2011 RT Not Starting and Display Blank, blowing 25amp Main Relay Fuse?!

[Theedge900]

After sitting for about 4 months on a battery tender I went out to start the wife's 2011 RT. Appeared to have a dead battery, so used the small jump box I carry and the lights and dash came on but it didn't have enough juice to start it either. So then I did something stupid, I used an automotive 200A jump starter/charger to try to jump start it. Pop, nothing. Disconnected after I realized my mistake with the charger. Replaced Fuse #3 (25A Main Relay). Hooked up a new battery, now the lights come on, but no dash display, and it continues to pop the 25amp Main Relay Fuse every time I turn on the ignition. I have checked every other fuse and replaced the Main Relay, nothing works.

Any ideas what to do next? Did I fry the ECU or Display panel?

And yes, I knew better than to use the automotive starter/charger on a motorcycle, but in the heat of the moment I reacted and grabbed it, now I am paying the consequences.

Thanks
Lloyd

 

[Lew L]

Sorry to hear about the Spyder problems------- 4 months?------ check to see if rodents have adjusted your wiring. A GOOD flashlight and some tupperware removal. Good luck.

Lew L

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hi Lloyd. Yeah, this is gonna leave a mark. What to do next would be to purchase one of those downloadable service manuals for 20 bucks. It will have a full wiring diagram in it. You'll need it.

What wasn't clear to me in your initial post was whether our not the ignition key was ON or OFF at the moment that you hooked up the 200a charger. If it was OFF, then, really, nothing downstream of F3 should have been connected to the electrical bus because the Main Relay would not have been closed. However, plenty of other components are receiving power with the key OFF. On the other hand, if it was ON, then the voltage spike / current surge would have been felt throughout the entire system.

We shouldn't try to fix this in an internet forum. We can't. It would be way too inefficient. But just to give you a general idea of what is downstream of F3 - starting from left to right:
- Windshield and parking brake module and switches
- Gauges
- Instrument Cluster
- Transmission Control Module
- Control power to the Power Steering Unit. Remember that the main power for the power steering motor comes from a 40a fuse - F5 - in the panel under the seat.
- Other various instruments and switches for the frunk, heated grips, etc. Plus the wiring harness itself. It's not a complete list.

And I'm sure I missed a couple of lines here or there. But essentially, a lot of the expensive stuff.

F3 is fed by another 40a fuse under the seat - F4. So, it might be some consolation to you that only F3 is blowing. Maybe not a direct short to ground, but bad enough.The ECM seems to be mostly powered from F2 via the key switch and not F3. Maybe another little relief factor.

If you decide to tackle all of this yourself, looks as though you are going to form a very intimate relationship with your Spyder. Not at all a bad thing. So, good luck with it.

 

[Joel The Biker]

Why do your lights come on? The headlights dont turn on until after the bike starts.

 

[Theedge900]

Thanks for all the info. I figured it is going to be an expensive mistake. I have one of the manuals but haven't dug too far into it yet. I did try to start the bike with the charger attached so it could have done some major damage. All the fuses under the seat are intact. I am going to start working though things a little further and see if I can figure it out.

Hi Lloyd. Yeah, this is gonna leave a mark. What to do next would be to purchase one of those downloadable service manuals for 20 bucks. It will have a full wiring diagram in it. You'll need it.

What wasn't clear to me in your initial post was whether our not the ignition key was ON or OFF at the moment that you hooked up the 200a charger. If it was OFF, then, really, nothing downstream of F3 should have been connected to the electrical bus because the Main Relay would not have been closed. However, plenty of other components are receiving power with the key OFF. On the other hand, if it was ON, then the voltage spike / current surge would have been felt throughout the entire system.

We shouldn't try to fix this in an internet forum. We can't. It would be way too inefficient. But just to give you a general idea of what is downstream of F3 - starting from left to right:
- Windshield and parking brake module and switches
- Gauges
- Instrument Cluster
- Transmission Control Module
- Control power to the Power Steering Unit. Remember that the main power for the power steering motor comes from a 40a fuse - F5 - in the panel under the seat.
- Other various instruments and switches for the frunk, heated grips, etc. Plus the wiring harness itself. It's not a complete list.

And I'm sure I missed a couple of lines here or there. But essentially, a lot of the expensive stuff.

F3 is fed by another 40a fuse under the seat - F4. So, it might be some consolation to you that only F3 is blowing. Maybe not a direct short to ground, but bad enough.The ECM seems to be mostly powered from F2 via the key switch and not F3. Maybe another little relief factor.

If you decide to tackle all of this yourself, looks as though you are going to form a very intimate relationship with your Spyder. Not at all a bad thing. So, good luck with it.

 

[Theedge900]

Why do your lights come on? The headlights dont turn on until after the bike starts.

Sorry, I was mistaken. The headlights are not coming on, the previous owner put a lot of accessory lights on, those are coming on, not the headlights.