1330 oil level......

[OJ UK]

Posted in another thread by Papa Jim:

"Been reading we need to lower the oil by 1/2 qt. To the low end of the dip stick. I used a hand pump through the dip stick tube and will recheck it before we leave. My question is why didn't the factory send out a notice to all new 1330 owners if it can be harmful to the motor/trans. ? "

Anyone here know anything about this? Has it been discussed and I missed it?
Now I have to admit that although on the 998 V-Twin I regularly checked the oil...on the 1330 triple I don't.
Reason? A modern motor shouldn't need to be checked between oil changes unless it develops a visible leak.
My Street Triple revved to 14,000 rpm and I frequently hit the limiter. It used no oil between the 6000 mile oil changes.
Years ago I had an 850 Yamaha triple which was the same.
However, overfilling the oil is a whole different thing and will cause the engine to be damaged...nobody wants a blown crankshaft oil seal! :yikes:


Hmmm....my 1300th. post! Only another 60,000 to go and I'll catch Mr. Denman!

 

[Bob Denman]

It has been kicked around in the 1330 area...

This was posted back in February...

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

1330 OIL LEVEL

BRP cares posted awhile back ...that the amounts stated in the manual was in-correct and people were over-filling at OIL changes ...............However the readings on the DIPSTICK are accurate and you should use them for checking the level of OIL in the system......What Bob D. posted above is the correct FILL amount ....Mike :thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

Thanks for the clarification. :clap: :thumbup:

 

[Lamonster]

Just changed the oil on my F3 about an hour ago. I added one gal and one quart. I then let it run till I was at 4 bars on my temp and checked the oil. It was right at the add bar on the dip stick when seated. I then added about 3 oz and it came up to the middle of the stick between add and full. Hope that helps.

On an added note I did have quite a bit of shavings on the right side drain plug. I'm told that is normal for the first few oil changes.

 

[MikeT]

It has been kicked around in the 1330 area...

This was posted back in February...

Even though this has been around 9 months,and confirmed by Steve M @BRP cares, there are some BRP dealers who still have not yet got the memo. They still want to put 6 quarts of oil in a 1330. How can this be????????

 

[manxman]

Overfill

Posted in another thread by Papa Jim:

"Been reading we need to lower the oil by 1/2 qt. To the low end of the dip stick. I used a hand pump through the dip stick tube and will recheck it before we leave. My question is why didn't the factory send out a notice to all new 1330 owners if it can be harmful to the motor/trans. ? "

Anyone here know anything about this? Has it been discussed and I missed it?
Now I have to admit that although on the 998 V-Twin I regularly checked the oil...on the 1330 triple I don't.
Reason? A modern motor shouldn't need to be checked between oil changes unless it develops a visible leak.
My Street Triple revved to 14,000 rpm and I frequently hit the limiter. It used no oil between the 6000 mile oil changes.
Years ago I had an 850 Yamaha triple which was the same.
However, overfilling the oil is a whole different thing and will cause the engine to be damaged...nobody wants a blown crankshaft oil seal! :yikes:


Hmmm....my 1300th. post! Only another 60,000 to go and I'll catch Mr. Denman!

I changed oil at the 8K and put a six qt. oil pan under the machine and filled it up to 1/4" from the top ! measured it and it was six qts. and the first oil change was done by a reputable dealer. This is why I do all my own work. My dip stick reads at the fill mark when hot, when cold half of that. Reason I check when cold ? I drove a lot of Fords in the old days and you always added before you left.

 

[JayBros]

See the second and third bullets from BRPcare at this link:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?82580-Oil-Level-on. The last oil change I did the level at five even quarts was at the add mark once I'd warmed the engine to the point where the radiator fans cycled twice. I subsequently added 10 oz addditional and now the level is a bit shy of the bottom of the full mark when at operating temperature. My old brain just wasn't satisfied running around with the oil level at the add mark.

 

[ulflyer]

I simply put in 5 qts, with or without new filter, and it measures just over the top knob on the stick.

 

[Chupaca]

Capsity...

I always change the oil and refill by the dip stick. Most manuals will state the capasity and all engines retain oil when drained. Better and easier to be on the low side when refilling...:thumbup:

 

[txhood]

I emailed BRP about a month ago was told that the manual was correct for SE6-- 5.6 quarts.

 

[gypsy_100]

Starting Point

See the second and third bullets from BRPcare at this link:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?82580-Oil-Level-on. The last oil change I did the level at five even quarts was at the add mark once I'd warmed the engine to the point where the radiator fans cycled twice. I subsequently added 10 oz addditional and now the level is a bit shy of the bottom of the full mark when at operating temperature. My old brain just wasn't satisfied running around with the oil level at the add mark.

:agree: The third bullet "...A new dipstick is not necessary since the oil level in the oil tank doesn’t change, only the method of adding the initial amount before final level verification. In other words, it's easier to add more oil if you underfill than to remove excess oil if you overfill." The new fill amounts give you a good starting point. I just did my RT SM6, put in the stated 4-3/4qts and full hot (10-mile ride plus idle) it got me up to the "add" mark. It took another 1/4 qt to get me to a little under the Max mark which is where I like to be. Pretty much the same experience you just reported for your SE.

 

[MikeT]

I emailed BRP about a month ago was told that the manual was correct for SE6-- 5.6 quarts.

This certainly adds to the confusion. It's no wonder that dealers are confused.

 

[Bob Denman]

This certainly adds to the confusion. It's no wonder that dealers are confused.

:agree: That matches up with NOTHING... :shocked:

 

[SpyderCruiser]

I will make it even more confusing. I had the 3,000 mile service done a few weeks ago by my dealer. I was billed for 4 quarts of oil. Concerned, checked the oil level and it was up to the top bump on the dipstick. I believe the dealer put in 5 quarts but billed me for 4.

