-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
12,000 service
- Thread starter skuter
- Start date
Bob Denman
New member
They used to suggest checking the valve clearances at 12,000 miles.
That "requirement" has been relaxed in recent time; but it still will need to eventually be checked...
That "requirement" has been relaxed in recent time; but it still will need to eventually be checked...
oldguyinTX
New member
That major service for the 998 engine is actually 14K. BRP specs are to adjust the valves, which means removing the airbox, which takes forever, removing the valve covers and gaskets & replacing the gaskets. Most folks skip the valve adjustment, as it has been found to not necessarily need to be done. Also involves changing the plugs and wires, along with a bunch of other more minor stuff. As you may expect, a LOT of Tupperware has to be removed for this, and that adds to the time. Still, $1600 bucks is really way high. Folks here on SL have gotten it done for half that or less. I got really lucky in that I had it done while my RT was in for the big recall, and they already had it torn apart & it cost me $198.00. I also had them install BajaRon's (he is a site sponsor and a great guy) plugs and wires, since they were going to be changed anyway.
I don't know, someone else here might, if BRP has a flat rate schedule for this service, which would have to be specific to each model. A flat rate is for time, not labor, so prices vary according to what a specific dealer charges per hour. I honestly don't know how long the service takes, but as a hypothetical, say it takes 4 hours and the labor rate is $100/hr, then you are looking at $400.00 plus parts, "shop supplies", whatever that is, and tax. Still gonna be way less than what you were quoted. You might Email BRP and ask them how long the service should take, then find out what the dealer's hourly labor rate is. You can look up parts needed on BRP's site to get prices based on the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual.
Good luck.
I don't know, someone else here might, if BRP has a flat rate schedule for this service, which would have to be specific to each model. A flat rate is for time, not labor, so prices vary according to what a specific dealer charges per hour. I honestly don't know how long the service takes, but as a hypothetical, say it takes 4 hours and the labor rate is $100/hr, then you are looking at $400.00 plus parts, "shop supplies", whatever that is, and tax. Still gonna be way less than what you were quoted. You might Email BRP and ask them how long the service should take, then find out what the dealer's hourly labor rate is. You can look up parts needed on BRP's site to get prices based on the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual.
Good luck.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Which one - Johnny K's or Powersports of Cleveland?
BTW - I do have the updated maintenance schedule in PDF format. But it's a tad too big and I can't upload it as an attachment. The site won't let me. So, if you PM me with your email I can get it to you that way if you want one.
Last edited:
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
RE: Valve check service. Suggested now at 14K and not 12K. $1600 quoted is very high--my dealer charges $800 or so.
Here's the deal.
My 2008 was given a valve check service at 14K: I spent my $800 and it did NOT need any adjustment.
My 2010 was checked out at 28K: I spent my $800 and it did NOT need any adjustment.
Further valve checks will be done at my discretion. Not at recommended. My last 998 engine (the 2011) will not see any valve checks until at least 56K and I may let that pass unless I feel the need.
The 1330 triples no longer require a valve check.
There are shady dealers out there that may charge you for the service and not even put a wrench to it, knowing that the requirement is mostly unneeded. I would recommend caution when dealing with the people you mentioned.
Here's the deal.
My 2008 was given a valve check service at 14K: I spent my $800 and it did NOT need any adjustment.
My 2010 was checked out at 28K: I spent my $800 and it did NOT need any adjustment.
Further valve checks will be done at my discretion. Not at recommended. My last 998 engine (the 2011) will not see any valve checks until at least 56K and I may let that pass unless I feel the need.
The 1330 triples no longer require a valve check.
There are shady dealers out there that may charge you for the service and not even put a wrench to it, knowing that the requirement is mostly unneeded. I would recommend caution when dealing with the people you mentioned.
Last edited:
spyderCodes
Member
I recently had a glorious two week adventure checking the valves of my 998 at 36K miles
Boy was it fun.
I ordered the wrong gaskets at $44.00 but actually BRP doesn't recommend the cover gaskets be changed. They repeatedly warn not to damage them when you are removing the cover.
Midway in the process $1600 would have looked like a deal.
The valves were all within spec but if the adjustment procedure wasn't such a nightmare I would have loosened one exhaust valve.
To answer the question I can see why the cost is high.
However, $1600 is roughly 6% of value which seems kind of high for a single maintenance
Boy was it fun.
I ordered the wrong gaskets at $44.00 but actually BRP doesn't recommend the cover gaskets be changed. They repeatedly warn not to damage them when you are removing the cover.
Midway in the process $1600 would have looked like a deal.
