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110 mile cold air intake review

Spydyr said:
110hp to the rear wheel already eats my rear tire. Sacrificing a battery is all a part of the thrill(Y) factor!
Click to expand...
Robert...the owner of electric jet factory has a side company called electric power products, he was working on a similar electric supercharger system that also sprayed methanol...I'll have to see if he has it available. He likes A123 batteries, A123 has the worlds fastest electric drag bike...the were on green planet the other night racing a busa. The Killacycle ridden by a guy named Pollychek(sp) made a 8.+ run at 173 mph, the Busa ridden by Connie Cohen just edged him out, but had a slower speed. Pretty amazing to NOT hear a machine make a 173mph pass. I believe they said the battery in the Killacycle could power 200 homes. Now thats a battery!
Ohhh, not good, A123 killacycle owner killed by his own machine...I'll apologize if anyone clicked on the Youtubelink, I think it's a little in appropriate on second thought. Only seen him on video, but he seemed like a decent fellow, R.I.P.
 
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bjt said:
Thanks for coming back and posting your findings BRPjunkie. I can scratch that off my 'mods to do' list.
Click to expand...
I guess BRPjunkie test is more valid than mine and Sleepman.:dontknow:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=48599&postcount=15

Bottom line is cold air intakes work, thats why they are all the rage right now. If it is not ducted into the intake it is not going to be as effective as a open air system.

Cold Air Kits

K&N AIR INTAKES, THE ULTIMATE WEAPON IN THE HORSEPOWER WARS
Most of our High-Flow Air Intakes can be purchased for less than $350. On the 2003 Ford Mustang SVT®, we actually achieved a 30 horsepower increase. Even our typical air intake gains are in the range of 8 to 16 horsepower. To send an average V-8 down the road at 55 mph, it takes about 17 horsepower. Considering this, you begin to realize just how much of a difference our intakes can make when you step on the gas. We’re proud of these intakes because after you bolt one on, you’ll know something’s different…VERY DIFFERENT! Find your car or truck's horsepower gain here!

GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR CAR OR TRUCK
Most people are aware that our High-Flow Air Filter can increase horsepower over a traditional disposable air filter. An air filter change alone however, cannot eliminate other types of air restriction built into the vehicle at the factory. These can be found in the size of the air box and the air path running from the air box to the engine. That’s where air intakes rule the road. They completely replace the factory airflow assembly including the filter, air box and air path. More and more people are discovering the monster power available from a well-engineered air intake and we sell over 200,000 air intakes every year, so go ahead and wake the sleeping giant in your car.
GUARANTEED HORSEPOWER
We will not sell an air intake that does not provide a measured increase in horsepower and torque (acceleration). Our air intakes are proven to increase horsepower and torque on a rear-wheel dynamometer (think treadmill for cars). These thoroughly engineered air intakes provide huge increases in power that a customer will definitely feel when they accelerate. See our horsepower guarantee.​
 
Lamonster said:
I guess BRPjunkie test is more valid than mine and Sleepman.:dontknow:
Click to expand...
Yours is probably very noticeable Lamonster, until I get a better airfilter I think I will wait...the dealer also wants me to bring the machine by to check the sand problem so I should wait for that too. That stock filter on there is so tiny, it may pass enough air initially, but it seems like it will clog very quickly. It's quite a bit of work getting those things out of there. I can't understand why they didn't make use of that entire airbox, I may bore a few more holes on the filter tray and either use an outside filter, or go with the kens filter and a few velocity cap filters from the holes I cut.
 
I was not dismissing the effect of a fresh air intake and encouraged everyone to try it since it is so simple. Fog lamps restrict the fresh air flow and the results should be more dramatic. Most car and truck fresh air intakes and the results cited for improved HP are because the stock route of fresh air to the airbox on cars and trucks is restricted. I was just observing the fact that in stock form, The Spyder fresh air flow to the airbox is not direct connected by only about 6" and it is likely a much more efficient air flow than most cars and trucks. I agree that completeing that connecetion will improve air delivery and I do not claim that my results are more valid than yours (which I think are real due to fog lamps) or Sleeepman's which I think he also really feels. My "butt" dyno is probably just not sensitive enough to discerne it. I welcome the discussion and hope others take up the simple mod and report that I am wrong. It will only take me 20 minutes to put it back on.
 
Zerocool said:
Stupid question...

Lamonster, you have two scoops on your :spyder: It appears only the right one is connected for airflow.

Where's the left side connected too? And do you need it?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I have mine hooked to a blower to suck out the hot air.

picture.php
 
air intake

Does this mod clean up the throttle response at all at lower RPM? It would be nice to feel a more linear throttle and lose the bottom end stutter.:pray:
 
Lamonster said:
I guess BRPjunkie test is more valid than mine and Sleepman.:dontknow:
Click to expand...


With all the other 'life issues' I have, I have to pick and choose my battles. Since his Spyder is set up pretty close to how mine is and he lives by me, I am using his experience to buy myself some time. I might look at this again in a few weeks, after the Gatlinburg trip. Of course, if you tell me that you are getting a bit better fuel economy with cold air intakes, I will be trying to buy 3" flex duct and long zip ties or large hose clamps this weekend.
 
With two Spyders in your garage, you have a unique test opportunity. Put the duct on one and line up with your wife and do a 1/4 test mile run (somewhere safe).
 
BRPjunkie said:
With two Spyders in your garage, you have a unique test opportunity. Put the duct on one and line up with your wife and do a 1/4 test mile run (somewhere safe).
Click to expand...


I don't think that will really work well. Differences in weight and throttle response, shifting patterns, etc. will probably cause more of a difference than the cold air intake will.

If you really want to add some spunk to your low end sputters - install the race airflow, O2 mod and Fuel pressure mod - it makes a huge difference.
 
boogllasti said:
I don't think that will really work well. Differences in weight and throttle response, shifting patterns, etc. will probably cause more of a difference than the cold air intake will.

If you really want to add some spunk to your low end sputters - install the race airflow, O2 mod and Fuel pressure mod - it makes a huge difference.
Click to expand...

Besides, I would beat him....:2thumbs:
 
I really wonder why BRP has not addressed the stumble most have with a remap.My sled has been done 4-5 times and it never had a stumble ,plus its a 2 stroke [Semi Direct Injection]and still has to meet emissions.:dontknow:It makes merging with traffic more of a challenge.:spyder:
 
I believe most cases of 'stumble' are actually either VSS kicking in or riding before the Rotax is up to temp. Need to wait for at least 1 bar - 2 is better or the Rotax is a dog.
 
boogllasti said:
I believe most cases of 'stumble' are actually either VSS kicking in or riding before the Rotax is up to temp. Need to wait for at least 1 bar - 2 is better or the Rotax is a dog.
Click to expand...

The only stumble that I get is exactly that. When I'm hitting the throttle too hard in a turn or when I've just started the :spyder:and it's not warmed up.
 
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