14 & 15 RT's and the battery tender (battery maintainer)

[Gray Ghost]

...tells me that your battery is better-off with the new system stuffing it back full of power.

No question that the higher output of a 1330 system will recharge the battery faster. But the question was about the need (or not) for using a system to keep the battery charged when the bike is sitting. Consider the following:

The 2013 and 2014 use the same battery (21AH), the charging system on the 998 is rated at 650W, for the 1330 at 1200W. So, same size container, but fill rate is about double for the 1330.

It is common in teaching electrical theory to use water as an illustration. So let's say that our batteries are 12 oz glasses. We fill the glass representing the 998 with the tap opened half way, for the 1330 glass we open it fully.

Both systems were designed to fully charge the battery, the 1330 just gives you more amps above system needs for owner added accessories. So each glass gets filled up. At the end of our ride (assuming that we have ridden each of them far enough to ensure that the batteries are fully charged) we park the bike. Assuming that both batteries were prepared properly and that there are no added accessories or electrical problems causing a parasitic drain on the batteries, then the parasitic draw on both should be about the same (power to the computer systems that remain active).

To illustrate the parasitic drain, take both glasses outdoors and sit them in the sunlight. The evaporation is our parasitic drain.

So the question becomes, which 12 oz glass will go dry faster, the one representing the 998, or the one representing the 1330?

 

[Bob Denman]

I agree completely with your statements... :thumbup:
But that's not the point that I was addressing. :shocked:
In a perfect World; we'd all have at least a 30 mile or so ride at highway speeds, before our bikes get put to bed...
How many of us are that lucky?
Short trips, in stop & go traffic... often with handwarmers, foglights, and other electrical gizmos hooked-up.
Those are the conditions, where the alternator will show it's stuff. It'll be able to bring a battery back "from the dead", a whole lot quicker! :2thumbs:

Thus: if your riding conditions aren't allowing the magneto or alternator to charge the battery back up; the use of a Battery tender is much more than just a good idea...
But the alternator will give you more leeway, in making this decision.

 

[DrewNJ]

Again, additional poor Bob Denman information and not what the OP was asking about. However,.....Why would you feel you need "30 miles or so ride at highway speeds" to charge the battery?
Its these kinds of comments and bad information that get people all freaked out.

Maybe read, listen, and learn more....post less.

 

[Bob Denman]

There have been a lot of questions on battery maintenance lately so i thought i would throw my two cents in.

1 - Because the 14s and 15s have an alternator, a battery tender is not necessary for normal year round riding. :thumbup:

2 - If you just have to have a battery tender, here is a simple solution for you (see photo below) :chat:

View attachment 96794

in the front trunk (aka the frunk), directly below and centered between the right and left fuse boxes you will find two

T30 screws, if you remove them, the cover will come off to expose your battery.

you can add a battery tender plug to the battery and let the small connector come out of the rubber plug (boot) just below the left fuse box.

Now you just need to open your frunk (unzip the liner if you have one) and plug in your battery tender.

Hope this helps.

Cruzr Joe

Why don't you re-read what Joe posted?
Iwa simply agreeeing with, and expanding upon the points that he was trying to make.

 

[Gray Ghost]

I'm in south central Texas and during the winters here, we might have 30 consecutive days where I might not get on the Spyder. At what point (down time) would I need to consider putting on a tender to maintain the battery?

Thanks

IMHO- 30 days is on the edge. For the $20 for a tender it would be good piece of mind to be able to plug in when not in use.

He's got a 2014, with the 1200 watt alternator. This system should be able to hold him for quite a bit longer than that... :thumbup:
I used to figure two weeks for my 998... :shocked:


Vossr,
I'd try to give it a couple of weeks, and THEN plug it in... Note how long it takes for the tender to bring the battery back up to full power. If it seems to take more than an hour; that's the limit that I'd use. :thumbup:

Why don't you re-read what Joe posted?
Iwa simply agreeeing with, and expanding upon the points that he was trying to make.

Your response to DrewNJ indicated that the alternator would mean that the battery on a 1330 would last longer than a battery on a 998. Joe's original post implied that the battery on the 1330 would last longer without needing a charge. What DrewNJ have been trying to point out is that the higher output of the alternator has nothing to do with how long the battery will hold a charge.

 

[DrewNJ]

He's got a 2014, with the 1200 watt alternator. This system should be able to hold him for quite a bit longer than that... :thumbup:
I used to figure two weeks for my 998... :shocked:

:agree: But when the bike IS shut down; the battery stands a much better chance, of having a full boatload of juice in it... :thumbup:
Roger said it about the best...
The 998's charging system is adequate...
The 1330's charging system is superior!

The larger charging capability of the alternator, coupled with it's ability to deliver that charge at much lower rpms; tells me that your battery is better-off with the new system stuffing it back full of power.

:shocked:
In a perfect World; we'd all have at least a 30 mile or so ride at highway speeds, before our bikes get put to bed...
How many of us are that lucky?
Short trips, in stop & go traffic... often with handwarmers, foglights, and other electrical gizmos hooked-up.
Those are the conditions, where the alternator will show it's stuff. It'll be able to bring a battery back "from the dead", a whole lot quicker! :2thumbs:

Thus: if your riding conditions aren't allowing the magneto or alternator to charge the battery back up; the use of a Battery tender is much more than just a good idea...
But the alternator will give you more leeway, in making this decision.

Wrong Wrong Wrong...

Why don't you re-read what Joe posted?
Iwa simply agreeeing with, and expanding upon the points that he was trying to make.

I really think you need to look back and read some of your advice....

