$200 for an oil change?

[Peacekeeper6]

I'm also in the school of riding it and immediately changing the oil because of the very reason stated above in which a lot more of the particles are suspended in the oil.

I'm also in the school of do it right, or don't do it at all, but whatever "floats" your particles....erm, I mean....boat.

 

[deer30084]

Shell Rotella T6 meets JASO MA/MA2 specs so it is safe for wet clutch. $23.00 gal at Walmart. K&N oil filter with all o rings from Bajaron $19.95 and he ships fast. Won't pay the $90.00 for the oil change kit at the dealer again and certainly won't have the dealer do my oil change. I believe "if you want something done right, do it yourself." Of course, you've got to know your limitations.

 

[carbonation]

I agree with you on the first and last parts of your statement, but...
1 gallon of Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 is $23 at Amazon or WalMart...so figure about $35-40 for 6 quarts worth.
Add about $15-20 for the oil filter, o-rings, etc. (edit: I see another thread where you posted some filters for about $5 +/-, so maybe your estimate isn't that far off!)
A full kit with oil and filter and o-rings from Lamonster is $85-90, depending on 998 or 1330.

As PMK stated above, maybe if you're stockpiling when a sale is available, you can shave a few bucks here and there.

I do stockpile some if the price is right.
Currently, I could change a 1330 for right at 28.00 . BajaRon o-ring kit from eBay at 12 shipped, an Outlaw filter for 4.50, and 6 quarts of Castrol Power 1 from an AutoZone sale at 2.00 per quart.
The average Joe doesn't need to hoard oil, there are plenty of good deals every day if you look.
Grainger has Mag1 @ 4.00 a quart available and free ship for pickup. The name doesn't do justice to what's inside. A really good, under the radar oil made by a major blender that does a bunch of private labels.
WalMart recently had Quicksilver full synthetic on line at 37 for a 12 pack. That's the lubricant division of Mercury Marine: they got into powersports a while back. Made by Citgo, which BTW, is the folks that bring you Yamalube.
And every late October, early November, AutoZone closes out all the slow sellers. The mentioned Castrol was there last fall. I did get a few of those.

 

[BajaRon]

Amsoil full synthetic, Amsoil filter, labor, $90.00. Done at a shop that works on a lot of Spyders.

I do not believe that Amsoil makes an oil filter for the Spyder. I certainly cannot find one. I'd love to get that part number if you are able.

 

[BajaRon]

I'm also in the school of riding it and immediately changing the oil because of the very reason stated above in which a lot more of the particles are suspended in the oil.

I'm also in the school of do it right, or don't do it at all, but whatever "floats" your particles....erm, I mean....boat.

This is one of the big advantages of doing your own oil change. Getting the oil hot makes it flow much faster. Faster flow removes more contaminants and debris. These contaminants settle out and lay on the bottom after a relatively short time. Just idling your Spyder will not do the job. And the shop does not have the time to ride your Spyder before doing the oil change. They might not even start it up. It's just too time consuming. If the engine isn't run long enough to warm the oil, and if you don't ride your Spyder for a few miles first to agitate the oil with the gears in the transmission. You are leaving a high percentage of settled out particles just waiting to contaminate your brand new oil.

As mentioned by others, the transmission and wet clutch also run in the same engine oil. The clutch has fibrous friction plates (like brake pads that work in oil) which run up against steel plates. And, just like brake pads and rotors, they lose a little bit of material every time you engage the clutch. Granted, it isn't that much. But it tends to settle out pretty quickly when the engine is shut down. A magnetic drain plug will catch much of the ferrous materials. But it isn't going to get any of the clutch fibers or any non-ferrous materials. You can get nearly all of this material out with a run and hot drain. You are leaving most of it behind with a cold service.

It's not a matter of life and death, by any means. It's just the difference between doing it, and doing it right.

This is why the pull through oil change stations for cars/trucks are such a good deal. You drive in with hot, circulated oil and you are removing nearly all of the built up junk that has accumulated since your last change. It really is a better way to go.

 

[BajaRon]

My belly doesn't allow me to get under anything anymore. :roflblack: Tom :spyder:

For the Spyder. All that needs to go under is your head. The belly can stay somewhere else.

 

[Baron14y]

I do not believe that Amsoil makes an oil filter for the Spyder. I certainly cannot find one. I'd love to get that part number if you are able.

Apparently you are right. I will call the dealer and find out what (if?) filter he put in.:wrong:

 

[Baron14y]

Apparently you are right. I will call the dealer and find out what (if?) filter he put in.:wrong:

Dealer used a HiFlow HF556. Same one BajaRon supplies.:clap:

 

[LeftCoast]

When I was in Alaska, $350 was the oil change price. Labor rate $130 per hour.

Thats what I got quoted from a place 40 mins from where I live. The place an hour 40 away was 225, guess where I'm going....

 

[ARtraveler]

Thats what I got quoted from a place 40 mins from where I live. The place an hour 40 away was 225, guess where I'm going....

Probably the longer distance one, you want to go for a nice ryde.....right?? :roflblack:

 

[JeffandLori]

Some people like having their spyder worked on by the lawn and garden mechanic.

 

[Raprider]

Some people like having their spyder worked on by the lawn and garden mechanic.

Do you take your Spyder to Sears???
My local is Can-Am only...and I've never seen any lawn and garden equipment in the showroom.