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120W driving lights, Amazon Prime might have limited time

Mounting

How and where are you thinking about mounting them? As my eyes get older, they don't seem to see as well. My RT-S is just not giving me the illumination that I'd like. I would think on the A-arms would be the easiest, but road vibes might be a concern. The bodywork on the RTs don't leave a lot of options. Let us know how well they work and where you mount your on/off switch.

Coke
 
A Arms work

I rode this past weekend with another MNSL Ryder who had mounted similar lights to his upper A Arms. I knew when Patrick was behind me that's for sure.
I asked him and he was VERY happy with the additional light at night. Didn't mention getting any tickets either.
 
I have a similar set mounted on my "A" arms. They have a separate switch to keep them off when I want only my stock high beams on. In addition, they are wired so they can only come on if the stock high beams are on. That way, when I dim the high beams, the auxiliary lights go off also. Makes it much easier for on-coming traffic.

Keep in mind, those things are really illegal for road use. I only use them on the country roads.

Also, I do know I don't really have high beams because of the shutter system. It was just easier to explain the concept that way.:coffee:
 
I HOPE that they are 120 watts for the pair because even an additional 10 amps might tax your charging system.
An additional 20 amps might sap your battery quickly or draw some smoke. :shocked:
 
Grandpot said:
I have a similar set mounted on my "A" arms. They have a separate switch to keep them off when I want only my stock high beams on. In addition, they are wired so they can only come on if the stock high beams are on. That way, when I dim the high beams, the auxiliary lights go off also. Makes it much easier for on-coming traffic.

Keep in mind, those things are really illegal for road use. I only use them on the country roads.

Also, I do know I don't really have high beams because of the shutter system. It was just easier to explain the concept that way.:coffee:
Click to expand...

GREAT IDEA! That's actually the best explanation for how to have Long Distance extra driving lights wired.
Did you post your wiring diagram or process when you did that. What fuse/circuit are they triggered from etc. Using an added relay or what?
 
As for being illegal, I have similar now, they are on a separate switch, but I use them all of the time, many police have passed me and never an issue. I do have them pointed slightly down, in WA that makes a difference according to my understanding of what I read. I'm thinking that as long as they are not blinding on-coming cars, the cop would rather that you be seen than not and picking you off the pavement down the road.
 
pitzerwm said:
As for being illegal, I have similar now, they are on a separate switch, but I use them all of the time, many police have passed me and never an issue. I do have them pointed slightly down, in WA that makes a difference according to my understanding of what I read. I'm thinking that as long as they are not blinding on-coming cars, the cop would rather that you be seen than not and picking you off the pavement down the road.
Click to expand...
If they are on the A-arms pointed slightly downward I don't see how they can throw light far down the road for night driving. You will surely be seen though!
 
DGoebel said:
GREAT IDEA! That's actually the best explanation for how to have Long Distance extra driving lights wired.
Did you post your wiring diagram or process when you did that. What fuse/circuit are they triggered from etc. Using an added relay or what?
Click to expand...

I'm on the road now and will be gone in a couple of days. I'll post the details then.
 
I have very similar ones from Rigid industries. They are awesome they are brighter than my Led head lights and Led fog lights put together.
 
Easy Rider said:
I HOPE that they are 120 watts for the pair because even an additional 10 amps might tax your charging system.
An additional 20 amps might sap your battery quickly or draw some smoke. :shocked:
Click to expand...

He's got a 1200 watt alternator: he'd be okay with them...



… if you discount the fact that they're probably not legal for usage on the street. :banghead:
 
Wiring

DGoebel said:
GREAT IDEA! That's actually the best explanation for how to have Long Distance extra driving lights wired.
Did you post your wiring diagram or process when you did that. What fuse/circuit are they triggered from etc. Using an added relay or what?
Click to expand...

First, my bike is a 2011 RT-S, your wiring may be different. I tapped into the GY-18 wire that operates the headlight shutter to get 12V. This assures you that the auxiliary lights will come on and off with the high/low beam switch. You can get to the GY-18 wire right behind the right headlight housing. That tap now goes to a switch that I put into the blank center position on the dash switch bank. This switch will allow you to keep the auxiliary lights off when you don't want them. The wire coming out of the switch now goes directly to the auxiliary lights. That's all there is to it.

My auxiliary lights will light up the night on my South Carolina and Georgia back roads. They do not draw enough current to warrant a separate relay. I've used them for three years with no problems. Just be prudent when and where you use them.
 
Grandpot, just the kind of details I needed, I bet the GY-18 is the same on my '13, but if not I think I can find the correct one.
 
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