The valves were all within spec but if the adjustment procedure wasn't such a nightmare I would have loosened one exhaust valve.
To answer the question I can see why the cost is high.
However, $1600 is roughly 6% of value which seems kind of high for a single maintenance
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Speaking of valve gaskets. When the valve check was done on the 2010, the mechanic failed to install new gaskets. The service was performed near the "end" of the riding season. During the winter sleep, the :ani29: started to leak oil. Back to the dealer in Spring and they had to re-do the valve check service--on their dime. And...they usually did not botch any service.
Sarge707
Active member
My 2012 RT with 14,900 miles is Not getting a valve adjustment while I own it- My 09GS Had 35,000 miles when I traded it in-Ran Great- and never had an adjustment.
Some NOT All dealers will charge you for an adjustment and Never do anything? My Spyders "Never":yikes: had a dealer service and were ALL serviced under warranty if something went wrong. nojoke
Bob Denman
New member
I guess that it comes down to something like this:
Yes; they say that you should have the valve clearances checked at 14,000 miles.
I cannot recall anyone ever having to actually make an adjustment at that time...
Keeping mind that you've got a set of ears, and are capable of noticing any change in the performance or sound of the engine: let it go until it either starts sounding and acting "different" :shocked:, or you just have gotten nervous enough to make it worth the cost... :thumbup:
Yes; they say that you should have the valve clearances checked at 14,000 miles.
I cannot recall anyone ever having to actually make an adjustment at that time...
Keeping mind that you've got a set of ears, and are capable of noticing any change in the performance or sound of the engine: let it go until it either starts sounding and acting "different" :shocked:, or you just have gotten nervous enough to make it worth the cost... :thumbup:
spyderCodes
Member
Bob, I really hate to do this, but I think you could be a tad bit in the weeds on this one.
In a high compression high rev engine by the time you'd notice a difference I think the exhaust valves & seats might be pretty crispy.
JMHO
Bob Denman
New member
That is entirely possible. :shocked: But I do believe that as the valves started to move "out of spec"; you'd have lots of time to notice that it wasn't quite running as crisply as it had been...:thumbup:It's not like flipping a light switch; it's more like slowly twisting a dimmer switch.
(I think!)
Oh! I had a question: Do they tend to "Wear tight"; or "Wear Loose"?
They wear "tight", and you'd never be able to hear a valve slightly out of spec. By the time you'd hear anything you've got bigger problems.
The most common side effect of tight valves is hard starting, but even that's not a given.
While some bikes are prone to needing routine valve adjustments, the 998 does not seem to have a history of being one of them. Every adjustment I've ever heard of has been on really high mileage motors, and even then weren't really all that out of spec.
I'm going to check mine next winter (OCD) and I'll have about 15k on it by then, but only checking because I'll have the time and have no issues doing it myself. The cost is minimal.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
The most common side effect of tight valves is hard starting, but even that's not a given.
While some bikes are prone to needing routine valve adjustments, the 998 does not seem to have a history of being one of them. Every adjustment I've ever heard of has been on really high mileage motors, and even then weren't really all that out of spec.
I'm going to check mine next winter (OCD) and I'll have about 15k on it by then, but only checking because I'll have the time and have no issues doing it myself. The cost is minimal.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Bob Denman
New member
Hard starting: I had heard that was a symptom... :thumbup:
Chupaca
New member
Yikes...!!
That is high. I would check around. The thing is checking them is one thing but adjusting them is the expensive part. If they are checked and are within spec's it should be cheaper. Agree they adjusted the time to check them. In my experience these shim under buckets are pretty long lasting as opposed to the shim over buckets which were as easy to check as to adjust. The shim under you need to check the gaps all of them mark that down then pull the cams out pull each bucket to find the shim and see what size it is. Then check the chart to get there correct shim and reinstall the shims buckets and cams trimming chains etc. Retime it hope no shims fell or popped out and your good you go...:hun: so if you get a bill for valve adjustment and there are no shims charged you didn't get one...:thumbup:
That is high. I would check around. The thing is checking them is one thing but adjusting them is the expensive part. If they are checked and are within spec's it should be cheaper. Agree they adjusted the time to check them. In my experience these shim under buckets are pretty long lasting as opposed to the shim over buckets which were as easy to check as to adjust. The shim under you need to check the gaps all of them mark that down then pull the cams out pull each bucket to find the shim and see what size it is. Then check the chart to get there correct shim and reinstall the shims buckets and cams trimming chains etc. Retime it hope no shims fell or popped out and your good you go...:hun: so if you get a bill for valve adjustment and there are no shims charged you didn't get one...:thumbup:
Last edited:
Similar threads