Every one of these comments is bad Bob Denman info in regards to Vossr's question about using a tender. Not Joe's install practice.
Telling Vossr, and others, that just because he has an alternator that has a larger output than the previous stators he doesn't need a tender for extended downtime and that his battery will last longer sitting idle, is just flat out BAD INFORMATION. Telling people that the new system somehow, magically, can cram more power in the same size battery?? Telling those that have the stator system need to ride around at highway speeds for 30 miles to charge their battery?? All VERY POOR information.

You can try to squirm and back peddle all you want but telling people all of this is just flat out wrong. Sheesh...:roflblack:

 

[Bob Denman]

Your response to DrewNJ indicated that the alternator would mean that the battery on a 1330 would last longer than a battery on a 998. Joe's original post implied that the battery on the 1330 would last longer without needing a charge. What DrewNJ have been trying to point out is that the higher output of the alternator has nothing to do with how long the battery will hold a charge.

Please og back, and take a look at Post #19; I think that you must have missed the one in which we pretty much were agreeing on a wise course of action.

Wrong Wrong Wrong...



I really think you need to look back and read some of your advice....

Every one of these comments is bad Bob Denman info in regards to Vossr's question about using a tender. Not Joe's install practice.
Telling Vossr, and others, that just because he has an alternator that has a larger output than the previous stators he doesn't need a tender for extended downtime and that his battery will last longer sitting idle, is just flat out BAD INFORMATION. Telling people that the new system somehow, magically, can cram more power in the same size battery?? Telling those that have the stator system need to ride around at highway speeds for 30 miles to charge their battery?? All VERY POOR information.

You can try to squirm and back peddle all you want but telling people all of this is just flat out wrong. Sheesh...:roflblack:

You also conveniently forgot about #19; not surprising, when one considers your obvious short term memory lapses...

 

[Bob Denman]

Your response to DrewNJ indicated that the alternator would mean that the battery on a 1330 would last longer than a battery on a 998. Joe's original post implied that the battery on the 1330 would last longer without needing a charge. What DrewNJ have been trying to point out is that the higher output of the alternator has nothing to do with how long the battery will hold a charge.

:shocked: Sorry; I NEVER discussed how long a battery would last... :dontknow: I wouldn't even begin to try and address that subject.

 

[DrewNJ]

He's got a 2014, with the 1200 watt alternator. This system should be able to hold him for quite a bit longer than that... :thumbup:
I used to figure two weeks for my 998... :shocked:


Vossr,
I'd try to give it a couple of weeks, and THEN plug it in... Note how long it takes for the tender to bring the battery back up to full power. If it seems to take more than an hour; that's the limit that I'd use. :thumbup:

Please og back, and take a look at Post #19; I think that you must have missed the one in which we pretty much were agreeing on a wise course of action.



You also conveniently forgot about #19; not surprising, when one considers your obvious short term memory lapses...

That #19? No, it's in there... AGAIN, posting more...reading and learning less.

The point here is, that you'd expect someone with almost 50,000 posts worth of something to say, to actually give someone good advice. And if they are wrong, have the keyboard finesse to at least admit it..
or is it spending to much time with worthless back stabbing banter?? Any other personal attack comments or shots you'd like to take?

 

[Bob Denman]

I was tempted to send you a PM about this...
But I'll do it out here in the open.
What's your problem with me? :dontknow:
Every post that you've made addressing me; has been more about personal attacks, than about trying to exchange useful ideas and the different options about the questions that have been asked in here. :banghead:
You keep bringing up post counts; why does that bother you?
I have always said that post counts aren't as important, as what is being said in those posts.
I have really tried to remain polite to you during this discourse; you haven't made it easy to do so.
I'd suggest that you lighten up, and go for a ride. :thumbup:

 

[DrewNJ]

Keep back peddling...

 

[Bob Denman]

Do you mean "Pedaling"?
Because I know that I'm not selling anything...

 

[retired1]

Time for a cold bucket of water.

 

[DrewNJ]

Joe, sorry for crapping up your thread. Its good info and fantastic that you shared this with peeps that may have questions. Hoping someone like Lamont will clean it up so the tech doesn't get lost in the banter.

Bob, my (as well as other peoples) problem with you is that you go out of your way to stir the pot, create controversy and play cheerleader when stones start to get thrown for your own amusement.
Maybe try offering up good sound advise of your own, share some personal mods, repairs, and journeys, instead of jumping on the bandwagon and playing cheerleader to controversy.

 

[DrewNJ]

Do you mean "Pedaling"?
Because I know that I'm not selling anything...

You just can't help yourself can you?...

 

[Bob Denman]

 

[DrewNJ]

Found your award!...

 

[Commander]

Thank you Joe, when I got my 2013 RTL the dealer put in the pig tail for the tender.

Just a FYI for anyone looking for a Battery Tender. At most of the MC/Spyder dealers they want $60.00 plus for the bigger unit. At Walmart they sell it for about $58.00, but if you go to Walmart online they have it for $48.00. I went to Walmart picked up the unit went to customer service showed they the Walmart online price on my phone and they gave it to me for the online price.

 

[Bob Denman]

Thanks; I'll add it to my shelf of them.
I'll make you a deal:
I'm putting you on my ignore list.
Why don't you return the favor?

That way; this place will end up being a whole lot more pleasant for everybody else. :thumbup:

 

[DrewNJ]

The bigger units have more capability and some really cool additional features. A good friend just picked one up that does 4 batteries at once, from car to lawn mower.
However, the little Jr units do a great job with these smaller power sports batteries, especially if you only have one machine.
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S