2008 GS Rear Brake Caliper Piston Will not Retract fully--Need advice!!

[3Willie]

Got a brake failure code on my 2008 GS SE5 with 27,000 miles on it. Fluid a little low which should clear the code, so decided to put new brake pads on while checking everything. Front pads show almost no wear, but the rear pads needed replaced. Pulled the caliper per instructions on the website and all was well until trying to retract the piston far enough to install the new pads. Left the old pads in place when I compressed the piston with a large c clamp.

The piston will not fully retract or at least not far enough to install the new pads. Used a large c clamp to compress, then extended the piston several times to make sure it would move. Used Sil Glyde to lubricate the outer part of the piston, but it still will only retract enough to put the new pads in, but not enough to fit over the rotor. Never had a piston on any vehicle that would not compress, so need suggestions. I even opened the bleed valve a little to releave pressure, but still would not compress enough. Not anxious to buy a new rear caliper, but if needed, would appreciate vendor recommendations.

Probably the first time the rear rotor has been serviced. I am pretty easy on brakes, but need the bike for a couple of Patriot Guard missions next week.

Appreciate all quick responses!!!

 

[PW2013STL]

If the fluid has never been changed then it's way over do. This may not work, but you have nothing to lose trying it.
Put the old pads back on and the rotor back on. Then change out the brake fluid by pumping the brake pedal and with a clear tube that fits over the bleed nipple and the other end into a clear bottle (I use an empty pop bottle) open the valve closing the valve when the pedal hits bottom. Replete until you see clear brake fluid come out. Of course you need to keep filling the reservoir to prevent running it dry and allowing air into the system.

This may flush out any contamination that is causing the piston from retracting. I would do all three calibers as well.

 

[3Willie]

Will look at flushing all. At this point, just wondering if I may just need to get a new caliper. Never seen one this tight. Acts like it bottoms out about 1/4 inch before the piston is close to flush with the housing.

 

[Freddy]

You may need to disconnect the park brake mechanism and lever from the caliper to allow the piston/spindle to return fully.

 

[Chupaca]

Fluid and park.....

Open the resevouir and drain some fluid and release the park brake cable so the arm can allow the piston to retract. Especially if it has been adjusted at any point...:thumbup:

 

[Haikanko]

Doesn't the piston need to be turned in with tool???

 

[Peter Aawen]

Doesn't the piston need to be turned in with tool???

Only the 2013 on Spyders with the Brembo's do that. For all the earlier Spyders, it's a 'press-in' job! :thumbup:

 

[3Willie]

Simplest solutions are the best!!! Forgot that over the years, I had to adjust the cam mechanism on the parking brake. When I rotated the cam back to the start position, the piston retracted properly. New brake pads all the way around and will soon give it a test drive. New DOT4 brake fluid bought to flush the system, but will wait for friends assistance to flush.

Thanks again for all of the input!!!

 

[Chupaca]

Awesome...!!

Thanks for letting us know the problem has been resolved and your a happy camper once again...:clap::bowdown:

 

[BajaRon]

Simplest solutions are the best!!! Forgot that over the years, I had to adjust the cam mechanism on the parking brake. When I rotated the cam back to the start position, the piston retracted properly. New brake pads all the way around and will soon give it a test drive. New DOT4 brake fluid bought to flush the system, but will wait for friends assistance to flush.

Thanks again for all of the input!!!

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. But you came to the right conclusion. There is some confusion because the 2013+ Brembo system requires that the piston be screwed in clockwise to make room for the new pads. However, the 2008-2012 Spyders have a BRP engineered, Chinese built system that is completely different. Same issue of retracting the parking brake adjustment. Just 2 very different ways of achieving this. Glad you got this worked out.

 

[3Willie]

Not quite happy yet. Still showing the 'brake failure' code, but figure I may just have a shop do a brake flush and clear the codes at the same time. Tried several different approaches to clearing the code suggested on this website, but none worked. Thanks again for all of the helpful suggestions!!

 

[Freddy]

Perhaps you pressed the brake pedal while the key was ON. This will activate the Brake Failure warning Low Pressure switch. There's a procedure to reset it if you do some searching before I can find it.



See reply 8. You have to press VERY hard so I've read on another thread.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...!!!&highlight=low+brake+pressure+switch+reset

 

[Haikanko]

Not quite happy yet. Still showing the 'brake failure' code, but figure I may just have a shop do a brake flush and clear the codes at the same time. Tried several different approaches to clearing the code suggested on this website, but none worked. Thanks again for all of the helpful suggestions!!

The way I cleared the code is to stand on the brake pedal until you hear a second sclick - first click is the light switch - you will have to really put all your weight on it. Sounds totally crazy but worked for me.

 

[3Willie]

Midwest Sports cleared the one time brake failure code at no charge. Said it was likely due to the very worn rear brake pads. All has been good since. Thanks for all of the suggestions and input!!!

 

[Freddy]

Were you unable to clear it as suggested above? Just curious.

 

[BajaRon]

The way I cleared the code is to stand on the brake pedal until you hear a second sclick - first click is the light switch - you will have to really put all your weight on it. Sounds totally crazy but worked for me.

I've had the same problem for awhile. I tried all the other 'Fixes' which didn't work. But this one certainly did. After 11 years, I'm still learning things about my Spyder. Thanks for the info! I'm one happy camper!

 

[3Willie]

Tried all of the different fixes suggested on this thread, but did not get the code cleared until the dealer hooked it up to his computer.

 

[Haikanko]

I've had the same problem for awhile. I tried all the other 'Fixes' which didn't work. But this one certainly did. After 11 years, I'm still learning things about my Spyder. Thanks for the info! I'm one happy camper!

Its totally crazy I know but as you said it works!!!!

 

[BajaRon]

Tried all of the different fixes suggested on this thread, but did not get the code cleared until the dealer hooked it up to his computer.

If the 'Double Click' fix didn't work for you. I'd say you had a different issue triggering the error message. It sure worked slick for me!

 

[3Willie]

The mechanic said the rake failure code only occurred once and 'guessed' that it was caused by the worn pads on the rear. Can't remember if I told him I had topped off the brake fluid or not. Was pleased that they did not charge me to clear the code though.