12 Volt Battery - System Overload message... Any ideas on how to fix/clear this?

[PDXRTL]

Hoping for some quick help so I can get on the road for a long trip.

With all the posts about problem batteries with the 2024 RTs, I decided to put in a NOCO NLP20. Did that Wednesday evening. Spyder started fine after doing so.

All packed up and ready to go, as I'm backing out of the garage this morning, I see this:


I've restarted a couple times with no luck in clearing it.

Any ideas how I can get on my way? Other than reinstalling the old battery?

 

[EdMat]

Did you charge the battery to full capacity before installing it?

 

[PDXRTL]

I did not since things I read indicate that the NOCO comes fully charged.

I did get to the fault codes and see:
P0562 12V Battery - Low Voltage (which doesn't seen ti match with the initial overload message shown above)
U0155 - Loss of Communication with Cluster (which I recognize as the normal battery problem message)

That puts me in limp mode correct? So I won't be able to cruise at freeway speed to charge the battery?

What are my options here?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I did not since things I read indicate that the NOCO comes fully charged.

I did get to the fault codes and see:
P0562 12V Battery - Low Voltage (which doesn't seen ti match with the initial overload message shown above)
U0155 - Loss of Communication with Cluster (which I recognize as the normal battery problem message)

That puts me in limp mode correct? So I won't be able to cruise at freeway speed to charge the battery?

What are my options here?

To charge a NOCO NLP20 you need to have Charger/MAINTAINER compatible with that type of battery. I recently bought the same battery and also bought the NLP - 1 amp maintainer (amazon had the lowest price) .... This maintainer will work with most if not all types of batteries .... Good luck ....Mike :thumbup:

Ps: my NOCO needed 3 hrs. on the maintainer to be FULLY charged...

 

[EdMat]

No need for freeway speed to charge as it has an alternator with a fairly high output.

Are you sure the cables are tight? The only other thing I can think of is did the cables get reversed for a split-second during install?

 

[PDXRTL]

Appears I've just been stupid and thought a battery that starts a vehicle (as my new one did) would be enough and once I got on the road it would fully charge it.

Apparently Spyders don't work that way since it won't let you go with a low charge in the first place.

So now I'm already an hour late getting on the road and appears I can either go get a lithium charger and wait a few hours for that to do its thing or re-install the old battery and hope I don't have any problems with it on the trip. Dang. Either one blows up my first day

So lesson learned, with a Spyder, always charge a new battery to full before trying to use it.

 

[PMK]

Honestly, make it easy on yourself. Troubleshoot by reinstalling the previous battery.
Start it and verify the faults clear.

If the faults remain, you get to dig further, and my next step would be verifying the alternator output by measuring voltage at the battery terminals with engine running.

Know of a couple instances of the alternator drive coupling not having adequate ability to hold the torque required to properly spin the alternator. Dead batteries and stranded happened since the alternator could not charge the battery.

Did you recently accomplish an oil change? What oil did you use if recently changed. Some oils are a bit to slippery when the drive coupling is not set correctly.

Hope you get it resolved.

 

[PDXRTL]

Are you sure the cables are tight? The only other thing i can think of is did the cables get reversed for a split-second during install?

Yes, I did. Doing a test fit to figure out what spacers I needed, there was a momentary connection which caused the horn to honk alerting me that something was wrong.

 

[BajaRon]

You don't need a special charger for a lithium battery. A standard charger will get it up over 80%. You do need a special charger to get it to 100%. But 80% will do just fine, and a lithium battery will last longer if charged only to 80%. Some have a limiter built in to keep max charge at 80% for this reason.

The one thing you must not do is use a pulse charger (Usually indicated as a Desulfinate process). This will destroy a lithium battery. But this is always clearly marked on chargers that have this feature.

You should always charge a battery before install. Always....

 

[PDXRTL]

You should always charge a battery before install. Always....

Just want to be sure everybody read BajaRon's comment. I know. It should be common sense. Don't try to think your way around it like I did.

Yes, it is true the Noco comes charged. And yes, it did start my Spyder multiple times. But it doesn't have enough of a charge to make the Spyder happy. And in my case, after those multiple starts, it no longer has enough power (reminder of other comments about LI batteries - they don't go through a slow cranking phase as they are dying. They work until they don't. It is one or the other).

Just charge a new battery before using it!!!! Lesson learned.

And thanks for the advice that a regular charger such (as a common Battery Tender I hope) will work. I've got that connected now since I want to try to stick with the Noco for my trip rather than taking a chance on the stock Haijiu.

 

[EdMat]

Yes, I did. Doing a test fit to figure out what spacers I needed, there was a momentary connection which caused the horn to honk alerting me that something was wrong.

That is most likely the problem. Can't look it up right now while at work but maybe PMK or BajaRon can help out. Can't remember if there is a fusible link in the system between the alternator and battery or if it might have taken out a Diode.

 

[PDXRTL]

Ran out and bought a Noco Genuis 5 charger so that:

A. I didn't run into any possible problems from using my Battery Tender on a Lithium battery; and

B. it would charge quickly.

Which it did. I'm up to 100%. Bike is starting. No error messages on the main screen. Only the U0155 remains in the Fault Codes but from what I see that will be around until ACP is released.

Fortunately, in case something else pops up, there are three On-Road dealers south of me, two reasonably close to my route and one that I'll pass by tomorrow.

Thanks to all for the help. I can't believe I took the step to reduce risk by replacing the battery but didn't take the step to do the proper charging before installing. Even reasonably smart people can make bad decisions.

 

[WRCLVR]

Yah the U0155 code will be around until the firmware update that comes with ACP update/install which may be several more months.

 

[PDXRTL]

The saga continues. I got several miles down the interstate and the bike died on me. I think the charger lied about being 100%. Called Roadside Assistance. Hauled me to the dealer. Installed the old Haijiu battery. Started fine. Codes, other than the U0155 cleared. Tech came out and checked and said the bike would let me know loud and clear if the bike wasn't charging. It didn't. Battery gauge showed 12.4 so he said I'm good to go. Got home and saw that drop a couple points while waiting for the garage door to open. Rode around the block and it went back to 12.4. Pulled into garage. Got the low battery warning again. Headed back to the dealer to get a Yuasa battery. Fully charge it. And give it a try.

To be continued.

 

[PMK]

Was 12.4 volts engine running or batteries static charge?
While running you should see over 13.5 volts.
Even static charge on a battery is typically well above 12 volts.

Hopefully you get it resolved, but does sound like a slipping alternator coupling, but could also be a failing low output alternator.

 

[PDXRTL]

And here's the continuation. Dealer gave me a new PowerSonic AGM battery to replace the Haiju. Confirmed what I thought, that even 12.4 was not charging, just showing battery power. Suggested I check the connections on the big fuse that is just to the right of the battery (looking from the front). They were tight. But the fuse is blown. I'm sure it happened when I had that momentary reversal of the power posts when I was test fitting the battery.

So, I'll go first thing tomorrow to get another fuse. Haven't decided which battery to install. Would like to go back to the Noco since that seems to be a favorite here. I'm sure it was fully charged, but just drained by my riding for several miles while there was no charging coming from the bike. Question is, could I have damaged it by doing that such that I can't trust it going forward?

Since the fuse was the issue, I doubt the dealer can show Can-Am that the Haiju was bad and should be covered under warranty. So they may want the PowerSource battery back.

Which leaves me with the Haiju that has worked fine for 2400 miles so far, but is a failure coming on it?

So many questions. Tired body and brain from a long day.

 

[EdMat]

Well, I guess the fuse was the fusible link I asked about. Put the NOCO back in if you want to, just make sure that there can't be a chance of a temporary reverse polarity.

 

[PMK]

Once you resolve the electrical issue, my opinion is reinstall the Noco.

Also, when you pick up the fuse, get plastic tape, or adequate size rubber hose and insulate the positive battery lead until you attach it. Be extra cautious installing the battery hold down. Be absolutely certain to not short the battery on that.

Regardless, once you believe it is fixed and operating correctly, check static and running battery voltage. Obviously the running voltage should be noticeably more.

 

[PDXRTL]

Again, thank you for all the help to resolve my self inflicted issue.

None of the dealers in town have the fuse. Closest one is allegedly in TX or GA. Ordered one from my dealer and they say backordered until late July.

Did some research and decided to head to Autozone to get an alternate 80A fuse. Of course it doesn't fit where it is supposed to go (too long and too tall) but I bolted it together and taped it up as well as in place.

Reinstalled the Noco. Taped over the tabs on the hold down clamp to be sure they can't make an accidental short between the battery posts.

Starts fine. No fault codes. Battery charging meter on the dash shows 14.5 or so (I don't remember the exact number - but definitely up in the mid 14 range).

So, getting things together and heading south. Unfortunately, due to the late start, it will just be an interstate run down I-5. But that gets me where I was supposed to be had I left yesterday on a much more entertaining route so I'll be back on track.

Recapping some of the lessons learned for those who follow:

1. Always fully charge a new battery before installing.

2. Cover your battery cable ends while removing/installing the battery. They are short and stiff and do not tuck away easily so they are prone to be in the way and can reconnect when you don't want them to.

3. Even when test fitting a battery, be sure you've got it oriented correctly.

 

[K80Shooter]

@PDXRTL, Just wondering, before you installed the noco battery did you modify the two tabs on the hold down bracket?

If not then you really need to. I just laid mine onto my vise and took a hammer and flattened them out. I'm not sure what others have done or if they did anything.

Also, charge the noco battery overnight. The noco charger will cut down to maintenace mode when it is charged. They claim that it can be left on 24/7 with no harm at all to the battery.