2010 RT S Lumpy Idle

[Eviltwin]

I've had this bike for about a year and a half and have put probably 3-4k miles on it. It's never had what I would consider a really smooth idle, I've always chocked that up to it being a V twin. Lately though I've noticed it seems to be idling a bit rougher, I can detect a miss every 5-10 seconds when sitting at a stop light. The bike sat for a few months from Dec to about Feb after I had surgery, but I started it up and ran it hot several times during that period. I also put stabilizer in the gas for the ethanol and also have run some seafoam in the tank.

I did some searching on this site and read though posts on canisters and vacuum hoses. I checked and it doesn't look like its posted any codes. Any ideas where to start? Do these 998 engines normally idle very smoothly or are the inherently lumpy like Harleys?

Thanks in advance.

Bob

 

[PW2013STL]

I Suspect it's either, or both vacuum hoses and spark plugs and plug wires. The twins tend to go through the stock hoses and it's hard to visually see the problem. The spark plug wires from the factory are poor even when new so do yourself a favor and get the better wires and new plugs from BajaRon. You can get the silacon hoses from an auto parts store. I do not know the correct size, but a search will pull that up as others who have done this have posted the size needed.

 

[Mikey]

:agree:x1

 

[Eviltwin]

I worked on the bike today installing the heat scoops https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?105715-Air-Scoops&p=1427581#post1427581 and while I had the panels off, I looked at the vacuum hoses to see what they looked like. I pinched one and didn't see any cracking, I may still go in and replace them as well as the spark plug wires. But I also had a new air filter and figured it was time to try and install it. It was not the easiest job, and I took some pics to hopefully help anybody else who tries to do it.

The top of the airbox has to come off. Not so much to get the old filter out, but it helps to visualize where it is. It had some oil on the inside, from what I read that is normal. I cleaned it out with some paper towels. Once all the clips are loose you can lift it up a bit and then slide it out on one side. I pulled it out on the right side, which was probably the correct side as there is a piece of plastic that sticks up and would drag the underside of the insulation above it.

Once its out you can see the back side of the filter:

To get the filter out, you have to pop the three clips and then push one side forward and out, exposing the filter. You have to loosen the panel that surrounds the fog lights to give enough clearance to pull it all the way out. I dont have pics of that since I needed both hands to hold it open and pull. The top clip gets in the way, so if you can remove it completely, it gives you enough room to open the front of the housing.

Going back in you can push the new filter in but so far. At a certain point you have to use the left hand and go through the air box and push the other side in with your fingers. That takes a bit of doing but it eventually went all the way in. Then snap the 3 clips back and re-secure the panel.

Once the bike was back together, it seems to idle a bit better. Still some missing, but not as bad. The old filter didnt look that bad but might have had enough fine dirt to restrict flow. In any event I'm happy I got it done. I'll look into getting the plug wires and vac lines and will update this thread when I get them done.

 

[BajaRon]

... It had some oil on the inside, from what I read that is normal...

Normal, Yes. Right, No.

There should be no oil in your air box. It belongs in the crank case. But the crank case breather is notorious for failing to control oil migration into the air box. I highly recommend a little system that is cheap, easy to install and has worked extremely well for me all these years/miles.



If you'd like more information, let me know.

 

[Eviltwin]

Normal, Yes. Right, No.

There should be no oil in your air box. It belongs in the crank case. But the crank case breather is notorious for failing to control oil migration into the air box. I highly recommend a little system that is cheap, easy to install and has worked extremely well for me all these years/miles.

View attachment 170037

If you'd like more information, let me know.

Yes, let me know about what you have for the breather as well as the spark plug wires and vac hoses.

Thanks.

 

[BajaRon]

Yes, let me know about what you have for the breather as well as the spark plug wires and vac hoses.

Thanks.

I can give you the parts list and instructions for the breather. They are readily available and easy to obtain locally. For the vacuum hoses, just take them to an auto parts store and match them up with their bulk stock. You can get information on my ignition wire set on my banner ad page with the link below. I am still updating this page but most everything has been completed. Scroll down to the ignition wire section.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?23928-New-sponsor-here-for-Filters-amp-Helmets

You can always email me directly at [email protected] for questions.

Hope this helps.

 

[safecracker]

One other area you should check, your purge valve. If it is not working correctly it will also idle like crap. bruce

 

[BajaRon]

One other area you should check, your purge valve. If it is not working correctly it will also idle like crap. bruce

The permanant cure for the purge valve (and evap canister) is the Canister-Ectomy. A very worth-while, easy and cheap mod. Highly recommended.

 

[stevo62]

I have a 2012 rt and a few months ago it started Idling really rough , RPMs were from 900 to 1800 rpms , It sounded like it was gonna die , so I poured some Techron complete fuel system and fixed it and still running strong, just my experience on my Spyder

 

[Eviltwin]

I have a 2012 rt and a few months ago it started Idling really rough , RPMs were from 900 to 1800 rpms , It sounded like it was gonna die , so I poured some Techron complete fuel system and fixed it and still running strong, just my experience on my SpyderView attachment 170125

I might give that a try. I have put some seafoam in it, incremental improvements.