2010 RT-S IWN2RYD Mods...

[IWN2RYD]

So... How did all the dads out there spend their Fathers day eve? :2thumbs:

Well I spent mine in the Garage .

I have a pre-launch set of RT Vader Lights from Reggy @ TricLed (Man Reggy is such a great person and sponsor of our site).

So as of right this moment we have (From TricLed)...

• Rear brake/signal and 4th light
• Front fender white/red lights
• Front Vader Headlight and Foglight kit.

And cannot say enough good things about how awesome they look once on the Spyder :thumbup:hyea:.

So this post is all about the sexy factor, the post below will be the instructions/guide.

 

[IWN2RYD]

Ok.. So here we go...

This first pic it to help those know where all these 10 Plastic snap holders are (Green arrows) and the four 30mm Hex Bolts are (Red arrows). I did not take any pics of the Mirrors or side panel removal points because they are so well explained in the manual and most other instructions for aftermarket accessories do a good job on those. But for some reason many fall short on this set.

P.S. Please see post #7 for the switch portion of this install...

This one is what it looks like with the front panels all removed...

These next pics are where I ran the Ground and Power (Switched power) wires from the included TricLed switch that I installed in the dash. I tried quite a few ways and felt this route to be the safest for maintenance needs and keeping from rubbing the wires protective skin off after years of use.

This first one is the zoomed out to see it all, the next is a pair of closeups..

This one is the routing of the same two wires to show I placed them to the right of the left Headlight, to then be Splitloomed later on for protection...

At this point in the installation of the TricLed Vader kit, I show where the wires end up after installing the LED's...

And this is where all the wires come together for the first test...

1st test is a success!!!

Now for the cleanup pics and what it looks like once the wires are safely tucked away...


In this pis you will see that all the wires and connector meet up under the right front Headlight well out of the way of another maintenance needs that may come up. I even strategically placed a few zip ties to keep them in place...

The rest...

Here you can see two split looms. The lower one is the Ground wire for my Horn Relay Circuit and the Left front Fog Vader LED wires, the top one is the rest of the Vader light wires and Power/Ground from the switch itself... I took this to show we have a lot of clearance to allow everything to fully function without fear of jamming down the road. For a size reference, that is 1/2" ID Splitloom.

1st test after Cleanup...

 

[SteveMac]

Right there with you :agree:

 

[IWN2RYD]

At least you washed yours first :roflblack: Looks like fun what are you working on? :spyder2::doorag:

 

[IWN2RYD]

This is of my 12V accessory power route. In preparation for a block later, and the need for a relay setup to properly power my Stebel Air Horn.

I simply do not like the idea of adding connections to the Main Battery Contact for every 12V battery connection need, so I figure adding one 10 Gauge to the already (Three I believe) factory installed ones is more than enough.

What I did was install a 10 Gauge Power cord with fuse capacity of 50amps (Installed a 30). Then I soldered two wires, one 12 Gauge the other 14gauge together to that fuse holder. The 12Gauge will be for the power block later on and was capped off inside the loom about 12" shy of the Horn relay (In pic below) to allow ample room to solder or whatever I decide then.

I always solder and seal this solder with shrink tubing. Then I run a black wire cover for any rubbing that can happen over time.

As far as routing goes... Well this took me about an hour to decide. I tried many ways, angles and so on. And finally decided that Two Brothers actually had the best idea for this situation. Seeing that this is the 12V power wire, I was really worried about the routing by the tank. So for my peace of mind the way I routed it seems to offer the best solution for not only having access to the Fuse if needed, but fit and finish as well.

For what it is worth here you go...


This is the pic of this power route and placement of the Stebel Horn Relay. This seemed to be the best and safest placement to me...

 

[JimAlpha]

Nicely done. Looks great!

 

[IWN2RYD]

The Dash...

This post is on the Dash. On the left I installed the ISCI Ram Cooler/Holder and on the Right I installed the switch for the Vader lights that also allowed for another switch to be mounted later on.

I simply removed the two factory gauges (As the LCD dash has far more accurate set of readings) and took some of my leftover dash material from my Jeep Building days and cut a few pieces out to fill the holes for a somewhat clean look...

Here is a pic of the Power connections I used for the LEDs... What I did was use the "Switched" red wire (Lone wire not a part of the three wires on the one connector) for the main power and the center wire that plugs into the old gauges is actually the ground wire. Do I tapped into that for my ground. These are the two wires you see me running behind the left front Headlight above...

This pic shows the two wires plugged in, and that I decided to add another layer of protection with a fuse. Keep in mind (Hard to see in this photo) that I did plug straight into the red stand alone wire. I did not use the power in the black three prong unit. It is just tucked underneath it in that pic is all... Only the Ground was tapped into there... Speaking of the ground wire. In this pic you only see one ground wire connected, and we need two. One for the switch and one for the LED's connector. I did not take another pic (Thought I did but I am unable to find it :dontknow of this part of the installation, but I did add the second ground wire for the LED's at this same location. I just cut off the end and crimped the two together at this same connection...

Finished product...

 

[Phil]

Very nicely done sir!!

Sent from my iPhone7 using Tapatalk

 

[IWN2RYD]

Trunk Light

OK... This post is on installing some LED's as a trunk light.

Couple of items. I had this LED strip from somewhere. I frankly do not remember where I got it or how I came across this. The only thing I can think of is when I was building a few customized computers (Yes I go all out on those as well, for example I am running three 26" screens on this very computer and it is water cooled) or one of our members did something like this and I purchased the strip last year to do it. Anyhow, I found it in my organizing of the garage so here we are...

