1330 Oil Filter Cover Stuck!!

[Hawk]

I went to change my oil and the cover for the filter will not come off. I have applied so much force that the 26mm socket slips on the "nut". I started with a multi point socket (my first mistake, but it should have come off with that). I then got the low profile 6 point socket like you should have and tried that and it will slip off as well. I am a pretty strong guy and for the life of me I cannot get it off. Yes, I am turning to the left, lol. I am probably gonna have to JB Weld the socket to the top of the cover so it will not slip. I already have another one on order. I wonder if anyone else has seen this??

 

[UtahPete]

It can be a bugger to remove, depending on who last wrenched on it.

The socket should be a 6-point; anything with more and smaller bearing surfaces will slip. Try a combination wrench or even a crescent wrench if you don't have a 6-point socket.

Otherwise I suggest a slip-joint or monkey wrench or even vice-grips.. Also, squirt WD-40 and try tapping on it at the threads with a mallet as you're turning it.

Good luck.

 

[JayBros]

Never experienced that in eight DIY oil changes and two by dealership on my Spyder; have always used a six point socket with 3/8 drive ratchet. FWIW, the torque spec on the filter cover is 18 lbft +/- 2 lbft. Whether or not you use a torque wrench is your business, but you should always ensure the threads on the cap and canister are well lubricated as is the large O-ring.

 

[Gwolf]

Never had the problem myself. I just unscrew it with Channel Lock pliers. If this is going to become a problem in the future, it might be an opportunity for one of the advertises to come up with a cover that has a heavy duty nut welded on top of it.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Used an old flat spanner wrench from a water filter that just happens to be the same size. Great for getting into tight spots.

 

[Hawk]

I finally was able to get it off with Vise Grips. It was on there. Getting the new cover in the next day. I went ahead and order the Gold Plugs for the motor and trans as well to make the next one easier. Will wait on them before putting the oil back in. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Have you checked the THREADS to see if there was any CROSS-THREADING . I have noticed that the FINE plastic threads are not at all smooth and even with a Rachet and socket it was surprisingly difficult to get off ..... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Hawk]

I just took it off and then screwed it back in a little to keep the dust out till I get back to it. I looked at it and it seemed fine, but I literally spent about 2 mins on it. I will dig further in once I get all the parts. I will be putting oil not only on the O ring, but on the threads as well.

 

[larryd]

I just took it off and then screwed it back in a little to keep the dust out till I get back to it. I looked at it and it seemed fine, but I literally spent about 2 mins on it. I will dig further in once I get all the parts. I will be putting oil not only on the O ring, but on the threads as well.

Oil on the O-ring may not be a good idea...Oil causes most O-ring to expand, thus making the cap tighter...There's special "Silicone O-ring Lube" for that purpose...Vegetable Oil also works well for most O-rings...larryd

 

[Hawk]

This is a Ryker video, but Can-Am recommends using oil on the o-ring. But it is a Ryker and not a Spyder, but still should be the same.
https://youtu.be/fa7DM2l3eRo?t=139

 

[JayBros]

The '14 service manual does not address oiling or not oiling O-rings; just says to replace. I doubt there's any risk whatsoever to oiling or not oiling or BRP would have addressed it. This thread is the first I've seen about a problem with the filter canister cap. As a kid working in a gas station during the fifties I changed oil in a lot of vehicles with canister filters, both American and foreign, and we always oiled the canister cap sealing gasket or O-ring.

 

[2dogs]

I finally was able to get it off with Vise Grips. It was on there. Getting the new cover in the next day. I went ahead and order the Gold Plugs for the motor and trans as well to make the next one easier. Will wait on them before putting the oil back in. Thanks for the suggestions.

When you get those Gold Plugs (good purchase) "DON'T" over tighten those puppies or you'll strip out the threads in the engine case. There's a couple of posts on this site about people who did that. Check it out, but I think 14 pounds is torque speck for those plugs.