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2 screws on left hand side cover NEED HELP

Ex-Rocket

Well-known member
I haven't messed with taking the covers off to inspect under the tupperware on my 2012 RTS and have a question about the 2 chromed screws that hold on the side cover on the left hand side of the bike. They are visible when all the covers are on and the right side also has the same 2 screws. Just how do these screws suppose to function?? They look like they go into a rubber gromet of some kind , but how are they suppose to help hold the side panel on or is it the rubber gromet that is holding it on?
 
Can't Help..!!

but have heard that there are some screws that are decorative. If you have the manual check to see which ones they are. We have an RS and there are none that are decorative. If not some one who knows for sure will chime in soon...!! :thumbup:
 
On a RT model the two screws you are referring to are decorative per say do not try to remove them. There purpose is to hold the two pins which hook into the rubber grommets which help hold the side panel on. I believe there are six torex screws which hold the side panel on as described in the manual, 2 under the mirror 2 in the air deflector, 1 under the service cover and 1 back by the seat. Again do not try to remove the two chrome screws.
 
On a RT model the two screws you are referring to are decorative per say do not try to remove them. . Again do not try to remove the two chrome screws.[/QUOTE]
:agree: They'll send a Team of RCMP down to mess with your radio settings if you so much as even TRY to put a wrench to them! :yikes:
 
Those security screws are not decorative. They hold the pin tha snap into the rubber grommets. Do not remove them! The instructions for properly removing your body panels should be in your manual. The necessary tools are under the seat, but alternate tools are prefered by some owners.
 
Those security screws are not decorative. They hold the pin tha snap into the rubber grommets. Do not remove them! The instructions for properly removing your body panels should be in your manual. The necessary tools are under the seat, but alternate tools are prefered by some owners.

You will be really unhappy if you remove them. They are tightened up at the exact angles to go into the grommets. It would be a real pain setting them up again.
Rick
 
They are similar to the tags on your pillow, remove them and you will suffer the full penalty of the law. :yikes::yikes::yikes:


Cruzr Joe
 
The reason I'm asking the question is because I took my bike to the dealership to get the 3000 mile service done which included changing the oil and filters. Well when I got home the panel on the left side didn't look right to me so I removed the lower panel which you remove to check your oil, then I pulled on the upper panel on the left side and the 2 screws that are supposed to be held in the rubber gromets just pulled right out of the gromets with hardly no effort. I walked around to the right side and pulled on that side panel and the pins didn't come out of the rubber gromets. So I think they must of damaged the pins or something on the left side. What makes matters worse is that the Spyder is over a quart low of oil. I checked that as soon as I got home with the engine at operating temp and the oil didn't even show up on the dip stick.:yikes: I'm not very happy with my dealership at the moment. I called them after I found all this out and I'm waiting for their return call to me:mad:.
 
More likely they pushed the grommets through and they are lost...or they could have even broken the pins. Force them to make it right. They don't learn a thing if you don't...and your next service could well end up the same way.
 
Quart low ???

Don't assume the oil is a quart low because it don't show on the dipstick.I'd double check the reading and if still shows low , just add a few ounces at a time. You might be surprised at how much of a difference adding just two ounces will make on the dipstick.
 
The manual says an RT with electronic shift takes 4.5 qts. of oil with both filter changed. How ever in the book they say to add 3 qts. then heat oil and check and then fill to level. My bet is they never rechecked the oil level or better yet never added the half qt.
 
The manual says an RT with electronic shift takes 4.5 qts. of oil with both filter changed. How ever in the book they say to add 3 qts. then heat oil and check and then fill to level. My bet is they never rechecked the oil level or better yet never added the half qt.

They charged me with 5 quarts of oil. 1 gallon and 1 quart= 5 quarts
 
I'm not sure when or how you checked the oil, but it is easy to misread the level. Proper procedure is have the engine at full operating temperature (hot metal and oil, not just 3-4 bars on the water gauge), run at least 30 seconds if it has been shut off in order to evacuate the sump, and screw in the dipstick all the way (after wiping clean) to check it. It is easiest to check after a ride, and I like to wait about a minute for any bubbles to subside. Failure to do any of these steps will result in a low reading...often off the stick.
 
I'm not sure when or how you checked the oil, but it is easy to misread the level. Proper procedure is have the engine at full operating temperature (hot metal and oil, not just 3-4 bars on the water gauge), run at least 30 seconds if it has been shut off in order to evacuate the sump, and screw in the dipstick all the way (after wiping clean) to check it. It is easiest to check after a ride, and I like to wait about a minute for any bubbles to subside. Failure to do any of these steps will result in a low reading...often off the stick.

This is how I checked my oil level after the dealership did my service. I drove the bike almost 40 miles, thats the distance from the dealership to my house. I bet the engine and oil was at operating temperature. I turned the engine off, got off the bike, removed the lower side panel that gives access to the oil dip stick. Unscrewed the dip stick from the oil tank, wiped off the dip stick with a clean rag, reinstalled the dip stick by screwing it all the way till it got tight, unscrewed the dip stick from the oil tank and looked at dip stick and only very bottom of dip stick had any oil on it. Am I doing it correctly so far? I even checked it 2 or 3 more times with the same procedure as above and I had the same results all 3 times. No offense, but I know how to check the oil level on a motorcycle. If I'm wrong please point out my mistakes.
 
This is how I checked my oil level after the dealership did my service. I drove the bike almost 40 miles, thats the distance from the dealership to my house. I bet the engine and oil was at operating temperature. I turned the engine off, got off the bike, removed the lower side panel that gives access to the oil dip stick. Unscrewed the dip stick from the oil tank, wiped off the dip stick with a clean rag, reinstalled the dip stick by screwing it all the way till it got tight, unscrewed the dip stick from the oil tank and looked at dip stick and only very bottom of dip stick had any oil on it. Am I doing it correctly so far? I even checked it 2 or 3 more times with the same procedure as above and I had the same results all 3 times. No offense, but I know how to check the oil level on a motorcycle. If I'm wrong please point out my mistakes.
You did it just right! It is low, but probably not as low as you think...just a few ounces. Add slowly, the Spyder isn't fond of overly full oil tanks, either...unless you like oil in your airbox. It is worse to be low, however, at least with an SE. The get a little touchy shifting when the oil is low sometimes.
 
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