Up here in Washington it is cloudy 50% of the year. And when winter is here, well it stays dark pretty long and gets dark pretty fast. So looking inside the rear trunk is more like "Feeling" around in the trunk.

What I did not want was one of those semi bulky pucks that I was originally going to use.

I did play around with the placement of the LED's and felt for my needs the placement works well. It puts light all inside for our "Searching" needs, and if I need to look at my watch or a map on the side of a dark road, I now have a quick and easy light for this... Not to mention the wife and a mirror having a light seemed to have given me a gold star today :roflblack:hyea:

That said. I liked the light closest to the trunk latch side rather than the hinge side, but for only one reason. When looking inside the trunk it seemed to give a better light as the light for rummaging, but no other added benefit as described above. I even tried the sides and the lid. Nothing worked as well as where I placed it.

Also, I did not want to run yet another set of wires. SO I used an old 12v Cigarette lighter plug in, and walla... Easy on easy off light for when we need it.

A few months ago we purchased the BRP MP3 holder for the Trunk @ our dealer (LOVE IT!!!) SO I hide the wires behind it, and simply open the flap and place the 12v plug in it when not in use. This makes finding it in the dark easy cheesy...

BTW.. I do believe these are a medium Brightness. An example would be the Vader lights are low lights, and the Super Bright LED's are brighter. These fall in the middle... Perfect for this...

Here are the pics...

 

[SteveMac]

Well, lets see...
Brightsides LEDs, FenderTips, and Rear Luggage LEDs
HMT LED RRunk brake/running light
BRP Fog Lights
Correcting my Elka Shock guards per DocDoru :roflblack:
SpyderPops Belt Guard
SpyderPops LaBlock
ISCI Fan Can (combined with SpyderPops LaBlock...No HOT foot for me)
ISCI Highway Peg Brakets and modifying some boards to the ISCI risers.
ISCI Ram Mount Drink Holder on my...(next line)
Last but definitely not least,,,,ISCI Hand Brake (LOVE IT) more on that later...

Whew! I'm tired! nojoke Ready for Rydin, not Moddin' for a while!


By the way your light mods look VERY NICE!

At least you washed yours first :roflblack: Looks like fun what are you working on? :spyder2::doorag:

 

[IWN2RYD]

Nicely done. Looks great!

Thank you :2thumbs::doorag::spyder2:

 

[reggystan]

Nice!!!:thumbup: Great illustrations too!

Ok.. So here we go...

This first pic it to help those know where all these 10 Plastic snap holders are (Green arrows) and the four 30mm Hex Bolts are (Red arrows). I did not take any pics of the Mirrors or side panel removal points because they are so well explained in the manual and most other instructions for aftermarket accessories do a good job on those. But for some reason many fall short on this set.

This one is what it looks like with the front panels all removed...

These next pics are where I ran the Ground and Power (Switched power) wires from the included TricLed switch that I installed in the dash. I tried quite a few ways and felt this route to be the safest for maintenance needs and keeping from rubbing the wires protective skin off after years of use.

This first one is the zoomed out to see it all, the next is a pair of closeups..

This one is the routing of the same two wires to show I placed them to the right of the left Headlight, to then be Splitloomed later on for protection...

At this point in the installation of the TricLed Vader kit, I show where the wires end up after installing the LED's...

And this is where all the wires come together for the first test...

1st test is a success!!!

Now for the cleanup pics and what it looks like once the wires are safely tucked away...


In this pis you will see that all the wires and connector meet up under the right front Headlight well out of the way of another maintenance needs that may come up. I even strategically placed a few zip ties to keep them in place...

The rest...

Here you can see two split looms. The lower one is the Ground wire for my Horn Relay Circuit and the Left front Fog Vader LED wires, the top one is the rest of the Vader light wires and Power/Ground from the switch itself... I took this to show we have a lot of clearance to allow everything to fully function without fear of jamming down the road. For a size reference, that is 1/2" ID Splitloom.

1st test after Cleanup...

 

[IWN2RYD]

Very nicely done sir!!

Sent from my iPhone7 using Tapatalk

Thank you... :2thumbs::doorag::spyder2:

 

[SpyderWolf]

Very nicely done with great photos to help others who may want to follow your lead. :congrats:

 

[IWN2RYD]

Well, lets see...
Brightsides LEDs, FenderTips, and Rear Luggage LEDs
HMT LED RRunk brake/running light
BRP Fog Lights
Correcting my Elka Shock guards per DocDoru :roflblack:
SpyderPops Belt Guard
SpyderPops LaBlock
ISCI Fan Can (combined with SpyderPops LaBlock...No HOT foot for me)
ISCI Highway Peg Brakets and modifying some boards to the ISCI risers.
ISCI Ram Mount Drink Holder on my...(next line)
Last but definitely not least,,,,ISCI Hand Brake (LOVE IT) more on that later...

Whew! I'm tired! nojoke Ready for Rydin, not Moddin' for a while!


By the way your light mods look VERY NICE!

Wholly cow! That is an amazing amount of mods... Talk about a "New" feeling Spyder. You will be very pleased with many of those modifications hyea::2thumbs::spyder2:

 

[IWN2RYD]

Quick Update...

The TrickLed Vader Kit get a significant amount of looks. We are far more "Visual" than when not running the lights.

The easiest way to explain it is this... Before we would get double takes from other drivers because the RT is still rather alien on the road ways, now we get those same double takes that are twice the amount of time as before. Loooooong stares... :2thumbs::doorag: