2011 RT stalling issue

[scarletspyder]

Have a 2011 RT I just got. Has 30K on it. Ridden it for about 600 miles so far. Other day check engine came on, but it ran fine. Called dealer where I bought it and they had me bring it in to hook up to computer. They couldn't find anything and cleared computer. Only thing they found is that battery showed dead few days ago. I said yes, I forgot and left my sirius plugged in and killed the battery, but I charged it back up. Now since they had hooked to their computer, when I come to redlights, it stalls and shuts off. It seems to not want to idle unless I hold the throttle around 1000-1500 RPMs. Could they have reset computer? I see in searches that there was issues with throttle body in programming. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

[peterRT]

Have a 2011 RT I just got. Has 30K on it. Ridden it for about 600 miles so far. Other day check engine came on, but it ran fine. Called dealer where I bought it and they had me bring it in to hook up to computer. They couldn't find anything and cleared computer. Only thing they found is that battery showed dead few days ago. I said yes, I forgot and left my sirius plugged in and killed the battery, but I charged it back up. Now since they had hooked to their computer, when I come to redlights, it stalls and shuts off. It seems to not want to idle unless I hold the throttle around 1000-1500 RPMs. Could they have reset computer? I see in searches that there was issues with throttle body in programming. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Could be that your battery is at end of life because that happened to me on my RT SE5 Techno a couple of years ago and I replced the battery. Since then I have not had a problem with it stalling, that is if you are referring to the motor stopping

Regards Peter

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Have a 2011 RT I just got. Has 30K on it. Ridden it for about 600 miles so far. Other day check engine came on, but it ran fine. Called dealer where I bought it and they had me bring it in to hook up to computer. They couldn't find anything and cleared computer. Only thing they found is that battery showed dead few days ago. I said yes, I forgot and left my sirius plugged in and killed the battery, but I charged it back up. Now since they had hooked to their computer, when I come to redlights, it stalls and shuts off. It seems to not want to idle unless I hold the throttle around 1000-1500 RPMs. Could they have reset computer? I see in searches that there was issues with throttle body in programming. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

What they should have done when they cleared the check engine light was tell you what codes were stored and the cause of the light. Are they on the work order? Otherwise, yes, there was an ECM update that applied to the 2011 RT for throttle body issues, but that update would have improved things, unless it got corrupted in the update. But, they should have told you if they did that work, too. If not a leftover battery issue or a software issue, my vote is that your vacuum lines have finally given out - if they were never replaced - and the cracks have caused too much of a vacuum leak that the motor can't idle. Search the forum and / or Google and you'll find plenty of info and pictures. And run a couple of tanks of Seafoam through it. I know - it sounds too simple but it works 95% of the time.

Edit: BTW - since you just got the machine, the maintenance history may be sketchy. Probably not a cause off your problem, but at 30K miles the fuel filter is due to be replaced, too.

 

[scarletspyder]

What they should have done when they cleared the check engine light was tell you what codes were stored and the cause of the light. Are they on the work order? Otherwise, yes, there was an ECM update that applied to the 2011 RT for throttle body issues, but that update would have improved things, unless it got corrupted in the update. But, they should have told you if they did that work, too. If not a leftover battery issue or a software issue, my vote is that your vacuum lines have finally given out - if they were never replaced - and the cracks have caused too much of a vacuum leak that the motor can't idle. Search the forum and / or Google and you'll find plenty of info and pictures. And run a couple of tanks of Seafoam through it. I know - it sounds too simple but it works 95% of the time.

Edit: BTW - since you just got the machine, the maintenance history may be sketchy. Probably not a cause off your problem, but at 30K miles the fuel filter is due to be replaced, too.

They said they found no codes....They hooked up to computer as a courtesy...no charge since I just bought it...supposedly they full serviced it before I bought it...I'll see if they can give me record of what they serviced...I keep a battery tender on it after I charged it back up as far as the battery goes.....just find it funny....had no problems stalling until they hooked computer to it

 

[Docster]

What they should have done when they cleared the check engine light was tell you what codes were stored and the cause of the light. Are they on the work order? Otherwise, yes, there was an ECM update that applied to the 2011 RT for throttle body issues, but that update would have improved things, unless it got corrupted in the update. But, they should have told you if they did that work, too. If not a leftover battery issue or a software issue, my vote is that your vacuum lines have finally given out - if they were never replaced - and the cracks have caused too much of a vacuum leak that the motor can't idle. Search the forum and / or Google and you'll find plenty of info and pictures. And run a couple of tanks of Seafoam through it. I know - it sounds too simple but it works 95% of the time.

Edit: BTW - since you just got the machine, the maintenance history may be sketchy. Probably not a cause off your problem, but at 30K miles the fuel filter is due to be replaced, too.

I would agree that this is a good possibility. Same stalling issue/symptoms arose on my 2011RT. After doing a 'SEARCH' on this forum I found several references to the vacuum lines. Had them replaced, (mechanics inspection revealed they were cracked), resolved the stalling issue

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

NO CODES

They said they found no codes....They hooked up to computer as a courtesy...no charge since I just bought it...supposedly they full serviced it before I bought it...I'll see if they can give me record of what they serviced...I keep a battery tender on it after I charged it back up as far as the battery goes.....just find it funny....had no problems stalling until they hooked computer to it

This is a FACT about all computers .... The faults / codes etc. that occur on your Spyder are for all intensive purposes PERMANENTLY embedded in the computers files ..... Un-less removed by a Professional ie. " Bleach Bit " ala Clint*n ( this isn't a political statement just a well known example in recent History ) that error is / was logged in.... If your service Tech couldn't find it - I'd start there in searching for the Answer ..... THIS happened to me..... a Dealer Tech SWORE not once but three times ... " There are no codes registering on your computer " ...at Spyderfestt 2014 I was lucky enough to have a BRP Tech look into my issue .... He said there were 247 Error entries logged into my computer ( for the same problem ).... He didn't have the part so He couldn't fix, but He did tell me to have THAT dealer Tech contact Him @ BRP and He would help the dealer Tech get the info for the Warranty claim ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[jcthorne]

Its amazing how many dealer techs have no idea how to use BUDS.

I can tell you for certain, if there is currently a check engine light on, THERE IS AN ACTIVE CODE. No question. If the dealer cannot find it, you need a better trained tech looking at your bike. Plain and simple. Also as Mike said, all prior codes, even those cleared are stored in the history file.

 

[scarletspyder]

well found the vaccuum lines were shot. Front line was actually almost cracked in half. Replaced fuel filter. Still had issue of idling at about 1500 RPMs then drop to 1000 and then engine would lope and stall. So I went and got a battery and replaced that and bam......no it's running good. Can't believe how much better the bike runs since I changed these things. I can understand the vacuum, but amazing how the battery effects as much as it does. Appreciate everybody's help. this forum is awesome.