12V Source

[quickster47]

12V Source???

I am in the process of replacing my analog temperature gauge with a VDO analog clock and need a constant 12 volt source. Is there a 12 volt source in the dash area that is always on or will I need to route a wire all the way from the battery?

Thanks much for the help.

Carl

 

[Bob Denman]

Why not catch either Scotty or Sparks with a PM?
(Nancy's Toy, or Rattigan_Roger)

 

[Bob Denman]

I just KNEW you'd come rescue us! :shocked: I didn't have any answer; I just knew who would! :thumbup:

 

[quickster47]

The closest to the dash 12V constant source I know of is the wiring for the (optional) 12V Frunk receptacle.
If yours isn't so equipped the wires can be found behind the frunk. The rubber boot is pre-installed so it's easy to find)

Otherwise, I would simply run a fused wire from the battery.

EDIT:
There probably is a constant 12V wire going to the cluster but I wouldn't mess with it.

Thanks Roger for the input. I'll look for the frunk wires but if they are not there I'll just run a fused wire from the battery. :thumbup:

And Bob, thanks for the indirect help. :yes:

Carl

 

[GeoffCee]

I am in the process of replacing my analog temperature gauge with a VDO analog clock and need a constant 12 volt source. Is there a 12 volt source in the dash area that is always on or will I need to route a wire all the way from the battery?

One of the 2 wires from the horn push is permanently live and easy to find and get to. It is blue/beige in color and you can locate it easily enough on the left side of the trike -- the attached photo will help you to see where it is. The 2 blue Positap connectors in the photo are connected to the horn wires just before they enter an in-line plug. The second wire from the horn is green/grey and goes to earth.

Thinking about it, I suppose your clock needs to be earthed in which case you could copy this feed exactly as I have done and run a power and earth to your clock from here, under the headlight to the rear of the dash. Just a word of caution: take care not to accidentally earth the permanently live wire. :thumbup:

Don't be confused by the colors of the wires (red and black) going to the relay, that was my choice of wire!

 

[quickster47]

GeoffCee, that is another great idea. Think I'll take a look today for those wires.

Thanks much.

Carl

 

[jerpinoy]

:agree: to thread before me . Make sure you install inline fuse:yes::yes:

 

[Hberninger]

The closest to the dash 12V constant source I know of is the wiring for the (optional) 12V Frunk receptacle.
If yours isn't so equipped the wires can be found behind the frunk. The rubber boot is pre-installed so it's easy to find)

Otherwise, I would simply run a fused wire from the battery.

EDIT:
There probably is a constant 12V wire going to the cluster but I wouldn't mess with it.

I have a 2012 RT. if the wires are there for an optional 12v outlet in the Frunk, how difficult an installation is that? Does it require major Tupperware removal? I would love to have an outlet up front, but am not into major mechanical mods.

Thanks, Bernie

 

[scooterexpress]

i had a cig plug put into my glovebox mechanic had no problems with it (always live wire) now i don't know what he tapped into there. had installed right up near the top closest to the steering seem liked the only good flat surface.

 

[NancysToy]

I have a 2012 RT. if the wires are there for an optional 12v outlet in the Frunk, how difficult an installation is that? Does it require major Tupperware removal? I would love to have an outlet up front, but am not into major mechanical mods.

Thanks, Bernie

The 2010s had a harness for the extra outlet in front. I have not found one on my 2011, so I'm not sure yours will have one either. In any case, it is not readily accessible unless the trunk is removed, so an alternate source is a good idea.

 

[eddieshep999]

Ref the 12V Power source

The problem you find is once you connect 1 item e.g. additional Power socket you then think of others to add
e.g. Running lights, Power to gauges if you replace the existing Fuel and Temp gauge with Voltmeter etc
In the end the best solution is to run another fuse box as this will only need 1 set of wires from the battery without have to run several wires from the battery to each accessory as these wires will come off the new fuse box

I have done this see my thread

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...u-identify-these-brackets&p=366988#post366988

The fuse box I used had 3 main wires into 1 - live 1 - earth 1- switched live
The fuse box also had a relay built in - the outlets could be switched to give either
Perm live or Switced live and can be altered just by re-positioning the fuses

Hope this helps

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK