the hose myself, but upgrading the ECU may be over my head. Or maybe once riding season is over, I can take the bike apart as a winter project and attempt it.
 
GrammaRyder said:
I am curious to know what is involved in the ECU upgrade. I am pretty sure I can replace the hose myself, but upgrading the ECU may be over my head. Or maybe once riding season is over, I can take the bike apart as a winter project and attempt it.
Click to expand...

ECU Upgrades are pretty simple - well, unless your Spyder is a 2013 RT V-Twin! In which case getting the ECU off is a bit of a marathon!! :mad: IIRC, your 2011's ECU is nowhere near so hard to find &/or remove, but it's been a while since I looked at one of them... :rolleyes:

Basically, you find & talk to an upgrade provider/ECU Tuner, someone like Monster or Wick-it over your way, or ECU Xtreme/RotaxRacing on this side of the World, to describe your riding needs and wants and discuss what your upgrade should entail; then you remove your ECU & send it to them Priority Package with Insurance & wait a few days, maybe a week or so; once it comes back, you plug it back in, put all the tupperware back on, and start up the bike; if you can, let the bike idle for a few minutes (maybe 10-15 or so) then gently rev it up & down a bit, but if you can't it doesn't matter, it'll learn as you ride, it just takes a little longer for the improvements to reveal themselves; then you go for a ride, and rapidly become aware of how much the OEM/factory tune restricted your bike's capability, plus maybe spending some time kicking yourself repeatedly for not doing this earlier!! :ohyea:

The factory tune really throttles these engines back A LOT, and an ECU Upgrade can unleash as much of that extra capability as you want, all the while staying within the reliability and longevity limits/capabilities of the engine & driveline as tested and proven on other platforms running the same gear. I've not only got MUCH better power output, but if I'm simply cruising &/or riding at anything much less than the new limits of the machine, I get better fuel economy too, basically the same as most 1330's, altho my range is still less than theirs, albeit restricted only due to the smaller tank we get on the V-twins. AFAI Can See, that means Wins all round, and it's pretty simple to do too, but it does mean a week or so of not riding! :rolleyes:

Go on, Do It! You Know you want to!

Ps: If it looks like it might fit, you might want to see if that ...400 Part# is still available over your way... :dontknow:
 
Thank you so much for this information! I do have a call in to my dealership about the part from the 2013. Looking at the parts diagram on the BRP site, it looks like the exact same hose. They are going to check that out for me and see if they can get it. According to the catalogue, I would have to purchase the entire Resonator assembly as the hose is not sold separately (makes no sense to me), but I could do that as my husband has a 2013 RT Limited, and he could have spare parts for his. If the 2013 part is not compatible with my 2011 assembly, I will pursue the ECU upgrade. I don't really need more power, but I do want to ride worry free.

Again, thank you so much for your help.
 
Check with BajaRon a sponsor of this site. He may have or be making some of JT's air filter replacement kits that make it much easier to service the front cylinder.
 
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