2011 RT SE5 with new friction & pressure plates in the clutch won't go - ideas?

[Lgarcia7171]

I put a new clutch kit on my 2011 Can Am Spyder RT SE5, just the friction and steel plates, didn't replace the centrifugal clutch though. It started out running pretty good for about 50 miles, then stopped moving. The original clutch was 9 friction plates, the new one is 10 friction plates. When I put the pressure plate in, the plates inside still have a little play. Does anyone have a suggestion, maybe getting a new centrifugal clutch?

 

[sledge]

I put a new clutch kit on my 2011 Can Am Spyder RT SE5, just the friction and steel plates, didn't replace the centrifugal clutch though. It started out running pretty good for about 50 miles, then stopped moving. The original clutch was 9 friction plates, the new one is 10 friction plates. When I put the pressure plate in, the plates inside still have a little play. Does anyone have a suggestion, maybe getting a new centrifugal clutch?

I am a Retired Mechanic, and I do know quite a bit about these things... if the clutch plates were even a bit Loose when it was all back together - there is the problem. A working Clutch is VERY Tight, nothing moving at all between the Flywheel & Preacher Plate. You said you had 1 more going back together than you took out, and now they are loose and not working - then the plates have to be quite a bit Thinner than the Original plates were. Why is that?? Did you get the right Clutch??

 

[Lgarcia7171]

I ordered an OEM clutch from canampartshouse.com part number is 420281935, but I have no idea if they sent the wrong one, all I read is that the new clutch kit brings an extra plate and an oil jet. And when I put everything together inside there was still about 3/16 " gap between the last plate and the pressure plate.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Never did the job, but can shed a little light on an SE5 clutch. Because it has a centrifugal clutch section to it, it will be loose when it’s at rest. But 3/16 sounds a bit much. Think of it this way, it’s basically a clutch pack sandwiched between two pressure plates - the one operated by the hydraulic piston, and the one operated by the centrifugal unit.

The clutch was redesigned for MY 2013. It does have an extra plate. The new clutch is backward compatible. You should have received a shim kit, along with the new oil jet. You’ll need instructions on how to set up the shims to get the correct clearance. One of Smoak’s videos touches on this. I would have thought instructions would be provided. Google search for his videos. I can’t do a link paste at the moment.

I can think of two likely errors. As you’ve seen, the clutch does not use the standard coil springs for the hydraulic pressure plate. It uses a single spring plate. That can be easily installed backwards. The centrifugal unit has a small indexing hole in the back that has to capture a pin in the basket. Make sure the pin is in the hole. Good luck.

 

[Lgarcia7171]

Finally, I found the answer. Talking to the clutch manufacturer, there is another part 420281535 adjustment plate kit, that is not included on the clutch plate kit and this new clutch upgrade needs it to compensate the gap, so I ordered it, it's $60, so waiting for that and hopefully this will solve my problem. Thanks guys, I appreciate it ��

 

[safecracker]

Thank you for the updated info...

 

[Mikeyv0129]

I need help measuring the pressure plate to the disc spring. I've been trying to install my clutch for the past couple weeks, just don't understand how to measure the plate. I bought multiple rulers and still can't get the correct measurement.