I was billed for $283 for an oil change. I certainly was not going back to pay for another quart of oil! Glad I can do my own oil changes from now on. That is a crazy amount of money for an oil change.

 

[robtdonna]

I feel for the non mechanically inclined owners as they are at the mercy of the dealers .

I will make it even more confusing. I had the 3,000 mile service done a few weeks ago by my dealer. I was billed for 4 quarts of oil. Concerned, checked the oil level and it was up to the top bump on the dipstick. I believe the dealer put in 5 quarts but billed me for 4.

I was billed for $283 for an oil change. I certainly was not going back to pay for another quart of oil! Glad I can do my own oil changes from now on. That is a crazy amount of money for an oil change.

 

[SpyderCruiser]

I agree

I feel for the non mechanically inclined owners as they are at the mercy of the dealers .

I do as well. Before I purchased the Spyder, I researched if the owner can retrieve codes if the need arises. This information is need for troubleshooting the engine and other issues. The Spyder is similar to the Rotax equipped Seadoo 4-tec, 4 stroke fuel injected jet ski we own. Sure enough, After 4 years and out of warranty the Ski started going into limp mode. Fortunately codes can be retrieved (like the Spyder) and was able to decode the P code as coolant temperature out of range. Replaced the sensor and have not had another issue for the past 10 years. I have a code scanner for vehicles, and have used it more on my Wife's 2001 Taurus then my OBD1 1994 Explorer.

I will not look forward if the day comes that an issue arises that Buds is need. Then I will be at the mercy of the dealer as well. But that is where this forum comes in handy. Everyone shares information. I would never purchase any type of vehicle I could not service myself, and did not have a wonderful forum like this to help. Thanks to Lamont and all of you who participate in this forum :bowdown:.

 

[Spyderhulk]

is there a video on how to change the oil on the F3-S 2016 model. I have look for it on youtube an have not found it only on the older model. I will soon be an owner of one of these machine an would like to learn as much I can to do it myself like that I have more money for accessory and less for dealer fees...

 

[gypsy_100]

I emailed BRP about a month ago was told that the manual was correct for SE6-- 5.6 quarts.

This certainly adds to the confusion. It's no wonder that dealers are confused.

:agree: That matches up with NOTHING... :shocked:

Unfortunately it does match up with something, Bob. It matches up with the original instructions for 2014 oil changes found in the owner's manual. The 2014 manual specifies adding 5.6 qts for an SE with filter change and 5.9 qts when the HCM filter is included. That manual is out-of-date and was superseded by the numbers you show above. I can't believe that the person at BRP who responded to the question was not aware of that revision. Now if you really want to get confused, look at the 2015 operator's manual. It shows the table you posted above in the oil change procedures section (page 125) and is up-to-date. However, if you go to the Technical Specifications section (page 165), it still shows the original higher numbers as the "engine oil capacity". Either BRP forgot to update the Technical Specifications OR they are saying these Tech Spec numbers correctly represent the ultimate capacity of the system. I'd like to think the latter is correct. The higher, original 2014 numbers and the 2015 Tech Spec numbers are the ultimate "engine oil capacity" numbers. But the procedure for changing oil has been revised to reflect that you do not get every last drop of oil out of the engine when you drain it. In order to avoid overfilling, start on the low side with the new numbers which are labeled in your table as "oil service quantities", then check the oil level when fully hot and bring it up as needed. As I said earlier, the new numbers are a starting point and you go from there. That's what Steve from BRP stated in his info and third bullet quoted earlier in this thread. That sounds like a good procedure to me.

To give the BRP rep the benefit of the doubt, perhaps he quickly looked at the Tech Spec numbers and wrote his reply, not realizing or taking the time to find the different, lower quantities featured in the oil change procedure section. Or he looked at a 2014 manual for a 2014 question. Either way, I think he misled the person who asked the question and should have been aware of the new oil change procedure.

Perfectly clear??

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OIL AMOUNT

Unfortunately it does match up with something, Bob. It matches up with the original instructions for 2014 oil changes found in the owner's manual. The 2014 manual specifies adding 5.6 qts for an SE with filter change and 5.9 qts when the HCM filter is included. That manual is out-of-date and was superseded by the numbers you show above. I can't believe that the person at BRP who responded to the question was not aware of that revision. Now if you really want to get confused, look at the 2015 operator's manual. It shows the table you posted above in the oil change procedures section (page 125) and is up-to-date. However, if you go to the Technical Specifications section (page 165), it still shows the original higher numbers as the "engine oil capacity". Either BRP forgot to update the Technical Specifications OR they are saying these Tech Spec numbers correctly represent the ultimate capacity of the system. I'd like to think the latter is correct. The higher, original 2014 numbers and the 2015 Tech Spec numbers are the ultimate "engine oil capacity" numbers. But the procedure for changing oil has been revised to reflect that you do not get every last drop of oil out of the engine when you drain it. In order to avoid overfilling, start on the low side with the new numbers which are labeled in your table as "oil service quantities", then check the oil level when fully hot and bring it up as needed. As I said earlier, the new numbers are a starting point and you go from there. That's what Steve from BRP stated in his info and third bullet quoted earlier in this thread. That sounds like a good procedure to me.

To give the BRP rep the benefit of the doubt, perhaps he quickly looked at the Tech Spec numbers and wrote his reply, not realizing or taking the time to find the different, lower quantities featured in the oil change procedure section. Or he looked at a 2014 manual for a 2014 question. Either way, I think he misled the person who asked the question and should have been aware of the new oil change procedure.

Perfectly clear??

..." bingo "...I was going to post pretty much the same conclusion as you so eloquently stated :yes::yes::yes::yes:.......Mike