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2011 rts check engine light
- Thread starter Jay13433
- Start date
safecracker
Active member
Are you checking for codes when the code appears? If you cannot, check for codes BEFORE you shut off Spyder. Good luck.
safecracker
Active member
Please do not take this the wrong way. How are you checking for codes?
safecracker
Active member
I have no idea at the moment. What does your manual say regarding just the check engine light on
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Hey Jay. You're going to have to try to time it so that you check for codes when the light happens to be ON. And that might be difficult when you're riding and it's coming on and off at random. If the light happens to be OFF at the time you check, the code will not appear. Just try your best and see if you can pull over and catch it. And just to be specific, that's Mode, Set, and Turn Signal Cancel (turn signal button pushed straight in). By the way, do you still have the Cat installed?
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Well, with the Cat still on, and all that you changed was the muffler, then the system should be able to adjust for that over the course of a few miles. And you're checking for the code correctly. The most common code that appears after an exhaust change would be the dreaded Bank 2 Lean Code. The rear cylinder of the 998 runs close to the limit anyway, so any change, in conjunction with an existing issue, can trigger the code. My guess is that you're getting the light cycling every-time the purge valve cycles. But we'd just be Easter Egging it without knowing what the code is for sure. But for any 998, replacing vacuum lines to the MAP sensor is standard procedure if it's never been done yet, and a couple tanks of Seafoam or Techron is inexpensive maintenance. Although I like this stuff, too. Just buy the small 5 oz bottle and put the whole thing into a full tank of gas.
So, it's no crisis or anything. Without knowing for sure what the code is, just try some standard preventative maintenance items and try to catch the code with the light ON if you can. And run it. Good Luck.
So, it's no crisis or anything. Without knowing for sure what the code is, just try some standard preventative maintenance items and try to catch the code with the light ON if you can. And run it. Good Luck.
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Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Yeah. Keep riding. And of course, if this keeps up, a dealer or anybody with BUDS can look at the code history and find out what it is. It’s logged in history even if you can’t call it up yourself with the three button procedure.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Good. That takes us in a completely different direction with better guidance.
P2279 - intake air system leak
P0172 - bank 1 too rich
P0106 - manifold absolute pressure (MAP)circuit out of range.
First thing I would do is replace vacuum lines to the MAP sensor. It’s a known issue with the V- twin. They crack and leak air due to the heat. Do a forum / google search and you’ll find all kinds of info and pictures on how to do it. While you’re in that area, do a visual inspection of the rubber boot that the throttle bodies are mounted in. I’m not at my computer right now or I would provide some extra info for you.
P2279 - intake air system leak
P0172 - bank 1 too rich
P0106 - manifold absolute pressure (MAP)circuit out of range.
First thing I would do is replace vacuum lines to the MAP sensor. It’s a known issue with the V- twin. They crack and leak air due to the heat. Do a forum / google search and you’ll find all kinds of info and pictures on how to do it. While you’re in that area, do a visual inspection of the rubber boot that the throttle bodies are mounted in. I’m not at my computer right now or I would provide some extra info for you.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Here you go, Jay, in case you're still searching. The MAP sensor is on the left side of the throttle bodies, below the air box. Two rubber vacuum lines on it, front and back. The front one will be a pain. The spec length for both is 85mm. An ID of 3mm works good. If you can't find metric, then 2.8mm ID also works. Buy some good, high temperature silicon lines, although you'll need to buy way more than you'll ever use. NAPA has it. So, does Summit Racing. Very rarely do I remember hearing of an actual failure of the sensor. It's almost always the vacuum lines. The whole muffler thing might have been just a red herring. All codes are pointing to this, now.
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Code should be 5 digits long with letters and numbers example P2620 or U0259 Just 206 will not show up in code book.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Well sir, you've tacked onto a thread about a 2011 RT. Looking at your profile, you have a 2019 F3. I'm not sure you're going to get much help unless you supply all of the necessary information....which year and model are we really talking about, does it crank or not, does it just do nothing, etc....and maybe it would have helped to post this in the F3 forum, I don't know. At least folks would be looking stuff up for you in the correct manual. Best I can do is repeat what Copper said - let's be sure that you have the code numbers correct and check that your kill switch is in the RUN position.
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